Fender Rumble v3 40 - First Impressions

[bobcruz]

All done. The combo is plenty bright for bass guitar with all the EQ at noon, so I've buttoned it all up without a tweeter. The tweeters I have all sounded fine and helped improve the sound of recorded music but I'm not going to use the combo to play recordings and there just wasn't enough difference with the tweeters playing only bass guitar, so I'm not adding a tweeter.

I still have some minor buzzing on a few notes that I can't trace to anything. I think the amplifier section might be the culprit. At some point I'll play it with the amp section detached to find out but it's really minor and doesn't affect how I'll be using this combo. Cheers, Bob

Edit: I'm pretty sure the buzzing is in the amplifier section. I could hear it when I played the offending note with my ear near the back. I'll eventually pull the amp, find the buzzing part and hot glue it down. I don't regret putting in the struts, though. The panels are stiff as a rock now.

 

[bobcruz]

Fixed the buzz today--it was the amplifier section as I suspected. I removed the mounting screws but left it semi-installed so it would pick up vibrations from the cabinet, and when I played the offending notes (Eb through F on the A string) the main flat metal panel buzzed like a snare drum and would stop if I put my finger anywhere on it. So I completely removed the amp and glopped hot glue all around the inside wherever there was open metal. I probably used about a whole stick of hot glue--adding an ounce or two to the combo's weight, ha ha. I also separated any components and wires that were touching each other, and there were many, but I don't think those were contributing to the buzz. Put it back together and the buzz is 95% gone. I think the cabinet has a standing wave at that frequency (around 90 Hz) that the metal panel was magnifying but I don't want to add any more dampening material and it's basically unnoticeable now.

Now the project is really done except for a dust cover. I'll probably ask my wife to make one from the black cordura fabric we have but if anyone has a great source for a cover, let me know. Peace, Bob

 

[AstroSonic]

Fixed the buzz today--it was the amplifier section as I suspected. I removed the mounting screws but left it semi-installed so it would pick up vibrations from the cabinet, and when I played the offending notes (Eb through F on the A string) the main flat metal panel buzzed like a snare drum and would stop if I put my finger anywhere on it. So I completely removed the amp and glopped hot glue all around the inside wherever there was open metal. I probably used about a whole stick of hot glue--adding an ounce or two to the combo's weight, ha ha. I also separated any components and wires that were touching each other, and there were many, but I don't think those were contributing to the buzz. Put it back together and the buzz is 95% gone. I think the cabinet has a standing wave at that frequency (around 90 Hz) that the metal panel was magnifying but I don't want to add any more dampening material and it's basically unnoticeable now.

Now the project is really done except for a dust cover. I'll probably ask my wife to make one from the black cordura fabric we have but if anyone has a great source for a cover, let me know. Peace, Bob

I don't think there is a design flaw causing the buzz. My Rumble 40 viii/S2010 has had no buzzing problems. Even when driven to much higher levels (than the internal 40w) with a GK MB500 there is no buzzing.

I found lower cab tunings, like the consensus 47 Hz, to be ineffective and audibly unsatisfying. The Rumble 40 has high pass filtering that begins cutting the fundamental audibly, near low A on a 4 string. The MB500 passes considerably more energy down low (at the same volume level). Boosting the bass on the Rumble 40 does not bring it back. The boost is too broad, so the ratio of fundamental to harmonic s is not restored. Tuning higher (I used 57Hz) results in an alignment with more energy in the lower mid-bass, and above the high pass filtering. This coincidently is the range of the second harmonic of the low notes on the B string, resulting in good B string tone. Anyway, that's how it sounds to me. Glad you are pleased with the S2010.

 

[bobcruz]

I don't think there is a design flaw causing the buzz. My Rumble 40 viii/S2010 has had no buzzing problems. Even when driven to much higher levels (than the internal 40w) with a GK MB500 there is no buzzing.

I found lower cab turnings, like the consensus 47 Hz, to be ineffective and audibly unsatisfying. The Rumble 40 has high pass filtering that begins cutting the fundamental audibly, near low A on a 4 string. The MB500 passes considerably more energy down low (at the same volume level). Boosting the bass on the Rumble 40 does not bring it back. The boost is too broad, so the ratio of fundamental to harmonic s is not restored. Tuning higher (I used 57Hz) results in an alignment with more energy in the lower mid-bass, and above the high pass filtering. This coincidently is the range of the second harmonic of the low notes on the B string, resulting in good B string tone. Anyway, that's how it sounds to me. Glad you are pleased with the S2010.

I might give that tuning a try but for now I'm a happy camper. Thanks for all your advice and thoughts. I hope these discussions help other users who may want to mod their combo.

 

[eric_B]

I installed a jack plate on the back allowing the amp and speaker to be used separately. It also allows the combo to be used as a cab (with a separate amp), and a backup amp to be used if the internal amp fails.

Hi AstroSonic, as I have thought about doing the same mod to my V3 100, could you tell what you exactly did? Did you only install a jack connector and wire it to the speaker or did you also install a switch to switch between the internal and external amp? I'm no tech and was wondering if it could damage the internal amp if an external one was wired directly.

 

[AstroSonic]

Hi AstroSonic, as I have thought about doing the same mod to my V3 100, could you tell what you exactly did? Did you only install a jack connector and wire it to the speaker or did you also install a switch to switch between the internal and external amp? I'm no tech and was wondering if it could damage the internal amp if an external one was wired directly.

Install a jack plate (Penn Elcom from Parts Express) with openings for female 1/4 inch (mono) and speakon jacks. Disconnect the speaker end of the wire inside the cab and connect it to the 1/4inch jack. Add a wire connecting the speaker to the speakon jack. The 1/4 inch Jack is now the output Jack for he internal amplifier. The speakon connector is now the Jack for the internal speaker/cab. Make a short cable with male 1/4 inch and speakon jacks. Use the cable to connect the internal amplifier and speaker. You can also use the internal amplifier to drive other cabs, or use another amplifier to drive the internal speaker. I considered using a switch to make the connection, but went with the jumper connection in order to prevent the connection of an external speaker while the internal one was connected ( drops the impedance below 8ohms), and to prevent the connection of two amplifiers to the internal speaker. It's a simple, fool proof solution.

 

[eric_B]

Install a jack plate (Penn Elcom from Parts Express) with openings for female 1/4 inch (mono) and speakon jacks. Disconnect the speaker end of the wire inside the cab and connect it to the 1/4inch jack. Add a wire connecting the speaker to the speakon jack. The 1/4 inch Jack is now the output Jack for he internal amplifier. The speakon connector is now the Jack for the internal speaker/cab. Make a short cable with male 1/4 inch and speakon jacks. Use the cable to connect the internal amplifier and speaker. You can also use the internal amplifier to drive other cabs, or use another amplifier to drive the internal speaker. I considered using a switch to make the connection, but went with the jumper connection in order to prevent the connection of an external speaker while the internal one was connected ( drops the impedance below 8ohms), and to prevent the connection of two amplifiers to the internal speaker. It's a simple, fool proof solution.

Aha, of course, thank you!
Indeed a simple and fool proof solution, very cool and very flexible.

 

[Michael B]

Install a jack plate (Penn Elcom from Parts Express) with openings for female 1/4 inch (mono) and speakon jacks. Disconnect the speaker end of the wire inside the cab and connect it to the 1/4inch jack. Add a wire connecting the speaker to the speakon jack. The 1/4 inch Jack is now the output Jack for he internal amplifier. The speakon connector is now the Jack for the internal speaker/cab. Make a short cable with male 1/4 inch and speakon jacks. Use the cable to connect the internal amplifier and speaker. You can also use the internal amplifier to drive other cabs, or use another amplifier to drive the internal speaker. I considered using a switch to make the connection, but went with the jumper connection in order to prevent the connection of an external speaker while the internal one was connected ( drops the impedance below 8ohms), and to prevent the connection of two amplifiers to the internal speaker. It's a simple, fool proof solution.

That's awesome. Thinking of doing this for the 200 combo. Run it with a 500 head. So flexible:
- run 200c normally
- run 200c with extension
- run 500 head with 200 as cab
- run 500 with 200 as cab and another extension for 500
- probably never needed: run 200c and 500 with extension together

I also have a 100c. Considering the reinforcement that some have done on the 40. I believe it may benefit from that.

Running the 100 and 200 together is really fun as well.

 

[Nathan Keller]

Install a jack plate (Penn Elcom from Parts Express) with openings for female 1/4 inch (mono) and speakon jacks. Disconnect the speaker end of the wire inside the cab and connect it to the 1/4inch jack. Add a wire connecting the speaker to the speakon jack. The 1/4 inch Jack is now the output Jack for he internal amplifier. The speakon connector is now the Jack for the internal speaker/cab. Make a short cable with male 1/4 inch and speakon jacks. Use the cable to connect the internal amplifier and speaker. You can also use the internal amplifier to drive other cabs, or use another amplifier to drive the internal speaker. I considered using a switch to make the connection, but went with the jumper connection in order to prevent the connection of an external speaker while the internal one was connected ( drops the impedance below 8ohms), and to prevent the connection of two amplifiers to the internal speaker. It's a simple, fool proof solution.

Hi AstroSonic. Any thoughts on how a FaitalPro 10PR300 might sound in the Rumble 40 v3? That vs the S2010? Had you considered it at any point?

 

[AstroSonic]

Well, I haven't used a Faital 10PR300, so my comments will be based on my experience wi other Faital drivers, and on the published specs.

Relative to the S2010 (in the Rumble 40) the Faital ( and not the 16 ohm version being sold by Avatar) will sound more hifi with smoother upper mids and a little more extended highs. It will also have a more lean (more articulate), less extended (deep) bass. It will also be 1-2 db more sensitive, so slightly louder.

The S2010 has somewhat more prominent (aggressive) upper mids,and more extended, richer bass.

I like the Faital sound for electric upright, and the S2010 for bass guitar.

 

[eric_B]

OK, for anyone who is interested: here is a thread with some pictures of the mod I did.

Thanks again AstroSonic, it works great!

 

[portabass]

I've only read some of the Rumble 40 comments but I got one last week and it is my new favorite bass amp.
I lugged a TC electronics RH 450 with a LDS 12 cab to a small lounge jam, small drum kit, guitar through a Deluxe, saxophone, and a small PA. Bass rig sounded fine but it took one more cable and space in my car plus more weight. Two weeks later I spent an hour in Guitar Center ABing The Rumble 100 and 40 side by side. Couldn't believe how great they sounded. I was concerned about a volume and presence issue and was leaning toward the 100. But I fell hard for the sound of the 40. This thing made the american standard Precision sound sweet and full. The tone, gain and volume controls at 12 o'clock provided a perfect sound. I found the contour and vintage buttons added nice variations on an already plug and play great sound. I took it too the same lounge jam and the drummer said he couldn't hear his floor tom. I started to be a smart as and tell him to bring a bigger tom, but the guy is a professional drummer and his kits always sound very good. I don't know how they did it but Fender made a beautiful bass amp for relative peanuts. I hope Leo Fender would be proud.

 

[jallenbass]

Played a jazz gig with my new Rumble 40. I used my home built bass inspired by the Rob Allen Mouse 30. The picture shows the settings that ended up sounding best for that room, group and bass. About half way through the 4 hours I noticed the sound solidifying and I assume the speaker had finally broken in. I did the mods prescribed by AstroSonic by closing one port and adding dampening material to the bottom and one side. I'm very happy with it.

 

[Nathan Keller]

Glad you are pleased with the result. I think that many players needing a small rig for practice and coffee house (or praise!), and who desire a rich, clean, clear tone will find this mod a good solution. I like the weight, form factor and amp/preamp capabilities of the new Fender Rumbles, but am put off by the 'old school' voicing of the cabs. For me this was a real transformation. I encourage you to consider adding the jack plate. You can then use the cab with different amps, and be able to use a backup head. I have used it with the internal amp for coffee house gigs, and used it outside in a courtyard setting with a micro head. I've also made a Rumble 40 'twin': The Rumble is stacked on top of the twin, and run in parallel connected to a micro head (GK MB500). Principle gains are a little deeper bass, higher efficiency, and a significant improvement in audibility, on stage and in the audience. The two small cabs are a very easy carry. Thanks for the feedback!

Hi AstroSonic. Are you still using the twin? Does that mean it contains two speakers? 8"? Are the dimensions the same as the Fender Rumble 40 v3? Do you have some pix of that stack? Just wondering. I did have the Rumble 40 + Rumble 100 stack that a couple do here...but ended up keeping only the Rumble 40 due to preferring the sound. I had tried that stack with the Rumble 40 line out into the Rumble 100 regular input. Also same but with Harrison FMOD 50 Hz inline crossovers, just one, then two, on the feed to the 100. Not bad but not necessarily better than the Fender Rumble 40 alone. Still, I can't not be curious about a Rumble 40 stack. P.S. I never pulled the trigger on the Faital speaker swap for the stock 40's speaker.

 

[AstroSonic]

The 'twin' is a twin cabinet with the same driver (S2010) and tuning. I have Jack plates on each that allows them to be operated in parallel. It way transforms the tone and volume capability of the combo. The twin tower has the same small footprint as the Rumble 40, and projects the sound much more effectively to the audience, and to the player.

The twin really is the same size as the Rumble 40, but appears smaller due to camera angle.

 

[Nathan Keller]

The 'twin' is a twin cabinet with the same driver (S2010) and tuning. I have Jack plates on each that allows them to be operated in parallel. It way transforms the tone and volume capability of the combo. The twin tower has the same small footprint as the Rumble 40, and projects the sound much more effectively to the audience, and to the player.

The twin really is the same size as the Rumble 40, but appears smaller due to camera angle.

That is sweet. Nice job on that cab. Did you go back to the S2010 from the Dayton for your rumble 40? regardless of the speakers inside, I'm sure that sounds excellent. From what I heard, the 100 couldn't dial in what the 40 could do. Maybe the 100 could get there with the mods people are doing...but I really doubted it and couldn't risk it...an added bonus was that I prefer the 40's footprint. The 40 stack makes total sense to me, especially if acquired over time. Again, nice job.

 

[AstroSonic]

I love the tone of the Dayton. It just sounds amazing. But using only the 40w internal amp, it was too limited in volume for the small gigs that the S2010 handled easily. Single or as a pair, they really ate up the power. They will eventually end up in a 210. They thrive on power, and fortunately can handle a lot. The S2010's are substantially louder, lighter and not far behind in tone. A pair of them can really rock with that Ashdown 30w tube head. if I were just using the amp at home for practice I would have kept the Dayton in. You can't believe the tone coming out of that little box- like a miniaturized full sized rig.

 

[Nathan Keller]

I wonder what the rumble 40 box would sound like outfitted with swapped amp/electronics of a rumble 100 (cab cutting would be involved) and the Dayton. And then a pair of those.

 

[jallenbass]

Use two 2" dia. ports 2 5/8" long. The Parts Express 2" dia. Precision port tubes fit the stock holes perfectly.

Is this the one that you used?

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[AstroSonic]

Is this the one that you used?

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I used just the two inch by seven inches long port tube:268-366. Not the entire flared port kit. The tubing fits perfectly. Just cut two pieces to length.