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the speaker and the headphone jack were fritzed out not just the speaker, not sure if the octave fuzz and high output bass did it or if it just gave up the ghost
Unless you ran a very hot signal into the amp with the gain cranked, I’d be surprised if you could fry a Rumble because of input voltage. How old was it?
Was it a Rumble V1 25 made between 2003 and 2010, with pulsing red lights in the port?
Or was it a Rumble V3 25 made between 2014 and today?
Perhaps such overcranking the input could cause thermal problems. Here's a fascinating look at the cooling considerations that go into such amps.
It was the silver face one in the middle.
So, continuing from my earlier post:
BUT THERE'S NO FUN IN THAT!
I researched the available options for perforated metal and meshes. EU standards for perforated metal sheets mean that:
1. Highest open area (~80%) is available with honeycomb perforation (Hv 4.5-5 or Hv 6-6.7). The best square perforation is around 70% (Qg 10-12). The best round perforation (oriented at vertices of an equilateral triangle) is around 63% (Rv 5-6 or Rv 15-18).
Acoustically transparent speaker cloth gives much higher effective (acoustic) open area, and cab manufacturers simply accept that, when using metal grilles, some (potentially a lot) of acoustic energy will be lost to absorption and reflection, but it's apparently not that much since it's a fairly popular option.
Mesh scale is also standardized. Mesh 6 (pitch=1⁄6") with 0.5 mm wire is ca. 78% open area. Mesh 10 (pitch=1⁄10") with 0.4 mm wire is ca. 71% open area, sieve size 1.6 (1.6 mm pitch) with 0.4 mm wire is 64% open area.
3 (and 5). 1 mm thickness is perfectly fine, since it will be affixed to a wood frame.
4. About the materials. Not all metal or mesh options are available in all materials, but it's more down to color than anything else.
So I drew up mock-ups of the various options and I need your input. All are modeled on the Rumble 115, picture courtesy of Thomann. First are all the options (hexagonal Hv4.5-5 and Hv6-6.7, round Rv5-6 and Rv15-18, square Qg10-12, sieve size 1.6 in copper and brass and mesh 6 in copper and brass, then close-ups of each of the options.
Up close:
The easiest way is to buy the standard grille cloth. I could make two separate frames: one with fabric oriented horizontally, the other vertically, so it looks right with the cab standalone and when stacked.
BUT THERE'S NO FUN IN THAT!
I researched the available options for perforated metal and meshes. EU standards for perforated metal sheets mean that:
1. Highest open area (~80%) is available with honeycomb perforation (Hv 4.5-5 or Hv 6-6.7). The best square perforation is around 70% (Qg 10-12). The best round perforation (oriented at vertices of an equilateral triangle) is around 63% (Rv 5-6 or Rv 15-18).
Acoustically transparent speaker cloth gives much higher effective (acoustic) open area, and cab manufacturers simply accept that, when using metal grilles, some (potentially a lot) of acoustic energy will be lost to absorption and reflection, but it's apparently not that much since it's a fairly popular option.
Mesh scale is also standardized. Mesh 6 (pitch=1⁄6") with 0.5 mm wire is ca. 78% open area. Mesh 10 (pitch=1⁄10") with 0.4 mm wire is ca. 71% open area, sieve size 1.6 (1.6 mm pitch) with 0.4 mm wire is 64% open area.
3 (and 5). 1 mm thickness is perfectly fine, since it will be affixed to a wood frame.
4. About the materials. Not all metal or mesh options are available in all materials, but it's more down to color than anything else.
So I drew up mock-ups of the various options and I need your input. All are modeled on the Rumble 115, picture courtesy of Thomann. First are all the options (hexagonal Hv4.5-5 and Hv6-6.7, round Rv5-6 and Rv15-18, square Qg10-12, sieve size 1.6 in copper and brass and mesh 6 in copper and brass, then close-ups of each of the options.
Up close:
That's also my preference and what I started off with, but I stumbled on lack of availability. In theory, they're available. In practice, not really. If I was running a business selling those grilles, then sure, I could order a few square metres of each material to have available at hand.
But I'm not, so I'm stuck with what's available at the moment, and high open area sheets are just not available except for squares. But they require perfect alignment to look right, meaning I either have to order to exact specifications (to avoid bending), or get them bent by the supplier because I don't have the right machine to do it myself.
And if I'm doing squares, I might as well do a mesh, since they're much easier to work with.
I'm still going to check with other suppliers, but so far, it doesn't look promising.
But I'm not, so I'm stuck with what's available at the moment, and high open area sheets are just not available except for squares. But they require perfect alignment to look right, meaning I either have to order to exact specifications (to avoid bending), or get them bent by the supplier because I don't have the right machine to do it myself.
And if I'm doing squares, I might as well do a mesh, since they're much easier to work with.
I'm still going to check with other suppliers, but so far, it doesn't look promising.
That's the path I was initially planning (bending the edges in), which was proving to be a challenge. But then I saw the post below by @baileyboy1, where he used flat pieces of metal mesh, screwing them to the front of new wood frames. Much easier to implement, and is 100% reversible, if desired.
So I now plan to order the pieces pre-cut and simply make new friction-fit wood frames.
Tah-Dah!I understand exactly what you mean, and there may come a day when there is a separate Studio & Stage club dedicated to exploring new settings, and general help for those like me that are digitally challenged.
It may take some time but I think these amps are really going to take off big time. I believe the Studio 40 will find its way on top of a variety of non-Fender class D amps being used as pre-amps offering tremendous versitility and also replacing expensive pedalboards.
Yes. I forget just who it was that called Fender and found out that...
Yep, I saw that and it was the initial inspiration. But I thought I could make it slightly better by not exposing the perforation ends.
I see at least one company that makes perforated sheets to size and centers the perforation to provide a nice margin around it. That would be the best way to go, assuming they can make it an anodized black sheet (though I'm not completely against a silvery grille, either).
I'm not sure how you finally went about your frames, but instead of making new frames to make them friction-fit, there are two other ways you can try:
One is to use the provided hook strips and add loop strips on the frame. The other is to glue a long foam strip around the frame's outer edge to friction fit your current frame to the cabinet.
I see at least one company that makes perforated sheets to size and centers the perforation to provide a nice margin around it. That would be the best way to go, assuming they can make it an anodized black sheet (though I'm not completely against a silvery grille, either).
I'm not sure how you finally went about your frames, but instead of making new frames to make them friction-fit, there are two other ways you can try:
One is to use the provided hook strips and add loop strips on the frame. The other is to glue a long foam strip around the frame's outer edge to friction fit your current frame to the cabinet.
I want to keep the original grilles intact, for resale ease, in case I decide to swap amps again. While I want cat-proof grilles, potential future owner(s) might not value them.
I do plan to use the existing hook strips on the baffles with new loops on the new frames to hold them in place. The friction fit is to avoid buzzing and rattling. I'll likely use some sort of foam or cloth on the frame perimeters, either all the way around or pieces in the corners and sides,
The metal grilles on my Eden and Markbass amps are held in with screws going through blocks into the baffles. Using that method would require gluing or drilling blocks into the baffles, which isn't 100% reversible, so that's not something I'm considering.
That's actually a foregone conclusion, the current owner's wife threw out the original grille cloth, so that's not even an option. That's why I'm looking for a replacement, anyway.
Aaaand, I should have expected that, another buyer snatched both the cab and the amp (Rumble 500) that the seller put up. No wonder, the prices for both were really good, but it hurts all the same, considering that the seller didn't bother to mention that somebody else was interested.
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Picked up this one off of Market....... Rumble V3 200 combo.. missing one potentiometer nut for the foot switch jack, took it off to try ,and find one at my local music store, and lost it.. Now I need two.. 
Guy at the hardware store said, " you need "3/4 nut..
He printed this for me...
Thanks for the help in advance...
Guy at the hardware store said, " you need "3/4 nut..
He printed this for me...
Thanks for the help in advance...
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