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Fender Jazz Bass and Strap Locks?

#21
georgestrings said:
I prefer them because they don't stick out as much as Dunlops, and their cup-like design makes them pretty much fail-proof, as long as the post is secured in the body, and the nut is locktite'd on the strap... I have seen Dunlops fail - never seen a Schaller fail, if installed as I described...


- georgestrings
Click to expand...

Fair enough, even though I've never seen a Dunlop fail. I use both, and like Schallers exactly for the reasons you describe, but...I tend to use Dunlops these days because I can hear the metal on metal of the schallers through my amp...this was an unpleasant surprise.

I worry about the Dunlops, though. There is no plan-B should the mechanism fail. With Schallers cup-like design, if the mechanism fails, gravity is a pretty effective plan-B.
 
#23
Zooberwerx said:
You may use the the original Fender screws with Dunlop locking strap pins. The problem is that the original screw head is a bit too wide to fit within the recess. Not to worry as it requires a 5 minute fix. Simply take the Fender screw and lightly grind off a scant amount of material from the shoulder. A couple swipes with the grinder on my Dremel tool and it fits like a glove...no toothpicks, glue, etc. Don't have a Dremel? A file will work but give yourself an extra 15 minutes.

FTR, if you take a close look at the Dunlop mounting hardware, you'll see all they've done is take a fairly conventional #6 (?) screw and knock the edge down much as I've described above. Cheaters!

Riis
Click to expand...

I don't know if this is the route to go as a novice, having to drill a hole at the same angle as stock.. it doesn't have to be nearly that difficult.

If u really wanted to go all out, you could drill a shallow straplock sized hole and set the strap pin flush with the surface. InvisiLock!
 
#24
My Dad taught me long ago how to fix an enlarged hole when working with wood. First I put a little silicone caulk in the hole, then fill it with toothpicks. I break off the toothpicks flush.
The caulk acts something like a glue, but you can easily remove the screw at a later date if need be. I've used this method for years on alot of things, including guitars and it hasn't failed me yet.
 
#25
wvbass said:
Fair enough, even though I've never seen a Dunlop fail. I use both, and like Schallers exactly for the reasons you describe, but...I tend to use Dunlops these days because I can hear the metal on metal of the schallers through my amp...this was an unpleasant surprise.

I worry about the Dunlops, though. There is no plan-B should the mechanism fail. With Schallers cup-like design, if the mechanism fails, gravity is a pretty effective plan-B.
Click to expand...


In the rare instances that I've seen Dunlops fail, it was easily cured/prevented by a light oiling of the bearings once in a great while - they're pretty reliable, IME/IMO... I've only seen it a couple of times over the course of 30+ years as a gigging musician...

Agreed on the "plan B" aspect of Schallers - I like it, too... I don't pick up any of that noise thru my amps, although I can sometimes hear it unplugged - which doesn't bother me any


- georgestrings
 
#26
bass32 said:
My Dad taught me long ago how to fix an enlarged hole when working with wood. First I put a little silicone caulk in the hole, then fill it with toothpicks. I break off the toothpicks flush.
The caulk acts something like a glue, but you can easily remove the screw at a later date if need be. I've used this method for years on alot of things, including guitars and it hasn't failed me yet.
Click to expand...

Maybe so, but I think wood glue is a better choice in this situation...


- georgestrings
 
#27
celestialtrash said:
I don't know if this is the route to go as a novice, having to drill a hole at the same angle as stock.. it doesn't have to be nearly that difficult.

If u really wanted to go all out, you could drill a shallow straplock sized hole and set the strap pin flush with the surface. InvisiLock!
Click to expand...

If you re-read my post, there is no drilling necessary. We're simply grinding a bit of metal off the outer edge of the screw head.

FTR, Dunlop does offer a tapered / hourglass strap pin which is intended for flush-mounting. My late 90's Warwicks had 'em. Problem is that you could not use a conventional strap if you forgot the good strap with Dunlop strapends installed.

Riis
 
#30
Dunlops all around for me, too.

I REALLY wish I could just buy the "button" part of the Straplok (the part that bolts to the body) without the hardware that attaches to the strap. I've got a box full of the strap hardware.... I have only two or three straps I use, but I've had probably 30 basses and guitars that all got the buttons.
 
#31
M.R. Ogle said:
Dunlops all around for me, too.

I REALLY wish I could just buy the "button" part of the Straplok (the part that bolts to the body) without the hardware that attaches to the strap. I've got a box full of the strap hardware.... I have only two or three straps I use, but I've had probably 30 basses and guitars that all got the buttons.
Click to expand...

Try Stew Mac. They have the buttons for Schallers, I'd imagine they have dunlops too.
 
#32
M.R. Ogle said:
Dunlops all around for me, too.

I REALLY wish I could just buy the "button" part of the Straplok (the part that bolts to the body) without the hardware that attaches to the strap. I've got a box full of the strap hardware.... I have only two or three straps I use, but I've had probably 30 basses and guitars that all got the buttons.
Click to expand...

the fender AM STD are made by schaller:

Fender American Standard Strap Buttons (2): Shop Accessories & Other Musical Instruments | Musician's Friend
 
#35
they both work well, but i did have a '76 stingray with dunlops that failed (it went to the ground), and it was not user error. it was a brand new set and the little ball bearings in the locking mechanism were defective (wouldn't pop out fully). never had a problem once i switched to the schallers.
 
#36
Zooberwerx said:
If you re-read my post, there is no drilling necessary. We're simply grinding a bit of metal off the outer edge of the screw head.

FTR, Dunlop does offer a tapered / hourglass strap pin which is intended for flush-mounting. My late 90's Warwicks had 'em. Problem is that you could not use a conventional strap if you forgot the good strap with Dunlop strapends installed.

Riis
Click to expand...

I was referring to Engine207's reply to my first post. (Filling the hole with a dowel and redrilling a new hole.)
 

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