Has anyone gotten curious enough to locate the SPL ratings of the speakers user in the V3 Rumble cab? I am currently looking but about to become bored at it...
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Fender Rumble v3 40 - First Impressions
- Thread starter el_cody_loco
- Start date
Nope. Fender doesn't publish cabinet specs and neither does Eminence publish specs on the drivers they have custom designed for Fender. See?! Boredom over. Shop by ear (what sounds good to you) and never by eye (specs printed on a page).
The Rumble 40 v3 driver in mine has a 'pistonic' sensitivity of 92.2 db/w/m (measured with a Smith and Larson Audio Woofer Tester 2). There is undoubtedly some driver to driver variation, and my driver may not be representative. However, it does sound very like all the Rumble 40's I've played through. It probably gains 3 or 4 db in the 1-3 kHz range due to cone breakup, the effects of which are audible primarily on-axis. It actually sounds pretty smooth through the upper mids and highs. On a spec sheet, it would probably be rated around 95 db/w/m.
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Bought the amp a few weeks ago and I am just wondering how this little cab can sound as good as it does. You know. Curiosity.
Ditto on buying by ear.
Magic circuitry designed by Fender's Principal Engineer, Dave Lewis, and his Fender Bass Amplification design team. Really. It's all true. Check out the many various 'Rumble Talks' in the Fender Rumble Club thread. There is an absolute ton of inside information to be found. Pay close attention to the talks on the Delta-Comp Limiter, that's the secret sauce.
What headphones do you guys like with this amp? I tried my Sennheisers with a 1/4" to 3.5 adapter and I only get sound in one ear, and the 3.5mm earbuds my wife uses for her keyboard are terrrrrrrible.
I finally got around to trying your preferred tuning (57Hz) and it's a definite improvement due to the relatively aggressive high pass filtering in the amp. Many thanks for the informative posts and ideas. This is a great little practice amp as it and shines even more with a few tweaks.
Well after a few mails talking with AstroSonic - I have begun. Just to let you know I have built several of the DIY10 cabinet that have a forum here and work great. I have also discovered the Rumble 40 and the DIY10 cabinets are basically the same CF of 1.2.
So with all this new stuff in my head - I took the Rumble 40 and lined the cabinet bottom, one side and back with a medium heavy batting. I then took a 2510 speaker ( a small upgrade from the 2010) and went to work.
So far the cabinet speaks out - if has more bottom end (as I like) but the mids are cut a bit (again I prefer this more). Highs and mids are smoother and it has a more pleasing bass tone (to me at least).
I did not do the jumper connection in the back as I will only use as a stand along amp. I have ordered the tube ports and when they come in, I will let you know the results then.
Thanks AstroSonic and Rumble on.
LennyJ
So with all this new stuff in my head - I took the Rumble 40 and lined the cabinet bottom, one side and back with a medium heavy batting. I then took a 2510 speaker ( a small upgrade from the 2010) and went to work.
So far the cabinet speaks out - if has more bottom end (as I like) but the mids are cut a bit (again I prefer this more). Highs and mids are smoother and it has a more pleasing bass tone (to me at least).
I did not do the jumper connection in the back as I will only use as a stand along amp. I have ordered the tube ports and when they come in, I will let you know the results then.
Thanks AstroSonic and Rumble on.
LennyJ
MonsterRain is deciding between the 2010 and the 2510 - so here was my answer to him.
Remember that AstroSonic and Duke did all the heavy work for all of us here.
"You can look at this thread
Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
I built some of these 1x10s and they just happen to be right at 1.2 CF just as the Rumble 40 - so lots of good stuff here that relates.
I first used the 2010 as the thread listed - but found it kept farting out at higher volumes (I was using a GK 500 micro amp). So when I went to the 2510 it all feel in line. The 2010 is great for lower volumes - but if you are going to add the jumper and use your cabinet with another larger amp - I say upgrade to the 2510.
The main reason I used one this time, is I had an extra sitting around."
Have fun with it.
LennyJ
Remember that AstroSonic and Duke did all the heavy work for all of us here.
"You can look at this thread
Low-cost DIY practice/coffeehouse tweeterless 110 [long]
I built some of these 1x10s and they just happen to be right at 1.2 CF just as the Rumble 40 - so lots of good stuff here that relates.
I first used the 2010 as the thread listed - but found it kept farting out at higher volumes (I was using a GK 500 micro amp). So when I went to the 2510 it all feel in line. The 2010 is great for lower volumes - but if you are going to add the jumper and use your cabinet with another larger amp - I say upgrade to the 2510.
The main reason I used one this time, is I had an extra sitting around."
Have fun with it.
LennyJ
[long, techie]
The S2010 and 2510 II are both excellent bass drivers. I have not used the 2510, but it models quite similar to the S2010, even in excursion limited power handling. However, these results are based on a small signal analysis that is extrapolated to high power levels. It does not include the effects of suspension non-linearity and thermal compression. The latter especially would not only limit maximum bass spl, but also cause the program to miss potential early fart-out. As the temperature of the voice coil rises, so does its resistance. The added resistance can eat up 2-3 db of power (and sound - thus the term 'thermal compression'), but it also increases the drivers Qts, so it is less well damped. The decreased cone control (due to decreased damping) leads to early fart-out. This behavior is common to all drivers. To fight this, engineers design in thermal management features that allow their drivers to meet (hopefully) their published power handling specs. For low to medium power drivers, adequate cooling is achieved by pumping air through the voice coil gap and by heat transference to the magnetic structure (as in the S2010). For medium to high power drivers increased cooling is achieved through the use of a vented pole piece, and by adding heat sink fins to the magnetic structure (including the cast frame). My take on this is that both drivers are engineered to meet specific performance targets. The ratings of the two drivers suggest that the S2010 should fart out earlier than the 2510 II.
As to the choice of driver for this mod, either will work well. However, based on the published frequency responses, the 2510 II should have obviously more upper mids presence. If you intend to use the cab with an external amplifier that could exceed the thermal rating of the driver, and you intend to push the amp to its clean limits (just below clipping), then choose the driver with the higher thermal rating - the 2510 II. I sometimes use my S2010 loaded Rumble 40 cab with a twin (DIY), hooked up to a GK MB500 (works well where I need some significant volume, but on a stage that is very space limited). I find that the S2010 cabs will take most of the power minus some intentional headroom. So, running roughly 200w into two S2010's (100w/driver) leaves only about 4db (300w) for peaks (headroom), but the amp and drivers seem to handle this without sounding dirty, compressing or farting out. OTOH, you could probably use the 2510 II's with an 800w amp using the same 4 db of headroom (160w/driver and 480w headroom). If you were to use the same (or a similarly rated head) with the limiter turned on, you would want to use the 2510 II's. You could run the S2010's this way if you cut the bass and boosted the lower mids a bit, but you would be sacrificing some tone. Boosting the bass more than a db or two changes things, with both drivers quickly running out of linear excursion. Also, if you are using a P-bass with old flats, equivalent volumes are going to have more power in the bass. Bottom line, there is no substitute for listening to your rig while playing, being on the alert for sounds of distress.
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Ok. I am not sure if this the appropriate place to ask this, but here goes. I am a newbie (fng as we called it in the marines) to the bass world. Coming over from keyboards and guitars because of RA. I recently purchased the Rumble 40 v3 and am very happy. An aquaintance told me that since I own Peavey pa speakers I should hook 1 up through the line out & this would brighten it to guitar use. Can that be done safely? The Peavey is rated at 8ohms. This guy has gotten me in trouble b4 with his "suggestions" so I thought I would ask the experts b4 I did something stupid. Tyvm for your patience and understanding. .. Doc
There is a 'line out' on the Rumble 40, but it will not power a speaker unless the speaker is powered - one with a built in amplifier. If the speaker were a powered speaker you could just plug the guitar directly into it.
You could add a jack plate to the Rumble 40, allowing the amplifier to power whatever speaker was plugged into it, as described in an earlier post in this thread. You would need to be comfortable with tools and soldering. OTOH, you may just want to leave things as they are. The Rumble 40 is a fine little bass amp in stock form.
You could add a jack plate to the Rumble 40, allowing the amplifier to power whatever speaker was plugged into it, as described in an earlier post in this thread. You would need to be comfortable with tools and soldering. OTOH, you may just want to leave things as they are. The Rumble 40 is a fine little bass amp in stock form.
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Thankyou very much Astrosonic for your input and suggestions. It is nice to know that my initial concerned outweighed his "suggestion". My electronics is limited so your input on leaving it un-modified is very well taken. I will do just that and he can haul around his 50lb Vox and leave mine alone. Thankyou once again for your time and expertice......Doc
@AstroSonic or anyone else who has swapped in an S2010 and changed tuning... Did you use any port flares? Are the precision ports a snug enough fit to not necessitate a mounting surface of some sort?
Wondering whether one port kit is enough or if I'll need two.
Thanks.
Wondering whether one port kit is enough or if I'll need two.
Thanks.
The port tubes were a VERY tight fit on mine--I had a rounded rasp that helped open up the plywood a bit, plus a grinding wheel attachment for my drill. I was careful to remove only the minimum amount of wood that would let the new ports squeeze in, and caulked the inside to insure against air leaks. I didn't use any flares.
I would try sanding the end of the port tubes on the outside, rounding the outer edge slightly. Or you could use a sanding drum (for a drill, 80-120 grit) on the ID of the plywood hole., or just wrap some 80 grit sand paper around some 1 inch doweling.
Edit: The rounded rasp can be pretty aggressive - I would probably end up with an out-of-round hole (!), but with care it should work.
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@AstroSonic another question. I can't figure how you modeled an F3 of 56hz with a tune of 57hz. As you see in the attached, I'm down 3dB at just over 60hz.
I also don't get the same port length as you for such a tune (my 3.17" vs your 2 5/8"). And double checking online, I get similar results (3.19" length for dual 2" ports). A difference in TS parameters might account for the tuning, but I doubt we'd be that far off (mine are attached). To get 2.625 long ports, I figure the tuning would be around 60.5.
Of course the final performance is what really matters, but I'm doing a little obsessing as I wait for my S2010 to come tomorrow. I have done much more speaker building than bass playing (just learning), so this is a natural area for me to tinker.
I appreciate the great info you have shared. I think the S2010 is a great replacement driver. Any insight to the points above would be helpful.
I also don't get the same port length as you for such a tune (my 3.17" vs your 2 5/8"). And double checking online, I get similar results (3.19" length for dual 2" ports). A difference in TS parameters might account for the tuning, but I doubt we'd be that far off (mine are attached). To get 2.625 long ports, I figure the tuning would be around 60.5.
Of course the final performance is what really matters, but I'm doing a little obsessing as I wait for my S2010 to come tomorrow. I have done much more speaker building than bass playing (just learning), so this is a natural area for me to tinker.
I appreciate the great info you have shared. I think the S2010 is a great replacement driver. Any insight to the points above would be helpful.
