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fEARful part 13: the bad luck's done, son

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I had a 12/6 cube with the Alpha 6 that I sold to my uncle (you know the yellow one :)). Although it was really loud and great for many gigs, I prefer the 15/6 with the 18 mid. To my ears, it sounds way better with the 18. I am going to build another 12/6 cube in the future, but this time with the 18 mid for sure.
 
No love for the 12/6? I rave about mine every chance I get.

Look, here is another chance:hyper:

I built a 12/6 cube to make use of a $30 Alpha 6A and see how light and cheap a fEarful build could get. I skipped the horn too: 37lb, under $300. That's a huge band for the buck!

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The 12/6 goes everywhere, it's my first choice for anything that doesn't require huge volume or has full house sound services. It fits in the trunk of the Corolla, with room left over for the rack and bass.

Don't get me wrong, I love the 15/6/1. But they are big and a little on the heavy side. Being basically lazy, the whole idea of one trip from the car with everything is working for me. The 12/6 cube plays well with the big cabs.

I had to go for a hike through the woods and around the lodge and up stairs with the 15/6/1 last weekend, cause the 12/6 got locked in the studio. (I WAS PISSED!) Yeah, sounded great, and I gave them an earful since I had to make an extra trip, but I really missed the 12/6 cube.

Each of the 15/6/1 requires a two hand carry trip to where ever I'm going. I can grab the 12/6 with one hand and something else with the other.

The 12/6 cube is sitting on a bastard sub, TL-606, 3015LF, and CBG lowpass. An experiment that didn't really work out. (The sub needs a bigger cab, just follow the plans) I've since removed the driver and lowpass on sold the cab on.

The 12/6 cube with the alpha 6 mid would not keep up with the sub. The question is whether a 12/6 cube with the 18 Sound mid, and a Lpad bypass, might work with the sub. I really don't know.

I had a spare 6ND410 in my pile of parts so I went ahead and built a second 15/6/1 instead of the sub I'd been planning.

I don't think I'd put the more expensive mid in a 12/6. It adds quite a bit to the cost of the project and it needs an Lpad as well. To my ear, the Alpha 6 does a great job in the 12/6. Plenty bright and full range.
 
The "more expensive mid" in a 12/6 or 12/6cube is meant to be used as part of a stack that also has a 12sub or 15sub. Says so right on the website ; } ...The crossover for it has a switch that changes the padding for either occasion. The switch can also be used to make the 12/6 really "mid forward" - and that has proven useful a few times for me recently, when acoustics were really soaking up a lot of upper content and the guitars were hard to cut through.

The same switch can be used for a 15/6 - as BurningSkies will tell you - either for a stack with a 15sub, or when a high-sensitivity aggressive mid-forward sound is desired.

* * *

A Faital midrange driver I'm using in a couple of upcoming designs requires a crossover that is quite a bit different. Though it's likely to be used in them, it's not for the original fEARfuls - unless it ends up being significantly cheaper than the 18 Sound. This could happen maybe, down the road, but right now there's no significant price difference, thus no real impetus to design more crossover versions.
 
There ya go!

I'm super stoked on the 12/6 with the Alpha. But if I need more horsepower I can set it on top of a 15/6/1. I was going for cheapest, lightest build, and not thinking about, or needing to make it more flexible.

On the 15/6/1's I felt like adding a few options was well worth the money and time.

I sold an empty TL-606 this weekend and I took the 12/6 cube along when I delivered it so the guy could get a taste of fEarful. Just spreading the word.

I wasn't sure I was going to make it out of there with the 12/6, he was really impressed. And I got to hear the Acoustic Images through the cube. Super clear and defined.

My "everything must go sale" has raised a grand for a new amp. I'm taking suggestions and planning to hit Bass NW while I'm up in Seattle working the next couple weeks. I'm going to take the 12/6 cube along for testing. Anything bigger and my coworker won't fit in the car with all the tools and gear.

I'm kind of lusting after the TC-RH750, but you guys probably guessed that. It's demo time!
 
On the fEARful downloads page [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] I see plans for the 15/6, but not the 15/6/1. Are there updated plans available for this design?

Typically, will any skilled (non bass playing) woodworker know exactly what to do when/if they look at the (3) pages of plans that are downloaded off the site or, in your experience, are there questions that come up in terms of the exact details that are required?

I'm trying to determine if I should try to save some money by having my local woodworker build the cabinet, rather than paying a "certified" fEARful cabinet builder. Money is definitely an issue, but I will NOT build it myself. I guess my only savings would be in not having to have the completed cabinet or flatpack shipped, as I could buy materials local.

In the above scenario, if I purchase the pre-assembled hardware, I IMAGINE installing it is not too difficult as I'm pretty good with screws and a drill ;) Am I correct in this thinking, or does it really need to be done by a skilled "electrician" or cabinet builder?

I understand there are "cheaper" versions of the hardware. I do not want to "skimp" on parts, but price is definitely a factor. How many different options are there?

By the way, I've been waiting for about a week now to receive my login information for the fEARful forums, but nothing. Am I being investigated first by the fEARful Secret Service? :eek:
 
Singlemalt, the GK 1001RB-II not cutting it for you anymore or are you just looking for something lighter? I was at Bass NW a couple days ago and don't recall seeing the RH750 but I could be wrong. You might want to call to see what they have in stock.

Also I have lots of love for the 12/6. I use mine 95% of the time as a stand alone. I bring out the 12/sub when the need arises. I love the one handed carry. If I leave my effects at home I can do one trip and be good. Bass & cab one hand each, GK700RB-II in its carry bag with shoulder strap and I'm good.
 
Hey RASHOSS,

I have absolutely no registration authorizations waiting in the admin cue, and when I do, they get handled immediately whenever I am around.

However. If an authorization is issued to a newly registered account and the person does not visit and post at least once during the first week the account is automatically deleted, the assumption being that it's a script kiddie or spammer.
 
On the fEARful downloads page [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] I see plans for the 15/6, but not the 15/6/1. Are there updated plans available for this design?

Typically, will any skilled (non bass playing) woodworker know exactly what to do when/if they look at the (3) pages of plans that are downloaded off the site or, in your experience, are there questions that come up in terms of the exact details that are required?

I'm trying to determine if I should try to save some money by having my local woodworker build the cabinet, rather than paying a "certified" fEARful cabinet builder. Money is definitely an issue, but I will NOT build it myself. I guess my only savings would be in not having to have the completed cabinet or flatpack shipped, as I could buy materials local.

In the above scenario, if I purchase the pre-assembled hardware, I IMAGINE installing it is not too difficult as I'm pretty good with screws and a drill ;) Am I correct in this thinking, or does it really need to be done by a skilled "electrician" or cabinet builder?

I understand there are "cheaper" versions of the hardware. I do not want to "skimp" on parts, but price is definitely a factor. How many different options are there?

By the way, I've been waiting for about a week now to receive my login information for the fEARful forums, but nothing. Am I being investigated first by the fEARful Secret Service? :eek:

The fEARful security and information group (AKA fEARsec) does take a bit of time to do the proper background check to activate your account, depending upon how secure your bank's servers are.
 
Hey RASHOSS,

I have absolutely no registration authorizations waiting in the admin cue, and when I do, they get handled immediately whenever I am around.

However. If an authorization is issued to a newly registered account and the person does not visit and post at least once during the first week the account is automatically deleted, the assumption being that it's a script kiddie or spammer.

Oh, ****, I'm in! Thank you Master.
 
On the fEARful downloads page [Invalid or Expired Link Removed] I see plans for the 15/6, but not the 15/6/1. Are there updated plans available for this design?

Typically, will any skilled (non bass playing) woodworker know exactly what to do when/if they look at the (3) pages of plans that are downloaded off the site or, in your experience, are there questions that come up in terms of the exact details that are required?

I'm trying to determine if I should try to save some money by having my local woodworker build the cabinet, rather than paying a "certified" fEARful cabinet builder. Money is definitely an issue, but I will NOT build it myself. I guess my only savings would be in not having to have the completed cabinet or flatpack shipped, as I could buy materials local.

In the above scenario, if I purchase the pre-assembled hardware, I IMAGINE installing it is not too difficult as I'm pretty good with screws and a drill ;) Am I correct in this thinking, or does it really need to be done by a skilled "electrician" or cabinet builder?

I understand there are "cheaper" versions of the hardware. I do not want to "skimp" on parts, but price is definitely a factor. How many different options are there?

By the way, I've been waiting for about a week now to receive my login information for the fEARful forums, but nothing. Am I being investigated first by the fEARful Secret Service? :eek:

Hey Hoss, I had a local builder do my first fEARful. The designs were pretty self evident to him upon reading. There's a bit of leeway as to how a builder does the joinery, so you'll want to discuss that. To fit corners, the cabinet edges need a 1/4" round over with standard corners. If you choose other corners, you may need to check their specs. The reason you don't see the 1" on the plans is that its an optional piece. There is an addendum High pass for the crossover on the fEARful site and once you have the dimensions of the waveguide cut out, you should be able to get the proper sized cut out. I'm sure that at least a few builders can tell you how close to the mid you can space the waveguide.

In terms of what it took to do all of the finishing work, I did it all in my apartment. Drill, screw drivers, allen wrenches, soldering iron, etc. Nothing heavy duty and nothing that would cost you more than 15 or 20 bucks.

If you're going to free lance all your parts, remember that shipping costs will KILL you. Order from as few vendors as few times as possible.
 
The real monsters in which can make big power in a light package and actually sustain it continuously seem to be rackmount units like the Ampeg SVT 7-Pro (current revision), the Fender TB-1200, and the Carvin BX1500 and presumably the B2000 too.

The Carvin BX-1500 is actually a very high quality preamp that's super-flexible, and that's grafted onto a Invalid Link Removed. The B2000 is another style of preamp that's also pretty impressive and somewhat simpler, grafted onto a DCM power amp.

Any of these four and probably some others I've missed, are great alternatives to "separates" built from standalone preamps and high-power pro amplifiers.
 
I am about to start my first 15/6 build.
I was thinking to save weight, maximize volume, and ensure air-tightness I would go with strap handles instead of spring-loaded or deep dish.

Is that a bad idea with a 15/6? I would probably be using my kart-a-bag to move it any significant distance. If I do it, should I install them vertically or horizontally?
 
I use a strap handle on my Fender Twin, weighing in at over 80lbs...but that doesn't mean I like it. ;) The 15/6 weighs in at around 50lbs...I'd personally vote against old fashioned strap handles... I don't find them comfortable, and I always find they twist a bit depending on the angle.
 
I used strap handles on my 12/6 & 12/sub. They work great with one mounted on the top for a one hand carry. A 15/6 is only 10lbs heavier so the weight shouldn't be a problem. They are a little bigger so I'm not sure where the best place for mounting them would be though.
 
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