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Fender Mustang Club

I'm curious if there is any difference in quality between the USA and the license ultralites. Would it be that big a deal to swap out the tuners in my american performer for license lolli ultralites? or should i save for the american ones?
questions, questions...
I've used Hipshots for years. Both bass and guitar. Admittedly, I've always used USA until this project. I just stumbled on this set on ebay for $56 direct. I would NOT have paid for USAs for that $100 Bronco, but I would for a USA Fender. So far, so good, but they're still new.

This thread had some info on licensed vs. USA. But, you know, it's the internet :rolleyes:
Hipshot UltraLites. Licensed vs USA
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone. I’ve heard that the licensed ones are pretty much the same bar the differences mentioned above (tbh reversability isn’t a necessity for a mustang). The discrepancy between the USA Xtender and the licensed tuners is something I can live with (albeit with some effort, haha).

The only thing I care about is for them not to be a downgrade in quality from the American Performer tuners, which are quite nice. Has anyone compared them?
 
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Thanks for the replies, everyone. I’ve heard that the licensed ones are pretty much the same bar the differences mentioned above (tbh reversability isn’t a necessity for a mustang). The discrepancy between the USA Xtender and the licensed tuners is something I can live with (albeit with some effort, haha).

The only thing I care about is for them not to be a downgrade in quality from the American Performer tuners, which are quite nice. Has anyone compared them?

i had an am performer and another mustang with licensed at the same time, no discernable difference, although Im sure if youre really picky, you could find something. i personally prefer the licensed UL. both were a considerable step up from stock MIM tuners on PJ or JMJ IMO.
 
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this gave me a good laugh at Guitar Center. Check out the closeup for the Pop Tart filling glue dripping in the closeup.
8F1E4C75-3F91-4E00-AED5-8AEBD3D4B6BF.jpeg
61C8A58B-D73D-4DD1-9A06-44960AD25020.jpeg
 
I also used a Switchcraft 3-way switch, my "go to" on my PJs, but the Mustang location is problematic to me. On the Mustang PJ, I invariably bump it "down", which I have chosen as the J pickup.
I cut the shaft in half, but this didn't resolve the problem. I just bought a rotary switch, which I hope to adapt to work. Should arrive tomorrow.
Thanks for the inspiration!! :bassist:

Well, I've installed the rotary switch. I think it's a keeper. Not as easy to select quickly, but I hardly ever switch mid-song anyway and if I do, it's generally trying to fine tune my sound to fit the moment, which I can pick a time for. I haven't settled on a knob yet. This one, I had in the "parts box"; it's the bottom half of an active "P" stacked knob. The set screw is my position marker. Not sure what would look better.

3 Way Rotary Selector Switch reduced.jpg
 
I'm curious if there is any difference in quality between the USA and the license ultralites. Would it be that big a deal to swap out the tuners in my american performer for license lolli ultralites? or should i save for the american ones?
questions, questions...

Go to the Hipshot website. They have spec sheets with drawings for each Ultralight tuner. You will find that when you compare the licensed to tuner drawing to the USA version of the same style and post diameter, the USA versions are lighter, which is the entire point of buying lightweight tuners.

Also, Ultralites aren't really drop in, because the mounts are single screw teardrop shapes and most (not all) Squier and Fender basses come stock with large 4 screw, semi-rectangular tuners. There are ways to cover up the ugly screw holes and impressions left in the wood by the original tuners. I experimented with hand tool making my own beauty cover plates out of thin aluminum. Perfectionists will criticize my crudely made plates, but I will stack my results up against any photos of plugged hole style mods. For a first try using only common hand tools they're not bad, but I've thought about making a second, closer match set.
 

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Go to the Hipshot website. They have spec sheets with drawings for each Ultralight tuner. You will find that when you compare the licensed to tuner drawing to the USA version of the same style and post diameter, the USA versions are lighter, which is the entire point of buying lightweight tuners.

Also, Ultralites aren't really drop in, because the mounts are single screw teardrop shapes and most (not all) Squier and Fender basses come stock with large 4 screw, semi-rectangular tuners. There are ways to cover up the ugly screw holes and impressions left in the wood by the original tuners. I experimented with hand tool making my own beauty cover plates out of thin aluminum. Perfectionists will criticize my crudely made plates, but I will stack my results up against any photos of plugged hole style mods. For a first try using only common hand tools they're not bad, but I've thought about making a second, closer match set.

Yep. That's how I feel also! Generally, I choose USA all the way. I just bought some USA Ultras to replace my USA HB7s on a JMJ neck and just received the adapter bushings for the larger MIM holes in the JMJ necks, and will fit the Ultras in the next day or so. The HB7s on the JMJs and Vintera are great machines, but really bulky, at 85g each, compared to the US Ultra at 55g; or the licensed, at 57g.
JMJ Head Back reduced twice.jpg


It didn't seem worth the expense, though, on my Bronco build, so I used licensed Ultras on it.
Tuners reduced.jpg


Your solution looks great, but I don't know if I have the machining skills to do that. Did the plates add any weight?
 
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What do you all think of this Mustang neck? I was about to pull the trigger, but then I saw the flaw. Not sure if that's a deal breaker or not?

View attachment 4981046
Looks okay and a drop of Titebond will probably keep it from spreading. However, 1. it will definitely affect resale value and 2. I'm not a luthier. Are you getting a good buy on it?
 
Looks okay and a drop of Titebond will probably keep it from spreading. However, 1. it will definitely affect resale value and 2. I'm not a luthier. Are you getting a good buy on it?

Mustang bass necks are super rare. It doesn't look too bad, but I really can't tell for sure?

Here's the link in case someone else wants to take a chance.

[This invalid link has been removed]