• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Fender Mustang Club

My PJ Mustang is back up and running!

New Switchcraft switch, which I've shaved the switch baton down on:

yh5IkV6.jpg


New pickguard as well:

EodnkAA.jpg
 
I am having a bit of a problem with my Mustang PJ and the fret ends on the G string side. All of the ends are sharp and seem to stick out a bit. Now my thumb, forefinger, and middle finger on my left hand are numb due to a stroke 5 years ago. After a good round of practice or playing I find the inside of my fingers are either raw or sometimes bleeding.
My question is could the fretboard need moisturizing or do the fret ends need to be filed or smoothed? Or could it be all the above? My other basses do not seem to have this issue.
The fretboard is Pau Ferro and the humidity here is fairly dry year round. This is Northern Nevada and considered high desert.
I am a bit confused as the information online is six of one half dozen of the other.
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated.

Bob
(With apologies to mrufino1 who kindly described the process to me a while back)
 
I've done one final mod to my PJ bass to try and make it more tonally balanced.

I stuck a 100k resistor between the P pickup lug on the switch and the common terminal. This means that when you switch the bridge pickup you still get a little 'clout' from the neck pickup. It adds a little bit of thump, but the tone is still solidly coming from the bridge pickup.
 
I am having a bit of a problem with my Mustang PJ and the fret ends on the G string side. All of the ends are sharp and seem to stick out a bit. Now my thumb, forefinger, and middle finger on my left hand are numb due to a stroke 5 years ago. After a good round of practice or playing I find the inside of my fingers are either raw or sometimes bleeding.
My question is could the fretboard need moisturizing or do the fret ends need to be filed or smoothed? Or could it be all the above? My other basses do not seem to have this issue.
The fretboard is Pau Ferro and the humidity here is fairly dry year round. This is Northern Nevada and considered high desert.
I am a bit confused as the information online is six of one half dozen of the other.
Any help or information would be greatly appreciated.

Bob
(With apologies to mrufino1 who kindly described the process to me a while back)

This should help:
Invalid Link Removed
 
  • Like
Reactions: MCF and Florinda4
I also use this tool, which I bought at StewMac years ago, but I don't see it on their website. They may not carry it anymore. You could maybe find it used on eBay. Much easier to use than the fret end dressing file, but the hand file may be better for detail work.
 
Thank you again David. I do have a set of jewlers needle files that has one that looks quite a bit like the StewMac file and I think it would work quite well. So long as I can work beyond my limitations I described to mrufino1 a bit back.
Are you aware if this is a known issue with MIM Mustang Pj's?
Bob
 
Thank you again David. I do have a set of jewlers needle files that has one that looks quite a bit like the StewMac file and I think it would work quite well. So long as I can work beyond my limitations I described to mrufino1 a bit back.
Are you aware if this is a known issue with MIM Mustang Pj's?
Bob

The jewelers files should do the job. I had this same problem on my Squire VM Jaguar SS bass. I do believe it's a more common issue on modern, less expensive instruments where the fret ends haven't been dressed properly AND on vintage instruments where the fingerboard wood has shrunk slightly. Also, as AMJ noted, fret sprout can occur over time where there wasn't enough glue applied in the fret slot to begin with, and/or the frets weren't pressed into the slots evenly with the proper amount of pressure. Hammered-in frets are probably more prone to this issue then pressed-in frets, which can sometimes require expensive machinery. That's my 2 cents worth on the subject.
 
Can anyone tell me what the specs are for the stock pots and cap for the Offset series? I shopping for pickups and I'm wondering if I should swap out everything or just the pups.

I just happen to come across this. It might help.
Bob
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: David Lee
My new tuners are GOTOH GB350 res-o-lite and i like them very much. They are an almost snug in fit, you need a few windings insulation tape around the bushings. Easy to do. Calculate the difference: it‘s about 224 grams, should be 7.9024oz. The weight of my ‚stang is now 3250 grams (7lb, 2.6404oz).
BUT: It is still a bit neck heavy. Only a tad but, as said, i hate it. Ok, next i will change the bridge.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SoulReflection

Latest posts