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Rumblers:
Have you seen these numbers?
So, what do you think will come first?
1,500 members?
50,000 replies (2,500 pages)?
3,000,000 views?
Ladies and gentlemen! Hurry, hurry, hurry! Step right up! Place your bets for "Members", "Replies/Pages" or "Views" to Win (1st), Place (2nd) or Show (3rd)!
I'll audit The Club treasury then draft a cheque for some really snazzy awards for the first correct guesses in each category, and a super-duper Grand Prize to whoever hits the tri-fecta first!
So, there's the start. But, since it may take some time to determine the order of all three categories reaching the above stated goals, there is no rush at this time. Further details will be determined as we go.
- Only Rumble Club members are eligible for prizes by posting their guesses here in the main Rumble Club thread. There is no charge for making your entries.
- Only one guess per category, per member, is valid. Your first recorded guesses in each category are your only valid entries. Any subsequent guesses are invalid, so give it your best shot the first time!
- As the only currently serving Club Official, I will officiate, referee and, in all other ways, administer this contest/raffle/event. I will also not be eligible for any prize(s).
Good luck to all!
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Holy simoleons! "There’s no rush.", I says. "Ok, here's my guesses.", they says! And by some of our most thoughtful Rumblers, too! Sheesh!
@Black Out Jazz - views, replies, members
@trseal - - - - - - - - - views, members, replies
@Miles_ONeal - - - replies, members, views - ("formalvotes" has no context here)
@GonePlaid - - - - - members, views, replies - (notice the order the categories were listed)
@JakobT - - - - - - - views, replies, members - (same as Black Out Jazz)
@AncientNoob - - views, members, replies - (same as trseal)
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I vote replies, views, members because nobody else has...
I'm gonna be totally different and go for Pages first, then Pictures (no idea what numbers you'll apply to these), then ..... I don't know.
Hi Guys, Looking through the options on my Rumble LT25 i notice that the presets from 30 to 50 are empty, yet the reviews and manual state that you can replace any of the original 30 with the extra ones, but mine all say EMPTY. SW version is v2.1.4
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Attention: Rumble Club Wiki Edit Alert!
Thank you, @Pilon69! Your questions about adding the extra 20 presets to your Rumble LT25 prompted me to add some Rumble LT25 links to the Rumble Club Wiki page in the Fender Tone App Support section, where some basic links were missing. I added links for getting the Desktop Tone App to update firmware, seeing Update Release Notes and the update that MOVED the 20 extra presets from the "Replace" function to the Desktop Tone App.
Thank you, Pilon, for your questions!
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Attention: Rumble Club Wiki Edit Alert!
Thank you, @Pilon69! Your questions about adding the extra 20 presets to your Rumble LT25 prompted me to add some Rumble LT25 links to the Rumble Club Wiki page in the Fender Tone App Support section, where some basic links were missing. I added links for getting the Desktop Tone App to update firmware, seeing Update Release Notes and the update that MOVED the 20 extra presets from the "Replace" function to the Desktop Tone App.
Thank you, Pilon, for your questions!
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Santa brought this aging noob a Rumble 40. Just getting into it; much, much to learn. Print me a number, please!
Santa brought this aging noob a Rumble 40. Just getting into it; much, much to learn. Print me a number, please!
Of course, of course, Virry, or willy, or ... Aging noobs are welcome here. @Virwill7, you are now member #1427 in the Fender Rumble Club. Congratulations and welcome. Please put that number in your TalkBass Signature for safe keeping. Then make yourself at home here and on your Rumble Club Wiki page, the repository of all Rumbling wisdom and knowledge.
Please let us know a bit about yourself, such as your bass experience in general and your Rumble journey in particular. Whatever your situation you're going to fit right in here 'cause we have all kinds. But we all love to ... ...
Rumble On!
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Glad to "hear" it, sir. Please feel free to ask or share here as you wish. And enjoy your R40. I enjoy an RS40 (Rumble Studio 40) myself and have been amazed at how well it keeps up with as many as two dozen acoustic stringed instruments, so far. Even a mature drummer can get along with it
Hello I just joined TalkBass because I need some help with a Rumble 200 amp I just bought (used). The amp wasn't working, but I bought it anyway, cheaply, in the hope that I can repair it. The previous owner didn't know much about it, but it has obviously been tinkered with.
It powers up when plugged in. The LED and fan come on. But no sound from my bass. We opened up the Rumble. Duh, someone has removed the cable that attaches to the main driver and the horn. Why would someone do that?
At this point I paid for it and brought it home to investigate further.
I powered up the amp again, and tested just the headphone output. It works! All the knobs and buttons work too. So the Control board seems fine.
I quickly checked the woofer: around 5 ohms, and I can hear a faint pop sound when I test it with my ohmmeter's LED check feature. So I think the woofer's okay. I won't worry about the horn for now.
I've found the 4-pin connector (P106 on the schematic) on the I/O board that connects to the woofer and horn. I can solder directly to the connector, or I might have the right connector somewhere. So it'll be easy to test whether the I/O board is working.
Then I noticed that it's a 230 V version (I'm in Canada, with 115 V). Oops. I have a small 115/230 transformer I can use for testing, but I also noticed that a jumper on the ICE power board has been placed in the 115 position. So I was thinking either:
a) Move the jumper back to the 230 position and use my transformer. Is there anything else I should know about before doing this? I don't see anything else on the schematics that I'd have to swap when using 230 V instead of 115 V, but the schematic I have doesn't show any detail for the ICE power board.
or
b) is it possible that that one jumper is the only thing that converts the ICE power board from 230 V to 115 V? If so, that would be fantastic.
I'm assuming that the control board and I/O board are not dependent on the AC input voltage.
It powers up when plugged in. The LED and fan come on. But no sound from my bass. We opened up the Rumble. Duh, someone has removed the cable that attaches to the main driver and the horn. Why would someone do that?
At this point I paid for it and brought it home to investigate further.
I powered up the amp again, and tested just the headphone output. It works! All the knobs and buttons work too. So the Control board seems fine.
I quickly checked the woofer: around 5 ohms, and I can hear a faint pop sound when I test it with my ohmmeter's LED check feature. So I think the woofer's okay. I won't worry about the horn for now.
I've found the 4-pin connector (P106 on the schematic) on the I/O board that connects to the woofer and horn. I can solder directly to the connector, or I might have the right connector somewhere. So it'll be easy to test whether the I/O board is working.
Then I noticed that it's a 230 V version (I'm in Canada, with 115 V). Oops. I have a small 115/230 transformer I can use for testing, but I also noticed that a jumper on the ICE power board has been placed in the 115 position. So I was thinking either:
a) Move the jumper back to the 230 position and use my transformer. Is there anything else I should know about before doing this? I don't see anything else on the schematics that I'd have to swap when using 230 V instead of 115 V, but the schematic I have doesn't show any detail for the ICE power board.
or
b) is it possible that that one jumper is the only thing that converts the ICE power board from 230 V to 115 V? If so, that would be fantastic.
I'm assuming that the control board and I/O board are not dependent on the AC input voltage.
From what I see in the schematics, that's the case. But don't trust me on that. You should be measuring +-24V @ P103. Or use the "POWER SUPPLY DC VOLTAGE MATRIX" test points for measurements.
To use it as a head only and omit the internal speakers. At least I guess.
Hope You can fix up that combo, and did not pay a fortune for it! Good luck, and be careful /w high voltage!
Anyone care to explain the four volume knobs on a Rumble? How they interact? (With the drive channel pushed on).
I was getting overly buzzy drive tones and found that just having the level higher than the master creates overdrive, even if the drive is rather low; it was hard to get a mild overdrive. On the other hand, was wanting a full fuzz tone, and not getting it, apparently the master was too high to allow much, with the overall volume controlled by the low gain.
It seems best to think of them as four volume knobs in series, left to right. Gain, drive, level, master. I’m used to amps with two knobs, with of course, if the pre is higher than the master you get overdrive happening. So, OK, four volumes knobs here, left ones higher than the master to get drive. However it’s a little puzzling, how they interact.
A couple odd things. With the gain all the way down, you still get some volume. And with the gain all the way up, and drive section off, you still don’t get overdrive. It’s like the actual range on the gain knob is kind of narrow.
I was getting overly buzzy drive tones and found that just having the level higher than the master creates overdrive, even if the drive is rather low; it was hard to get a mild overdrive. On the other hand, was wanting a full fuzz tone, and not getting it, apparently the master was too high to allow much, with the overall volume controlled by the low gain.
It seems best to think of them as four volume knobs in series, left to right. Gain, drive, level, master. I’m used to amps with two knobs, with of course, if the pre is higher than the master you get overdrive happening. So, OK, four volumes knobs here, left ones higher than the master to get drive. However it’s a little puzzling, how they interact.
A couple odd things. With the gain all the way down, you still get some volume. And with the gain all the way up, and drive section off, you still don’t get overdrive. It’s like the actual range on the gain knob is kind of narrow.
Think of it as those active/passive inputs on other amps, just not a fixed value, but adjustable. If You crank it, You rather get a compressed sound than a driven one.
The OD level is for matching the driven channel's volume to the clean one.
OD's drive is sort of a gain.
OD is more like a driven tube sound rather than a fuzz.
I mostly (in fact rarely use it at all
) use drive at minimum, level to be just a tad higher than clean. Gives me presence by adding a bit of grit and by cutting just a little bit of lows.Edit: Also there is a block diagram which helps understanding where's what.
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I’ll bet that 200 pops. I played through a 500 at GC before Christmas. Talk about pushing air!
