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Fender Rumble Club

I forgot to mention I had the contour button on when I reported my settings - here they are from my first gig with her when I was full tilt with the band at medium club volume and man was it ever keeping up!
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Squarewave's post put me over the top and I worked out a "sweet" deal with Sweetwater to pick up a pair of Rumble neo 2x8s.

Hi Bob. I think you will like the 2x 2x8 combination. The footprint is very small, and it seems to me to provide plenty of volume to handle gigs. I've been out if the game for 17 yrs while I have a bunch of kids, but I'm ready to get back into it now, and I think the Genz Benz and 2x8 cabs should handle anything I need.

I have an extra 2x8, by the way , if anyone wants to try one.
 
Hey Guys, got a question about the Rumble 500. Got a gig coming up Friday where I will be running through the PA. Now I know the XLR out is not a di and the output is controlled by the volume on the amp, now does the Gain control the volume for the XLR out or the Master control the volume ?
And since the volume does control it does it mean it's set to the post position and I will sending the pa the sound from my amp or a flat signal with just the volume to control it ? Sorry for the dumb questions, just debating on getting a direct box or a mic or will the XLR be fine...Thanks Guys
 
Hey Guys, got a question about the Rumble 500. Got a gig coming up Friday where I will be running through the PA. Now I know the XLR out is not a di and the output is controlled by the volume on the amp, now does the Gain control the volume for the XLR out or the Master control the volume ?
And since the volume does control it does it mean it's set to the post position and I will sending the pa the sound from my amp or a flat signal with just the volume to control it ? Sorry for the dumb questions, just debating on getting a direct box or a mic or will the XLR be fine...Thanks Guys
That's a fair enough question, nitrofix. The balanced XLR line out is post EQ so both the Gain & Master will effect the line out level. If you look at the block diagram on page 6 of your owner's manual you will see that right before your signal leaves the amp it goes through a "Speaker Cab Sim", which I think is a pretty cool extra bit of electronic circuitry to make your XLR out sound as much like a well mic'd speaker as possible. Just clue your sound man in that he might actually have to pay attention and do his job. Test him a few times by cranking your master volume during the g-wanker's solos.
 
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Well, I have the Rumble v3 500 combo, which I really like, and I've been kicking around the idea of picking up a couple of neo 112s or 2x8s to try out before they're gone (I have a Rumble v3 500 head to drive these).. I'm thinking they might be a bit cleaner and more "modern" sounding than the v3 series, which will offer a nice contrast to the more vintage v3 sound.

Squarewave's post put me over the top and I worked out a "sweet" deal with Sweetwater to pick up a pair of Rumble neo 2x8s. It's great to have so many good choices!

Bob
I've never heard the neo 8's, but do know I love the sound of the Eminence Neo 12's in my Rumble 112. Very tightly focused bottom with exceedingly smooth mids, and crisp soaring highs. No tweet needed. So yes, I think they do an ultra clean modern jazz sound with the greatest of ease. My V2 Rumble 350 head is perfect match. 'Three Of A Perfect Pair'. ;)
 
You didn't ask a question.

I asked about the Vintage, Contour, Bright options on the Rumble 40s and up.

I have a Rumble 40 and I tried each option....either I'm deaf or I just don't understand what those do to the sound. Apart from the Bright option, which doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure THAT out, but what do the contour and vintage buttons do?
 
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Just to remind you,
I had bought a rumble 40 V3 until my rumble 100 arrives.
The 100 finally arrived last week. This morning i went to the store to try it but I ended up preferring the 40's tone.
Like some of you have already mentioned, I also find the 100 too boomy. Even with the low and low mids cut down, i prefer the 40's tone. I don't want to modify it like some of you did.

Finally, the shop will keep the rumble 100 and offered to refund my deposit.

NOW, i'm waiting to find and try the 200 and 500 combos.

At first, I told myself i would go with the 200 but i usually prefer 10" speakers when using my precision bass.

I decided to wait and try the 500 to just to make sure i'd make the right choice.

Here are my questions:

For the one who tried most models, do you find the 200 boomy?

Is the 500 tighter than the 100 or 200?


Once again thanks again to you all!
 
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Just to remind you,
I had bought a rumble 40 V3 until my rumble 100 arrives.
The 100 finally arrived last week. This morning i went to the store to try it but I ended up preferring the 40's tone.
Like some of you have already mentioned, I also find the 100 too boomy. Even with the low and low mids cut down, i prefer the 40's tone. I don't want to modify it like some of you did.

Funny, I have a v3 40 and I find it too lacking in the boomy. But then again, the 100 is too heavy for me to carry from the store, take it on transit, and carry it home.
 
I asked about the Vintage, Contour, Bright options on the Rumble 40s and up.

I have a Rumble 40 and I tried each option....either I'm deaf or I just don't understand what those do to the sound. Apart from the Bright option, which doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure THAT out, but what do the contour and vintage buttons do?
Yes, it's all in your owner's manual, but we'll take them all one at a time.

"BRIGHT — Adds presence and shimmer in the upper frequencies." and then in the specifications we read that with the 'Bright' shape filter engaged we are boosting the 10kHz by +13dB. That's a HUGE boost. It's just like taking your treble control and cranking it all the way up. You may have a single tune that needs that extreme treble boost or maybe just a passage so a quick and easy punch of the button gives it to you, and just as easily returns you to your 'normal' tone setting when disengaged.

"CONTOUR — Mid-frequency cut, combined with low-and- high-frequency boosts that offer a fat pleasing tone, useful for slap style playing, low-volume practice, or in combination with OVERDRIVE." This is a very sophisticated shape filter that both boosts two frequencies and cuts ('scoops') the mids. First a modest 1dB boost at 80hz. Then a deep 13dB cut/scoop at 670Hz. And finially another modest 2dB boost at 8kHz. Notice that none of your four tone controls cover any of these three frequencies.

"VINTAGE — Creates a dark tone rich with harmonics and some natural compression." I have already written about this at length in one of my recent "Rumble Talks" So go back and read that.

Ear training is imperative, so if you aren't hearing the differences in tone/sound you need to start working on it. With all your tone controls set at 'noon' 0 boost/cut start with the high mid control (1.2kHz) because that will be the easiest for you to hear. Turn it all the way to the left for a full 12 dB cut. Play an A scale. Notice the tone. Now slowly start to boost. Keep playing. Notice the change in tone. Boost all the way. Notice the super edgy 'in-your-face' abrasive high mids. Got it? Do this for each control learn what they do and how it effects your tone and sound. This is critical.
 
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I asked about the Vintage, Contour, Bright options on the Rumble 40s and up.

I have a Rumble 40 and I tried each option....either I'm deaf or I just don't understand what those do to the sound. Apart from the Bright option, which doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure THAT out, but what do the contour and vintage buttons do?
The contour button cuts mids, the vintage adds bottom. I line the contour button on my v3 500 engaged. I play pbass with flats.
 
I'm leaning towards either the 200w combo or the 500w combo. Other than the obvious difference of cost, the size/number of speakers and watts/volume, is there a significant difference between these two? Local inventory has prohibited an in-person A/B. Which of the two would/did you choose, and why?
 
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I'm leaning towards either the 200w combo or the 500w combo. Other than the obvious difference of cost, the size/number of speakers and watts/volume, is there a significant difference between these two? Local inventory has prohibited an in-person A/B. Which of the two would/did you choose, and why?
The difference in price is only $100. Unless you're selling blood plasma to pay for the amp you should spend the extra money and get more power and more speaker area.

But to answer your question, no, there are no extra features on the 500 over the 200. Same preamp, eq, etc. still no mute switch.


Sent from my iPad using TalkBass
 
Ok so I played around with the v3 200 and did a comparison with my tv15 350 watt and b100r which all have 15 inch speaker configurations. I can't believe how close the v3 200 comes as far as volume wise to the tv15. I'm going to test with the band com
20140909_180842.jpg
ing up this week.. i still love the tv15 except for the weight but it does have caster's. The ampeg has a sound of its own which I really like too.
20140909_180842.jpg
 
Ok so I played around with the v3 200 and did a comparison with my tv15 350 watt and b100r which all have 15 inch speaker configurations. I can't believe how close the v3 200 comes as far as volume wise to the tv15. I'm going to test with the band coming up this week.. i still love the tv15 except for the weight but it does have caster's. The ampeg has a sound of its own which I really like too.View attachment 476173