Finishing sequence

[Robthebastard58]

so I'm not quite at the finishing stage yet, I'm doing a kit bass before I pony up and buy a neck through blank from Carvin for my next build which is the next step for me. I've done one kit before although I'm finishing this one differently this time than last in am unproven process. I'm going for a nuclear burst type dye job and was thinking a light blond wash coat or two. Followed by a neutral grain filler, not sure whether water or solvent base, followed by a few cans of Behlen so rattle can lacquer. The reason is I want a hard flat surface to show the depth of figure in the bird's eye maple veneer top. Is this the right direction? I'm familiar with all the between coat drying and sanding cycles then wet sanding. I'm asking about materials and process.

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

so I'm not quite at the finishing stage yet, I'm doing a kit bass before I pony up and buy a neck through blank from Carvin for my next build which is the next step for me. I've done one kit before although I'm finishing this one differently this time than last in am unproven process. I'm going for a nuclear burst type dye job and was thinking a light blond wash coat or two. Followed by a neutral grain filler, not sure whether water or solvent base, followed by a few cans of Behlen so rattle can lacquer. The reason is I want a hard flat surface to show the depth of figure in the bird's eye maple veneer top. Is this the right direction? I'm familiar with all the between coat drying and sanding cycles then wet sanding. I'm asking about materials and process.

You don't need to sand between coats with behlen laquer. The new coat will "burn" into the previous one. Wet sand only if there is any drips/runs.

 

[Robthebastard58]

You don't need to sand between coats with behlen laquer. The new coat will "burn" into the previous one. Wet sand only if there is any drips/runs.

Ok what about the process? Does that seems right to you. Shellac, grain filler paste, followed by lacquer?

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

I haven't used shellac nor done dye burst type of finish before. So I might not be the right person to ask.

From what I know, shellac will seal the wood, so if you wanted to dye the wood, it will not absorb it.

However, if you are going with natural look type of finish, than your process should be good.

All the best.

 

[Robthebastard58]

I haven't used shellac nor done dye burst type of finish before. So I might not be the right person to ask.

From what I know, shellac will seal the wood, so if you wanted to dye the wood, it will not absorb it.

However, if you are going with natural look type of finish, than your process should be good.

All the best.

I'm going to do the dye job before sealing and finishing.

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

I'm going to do the dye job before sealing and finishing.

I re-read your previous posts, if you are going to use a grain filler paste, you might want to do that as your first step.
I said that because you might need to sand the bass to remove some excess paste. If you did the dye or sealer before the grain fill, you will sand off your colour, and you don't want that.

Just a friendly reminder, test every single step you want to perform to your bass, in a scrap piece of wood first. Preferably the same species of wood, so it will minimise the guess work.

Looking forward to your progress.

All the best.

 

[Robthebastard58]

I re-read your previous posts, if you are going to use a grain filler paste, you might want to do that as your first step.
I said that because you might need to sand the bass to remove some excess paste. If you did the dye or sealer before the grain fill, you will sand off your colour, and you don't want that.

Just a friendly reminder, test every single step you want to perform to your bass, in a scrap piece of wood first. Preferably the same species of wood, so it will minimise the guess work.

Looking forward to your progress.

All the best.

Will applying the grain filler before shellac have any negative effect on the ability for the grain to by seen? Or depth and clarity to be compromised? That's the main thing here, I'm aiming for a high gloss, very clear hard finish that highlights the grain pattern. Clear, hard, highlighting finish. That's what I want.

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

Will applying the grain filler before shellac have any negative effect on the ability for the grain to by seen? Or depth and clarity to be compromised? That's the main thing here, I'm aiming for a high gloss, very clear hard finish that highlights the grain pattern. Clear, hard, highlighting finish. That's what I want.

The problem is, most grain filler paste will not dry clear. If the wood you are using has closed pores, like maple for example, you can skip the grain fill step. You will still achieve high gloss.

If the wood has open pores, african mahogany for example, you need to grain fill it, to achieve high gloss. However, the grain filler would be visible.

Alternatively, you can use epoxy to fill the pores, and it will dry clear. However, epoxy will completely seal the wood too, so shellac might not give you any benefits.

 

[Robthebastard58]

The problem is, most grain filler paste will not dry clear. If the wood you are using has closed pores, like maple for example, you can skip the grain fill step. You will still achieve high gloss.

If the wood has open pores, african mahogany for example, you need to grain fill it, to achieve high gloss. However, the grain filler would be visible.

Alternatively, you can use epoxy to fill the pores, and it will dry clear. However, epoxy will completely seal the wood too, so shellac might not give you any benefits.

Its bird's eye maple veneer over ash body. I have to have as clear a finish as possible. That I thought grain fill after wash coat of shellac, that way the wood is sealed, figure clear fill over that, sand high spots and then start building up the lacquer.

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

Its bird's eye maple veneer over ash body. I have to have as clear a finish as possible. That I thought grain fill after wash coat of shellac, that way the wood is sealed, figure clear fill over that, sand high spots and then start building up the lacquer.

That would work too. Test it first though, so you are comfortable with the process.

 

[Lonnybass]

You may not need to use grain filler at all on the maple facing - just the ash core. I've never needed to use grain filler on maple when I've done dye color burst finishes and they turned out great.

However - you also mentioned wanting to show off the depth of figuring in the maple, but didn't seem to account for this in your sequence.

This is typically done by using a sand back process. You want to apply a dark contrast dye to the board, then sand most of it off. The dye will go only into the rays, so once a lighter color is applied over that you get the amazing three-dimensional depth.

Lonnybass

 

[Robthebastard58]

You may not need to use grain filler at all on the maple facing - just the ash core. I've never needed to use grain filler on maple when I've done dye color burst finishes and they turned out great.

However - you also mentioned wanting to show off the depth of figuring in the maple, but didn't seem to account for this in your sequence.

This is typically done by using a sand back process. You want to apply a dark contrast dye to the board, then sand most of it off. The dye will go only into the rays, so once a lighter color is applied over that you get the amazing three-dimensional depth.

Lonnybass

Thanks Lonny. This is sort of my test run on a kit before I go for a neck through build where I can't mess up because the body and neck are joined.

 

[Harry Cahyadi]

This is typically done by using a sand back process. You want to apply a dark contrast dye to the board, then sand most of it off. The dye will go only into the rays, so once a lighter color is applied over that you get the amazing three-dimensional depth.

Lonnybass

Lonny,

I didn't mean to argue with your point, but I thought the sand back process is more appropriate to be used on flamed or quilted maple. Am I right?

 

[Lonnybass]

Lonny,

I didn't mean to argue with your point, but I thought the sand back process is more appropriate to be used on flamed or quilted maple. Am I right?

No worries my friend. It should work (to at least some degree!) on just about any kind of board with contrasting rays, or in this case, eyes.

Lonnybass