Great work! While you have top off, carve out an electronics cavity too.
Wouldn't you carve the electronics cavity from the bottom? Or would you go all the way through to the top?
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First bass build - piezo fretless
- Thread starter JLW
- Start date
Wouldn't you carve the electronics cavity from the bottom? Or would you go all the way through to the top?
- Apr 18, 2008
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- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Is your new top also 1/4" thick? If so, then it's the right thickness for mounting controls, so you can cut the cavity all the way through before gluing the top on.
Okay guys! It's been a while but I have quite a few updates:
1. I made a control cavity plate that mirrors the pattern on the top. This control plate is black acrylic laser etched. The 'lighter' parts of the pattern are the engraved etched area and the 'darker' parts are glossy black.
2. I re-shaped the headstock. Right now it's just rough-sanded. This started out as a Fender neck but I always found that the headstock was a bit too bulbous for my liking. This isn't really my first choice for a headstock shape, but I was obviously limited by the original headstock shape and could only shape within the established fender outline.
3. I colored the inside of the hollow chambered area to be RED! You can see it through the hole in the top. I think it looks pretty cool.
4. I added a contour to the neck heel area for easier access to the higher frets in the bass. I also smoothed out the edges of the bass's outline but I forgot to take a picture. I'll take a pic when I round out the edges and glue the top etc.
1. I made a control cavity plate that mirrors the pattern on the top. This control plate is black acrylic laser etched. The 'lighter' parts of the pattern are the engraved etched area and the 'darker' parts are glossy black.
2. I re-shaped the headstock. Right now it's just rough-sanded. This started out as a Fender neck but I always found that the headstock was a bit too bulbous for my liking. This isn't really my first choice for a headstock shape, but I was obviously limited by the original headstock shape and could only shape within the established fender outline.
3. I colored the inside of the hollow chambered area to be RED! You can see it through the hole in the top. I think it looks pretty cool.
4. I added a contour to the neck heel area for easier access to the higher frets in the bass. I also smoothed out the edges of the bass's outline but I forgot to take a picture. I'll take a pic when I round out the edges and glue the top etc.
I shaped the body contours. I don't have a belt sander so I had to do it by hand. Wasn't too bad overall. I also added a little contour to the lower bout as well as by the neck pocket. Upon closer inspection I'm noticing that the belly contour on the upper bout has a bit of a flat spot. I'll fix it tomorrow.
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Glued the top on and added a bevel. There's a walnut veneer in between the top and the main body.
I realized that the bevel actually cuts out a lot of the surface area where the top touches the body. Because this is a semi-hollow body, there is a risk of the top delaminating along the edges since there's only about 0.3" of contact in some small areas....but I didn't think of this until after I finished cutting the bevel! Does anyone know how I might prevent delamination (besides maximizing surface area, which it is too late for?)
Also, the reason why there are darker dots all over the top is because it started drizzling as I took the pictures.
I realized that the bevel actually cuts out a lot of the surface area where the top touches the body. Because this is a semi-hollow body, there is a risk of the top delaminating along the edges since there's only about 0.3" of contact in some small areas....but I didn't think of this until after I finished cutting the bevel! Does anyone know how I might prevent delamination (besides maximizing surface area, which it is too late for?)
Also, the reason why there are darker dots all over the top is because it started drizzling as I took the pictures.
While the question may be premature, but just curious what I plan to use for piezo pickup, preamp, and output buffer? Thanks.
I'm using the ghost bridge saddles with the ghost piezo buffer. No preamp, although the system does have a tone knob and a mid/dark switch (basically boosts mids or bass)
Anyone know how to fix or cover this up? See pic; area around jack cup has a big tear-out.
I used a 3/4" spade bit which was a tiny bit too small to fit the input jack cup. So I had to go up to 7/8", but because the holes were so similar in size, it caused some pretty nasty tear-out.
I was thinking I could find some black metal washers that have an inside diameter of 7/8" and an outside diameter of 1 1/16" or something. Kinda bummed about this honestly.
I used a 3/4" spade bit which was a tiny bit too small to fit the input jack cup. So I had to go up to 7/8", but because the holes were so similar in size, it caused some pretty nasty tear-out.
I was thinking I could find some black metal washers that have an inside diameter of 7/8" and an outside diameter of 1 1/16" or something. Kinda bummed about this honestly.
Another option is a felt washer. Will look like you are protecting the wood instead of covering something up 
If you want to fix and not cover it up, search your sawdust for little pieces that may fit and glue them in. Since the pieces are small, scissors will work fine to cut of the excess. Resist the temptation to trim it before the glue is dry. Also, use a glue that won't keep the finish from soaking into the wood. So a CA glue is better than something like Tightbond for this. Go slow and carefully and you will have a good result. You could also use the CA glue as a finish after it's in and trimmed since it is clear.
I'll try this method first. If it still doesn't look good I'll try some of the other suggestions.
Thanks everyone
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Added my first 4 coats of sanding sealer. There were a few small dents and fissures in the finish, so I've just begun to drop-fill them with lacquer using a small paintbrush. How long should I wait to sand the drop-filled areas?
The nitro finish was coming along nicely until just now. I only need maybe another 2 or 3 coats until this happened.....
I think I laid the last finish on a bit too thick, or maybe I didn't wait long enough in between coats, and this happened:
So first thing's first. How do I fix the bubble? I was thinking I'd just wait for it to cure tomorrow and sand it back and re-apply the lacquer. Any idea of how I might keep this from happening again?
Second thing, there are still a couple little pock marks from the pores of the mahogany. Does this come down to just sanding and refinishing in order to build up a flat surface? Any tips or shortcuts? Thanks.
I think I laid the last finish on a bit too thick, or maybe I didn't wait long enough in between coats, and this happened:
So first thing's first. How do I fix the bubble? I was thinking I'd just wait for it to cure tomorrow and sand it back and re-apply the lacquer. Any idea of how I might keep this from happening again?
Second thing, there are still a couple little pock marks from the pores of the mahogany. Does this come down to just sanding and refinishing in order to build up a flat surface? Any tips or shortcuts? Thanks.
I sanded the bubbles back down to the bare wood. Frustrating to say the least. I put down another couple coats of nitro on that area...it will probably require another 6-8 coats before it gets to the same color as the surrounding wood.
Also, this is my high tech spray booth in case you were wondering.
Also, this is my high tech spray booth in case you were wondering.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,015
- 1
- 31,730
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
You idiot!! Everybody knows the finish will breathe more (for better tonez) if you clean that rust off the underside of the handlebars first!!! Sheesh...
