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fEARful part nine (9)

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Just picked up the GK 1001RBII for a steal and was wondering if anyone has wired their fEarful 3-way to utilize the 50 watt output to drive the horn. I have a feeling it might be less than optimal because the mid driver rolls off at 6k or so and the internal Xover for the GK is set at 5k, but, is there enough going on in that freq range to matter? Thanks in advance.
Ted

Singlemalt does, and it sounds great IMHO. A little EQ compensates nicely for any potential clash between the mid driver and the horn.
 
I did!

I wanted to do something with the GK 1001 rb 2 horn driver, so I installed the Eminence 1001 horn with the Dayton wave guide. Wired it with the #2 poles on a four pole speakon connectors. The horn circuit is isolated from the 15/6. Simple, clean and under $40 for the whole experiment. Quick and easy, one hole saw hole for the wave guide, two wires to a speakon jack on the control plate.

When I get around to finalizing the wiring of the cab, I'll use a four wire speakon cable ($30) to drive the 15/6/1 and daisy the other speakon jack to the 15 sub. As it stands, one speakon output on the GK (#1 poles) drives the main cab and the other speakon out (#2 poles) drives the horn

Results: It's pretty cool for under $40. My crossover Lpad has a bit less cut than most due to a small wiring error. The 6ND410 is super hot. I can EQ it into submission with the main controls of the GK and add a bit of sparkle back in with the horn. Real world, there isn't all that much going on north of 5K.

I wouldn't do it again, but I'm not sorry I did it this once. (Like a lot of things!) I've blown $40 on lots of less useful things.:rollno:

The best thing about the fEarful was the GK sounded like a whole new amp. I had no idea it would get it on like it does now.
 

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By the looks of things, mine ought to be making noise Monday.

All the woodworking has gone well. I've certainly gotten to dig shop time, and I've got more projects in mind. I'm down to gluing in the baffle and rolling on the Duratex.

I just took my time and it all worked out great. Much to my own surprise, the cabinet turned out within 1/32" of design. I've built lots of woods projects over the year, but never had one work out this accurately. I guess this getting old and patient thing does have some advantages.

As I went through the construction, the craftsmanship in Greenboy's design gift showed its face. There's a ton of little things in the stuff he's done. Offset driver. Careful bass + mid placement. Clever use of crossover and cabinet tunings. Use of cabinet size that takes advantage of current killer drivers. And so much more.

Thank you.

Jim
 
Interceptor said:
I went through the construction, the craftsmanship in Greenboy's design gift showed its face. There's a ton of little things in the stuff he's done. Offset driver. Careful bass + mid placement. Clever use of crossover and cabinet tunings. Use of cabinet size that takes advantage of current killer drivers. And so much more.

+1
 
I was pleasantly surprised at how mellow the Duratex turned out to be. No stinky fumes, easy cleanup, quick drying.

I'm just finishing up my experiments with tinting agents and blending metallic paints and clear water based poly with Duratex. I got lots of cool looking results, but managed to destroy most of them by trying one more thing.

No worries though, since all the panels on my test cab were scrap wood to begin with (thanks Mal). Eventually I'll probably just go with a natural poly finish like all my other DIY cabs have. The panels are all just screwed on and replacing them is cake. I traded masonjax for one of his small bottles of Duratex and bought two flavors of tinting agent: [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], and [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. Both are extremely concentrated and I have lots left over from the small amounts I bought. The top panel pictured probably used 1 oz of Duratex for the two coats, at most. 8-10 drops of the violet colorant to 1/2 oz of white Duratex, then rolled on with a Home Depot 9" short nap roller, which gives a really nice orange peel texture. The actual color is a shade or two darker purple than what the picture conveys. I ran out of metallic paint, but a wash of that blended in clear poly works over the Duratex really nicely.

The sides? 8-10 layers of [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], applied by q-tips, floating on layers of clear poly, which in turn is over two layers of orange Duratex. The picture can't begin to convey what this looks like in person. If you light the panels right they throw prismatic displays all over the room. Every different viewing angle yields a completely different pattern and a different set of colors. Spraying this stuff is probably the way to go really.

I'm no artist (obviously, LOL), and I had a lot of cooler stuff going on at one time or another. I stuffed one panel under the house and may try to rehab it eventually -- it was an attempt at a sunburst motif and if I had only stopped three iterations ago it would've been pretty killer. :p

Anyhow, the coloring agents were really easy to blend and are a nice option to consider. They work pretty well with clear poly too BTW.

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Charlie I think I'm having a flashback just looking at your cab. Can we get a picture of it under black light? I bet it would look great on a dimly lit stage. That is one cool cab. G&L offers metalflake paintjobs on some of there basses, now that would be a combo to have.
 
Charlie I think I'm having a flashback just looking at your cab. Can we get a picture of it under black light? I bet it would look great on a dimly lit stage. That is one cool cab. G&L offers metalflake paintjobs on some of there basses, now that would be a combo to have.

Heh, I'll take the Fifth on that. I looked into black light powder additives too. But yeah, the idea is that I practice in kind of a dark space with the dark brown paneling and I wanted something to counter that a bit. I take another stab at metalizing the top and back panels before I decide whether to bail on the whole idea. I guess I could have alternate sets of panels even, in case I ever decide to gig that top box.
 
This place -- http://www.mcphee.com -- is Archie McPhee. Their logo is actually a devil duck, and if you go for that sort of thing you really need to check this place out. They've been in business, as they brag, since 1983. One of their rubber chickens is proudly hanging by the neck in my kitchen, and has been for years -- I wore one out and am now on the second one.

Sweet! I've been to the Seattle store a few times, it's completely nuts. My friends had a band called Rubber Chicken Lollipop BTW.
 
Heh, I'll take the Fifth on that. I looked into black light powder additives too. But yeah, the idea is that I practice in kind of a dark space with the dark brown paneling and I wanted something to counter that a bit. I take another stab at metalizing the top and back panels before I decide whether to bail on the whole idea. I guess I could have alternate sets of panels even, in case I ever decide to gig that top box.

Atlantic Technologies makers of top of the line home theater speakers have removable wood grain panels so you can change out the look of the speakers for different home decors. Sounds like your on to something. Purple for the black light type of gigs, black for the jazz club. Maybe match the color of the wedding party, the list goes on. Or maybe my flashback continues and this is all for not.
 
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