Hello, is there any easy trick for a brass nut(original) equivalent to the baking soda and superglue on bone or plastic nuts to fill a slot? I got this Carvin LB50 and it is just perfect, except the G string slot, that is cut too low, causing the string buzz with the open note.
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Filling a slot in a brass nut
- Thread starter Cartentoya
- Start date
Turnaround
Commercial User
If you are sure that the neck relief is right, then the solution is a thin shim under the nut, then cut the other slots down to suit.
I had a similar issue with a 6 string bass where the high-C slot was cut too low. A local tech used a thin shim that only lifted that side of the nut. The rest of the strings were barely affected, and the bass plays and sounds great (I haven’t noticed any negative effects from not having the shim go all the way across the nut). The only other option was having a new nut made since few techs are willing to deal with filling the slot on a brass nut (it takes very high heat to get brass to stick to anything).
You could also just have a bone nut made. I doubt you’ll hear a difference, nor should it affect the value much if at all.
You could also just have a bone nut made. I doubt you’ll hear a difference, nor should it affect the value much if at all.
Great idea, altough the nut is original from more than 40 years ago, I'm afraid of it being difficult to take out or hurting the first fret doing this in some way.
A tiny piece of card on just that side of the nut, I like that, so I'm not dealing with the other strings moving too much
A brass nut? Shouldn't be hard to remove. You can either fill the slot with brass braze or silver solder, refile and polish it up, or shim it as Richard suggested.
Personally, I would braze up the deep slot, but you might not have the tools to do this.
Personally, I would braze up the deep slot, but you might not have the tools to do this.
Following up on what Riis asked, if that 1st fret clearance is OK, the buzz may be coming from the back of the nut slot (closest to the headstock).
If so, you can file a back relief in the slot so that the string is only touching at the front of the slot (closest to the fretboard).
If so, you can file a back relief in the slot so that the string is only touching at the front of the slot (closest to the fretboard).
There is zero gap on the first fret, hence the problem, slot is cut too low. I was thinking trying a .50 string so it stands higher on the nut, but I love my .45, so I think I will have to try the little shim under.
You can get sheet brass stock at most Hobby/Model shops, it’s easy to cut with sheet metal shears, and you might only need one piece of it.
Good “temporary” measure (temporary if you can’t live with it). You can get .005” brass sheet, cut strips and lay it in the slot. A tiny drop of CA to hold it. Double it up if needed.
Put a new nut on. If you remove that one and send it to that guy who sells brass nuts on eBay, He will make you a new one for about $20. I install brass nuts on my Basses and he has made me quite a few over the last several years. The new one will require a set up.
i think @David76112 is referring to 'Axemasters" on Ebay. He makes decent brass nuts, either blanks or pre-cut. They are semi-finished, still a little polish required if you want it shiny. His Ric nuts are more or less drop in fit, but you or a tech would still have to cut the nut slots to correct depth. A brass sheet metal-thin shim has the advantage of raising the nut in tiny increments, and if filed or sanded flush with the nut edges, would be nearly invisible. Making a new brass nut from scratch is harder than it looks, took me three tries to get it right on my last build. One stroke too many filing the nut slots and it's toast (or you have to shim it.)
When in doubt, ask Susan. She’s checking her studio for “copper tooling foil”. Per online sources, the garden variety stock runs .004” in thickness which would probably be appropriate given your target.
Riis
If not already mentioned, you can buy very thin sheets brass at a hobby store (are there still hobby stores?). Or check eBay. And you can cut a little piece with scissors and glue it into the slot with super glue and then use a fret file or whatever to cut it down to the right depth.
Good luck! Shouldn't be too difficult to fix.
Good luck! Shouldn't be too difficult to fix.
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Brass sheet is a good shout. You can get it in various thicknesses on eBay. I do this to make neck shims. Cut it with your wife’s best nail scissors (don’t get caught)
You should be able to source the exact thickness required if you do your calculations correctly
You should be able to source the exact thickness required if you do your calculations correctly
i hadn't thought of copper shielding tape, that's actually a prett good option, metal, so it's non compressible, and you could fine tune it upward one piece at a time. Might end up looking kind of cool, with a sliver of copper showing under the brass.
Just for reference, copper shielding tape is 0.0025" thick, two and a half thousandths overall. The copper is 0.0010" (one thousandth) thick and the Mylar backing with adhesive is 0.0015" (one and a half thousandth) thick. I know, because I've personally measured it. I do things like that around here.
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