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First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

#181
Yup. Got amazing pricing on electronics. The Rautia pickup by all accounts is incredible. And I can't thank Carl enough for not only hooking me up with one of his pre-amps, but also going out of his way to hook me up with the other gizmos that compose the innards of the SB.

I'll guestimate the total wood cost at 150 or so since I went from dimensional lumber and not pre-cut luthier supply. Yeah, I spent quite a bit for the wood, but after ripping boards, I have a ton left over for other builds.
 
#182
Imminently-pending workflow items:

1. Neck thickness from top of blank to where it will join body (pending numbers from my current SB-1000)

2. Cut Scarf (pending angle measurement from my current SB-1000)

3. Thickness headstock

4. Add wings to headstock

5. Shape headstock

6. Tuner holes with drill press

7. Glue scarf

8. Route truss rod channel

9. Taper neck, body markings to nut (table saw taper jig to a stop, complete wood removal with bandsaw)

10. Pencil-mark fingerboard

11. Rough-cut fingerboard on bandsaw


Here is my next stumble-zone, as far as thinking this out. Both the angled headstock and the radiused fingerboard potentially present router flush bit issues. Is there a "standard way" to handle final-trimming the fingerboard for a neck that has a scarf joint? Since the scarf will be between neck blank and fingerboard, it seems I am going to run into an issue properly getting the fingerboard flush with the taper unless I cut it separately. Advice most welcome, as usual!
 
#183
PDX
How are you going to thickness the headstock? I'm planning on doing mine with a router in an angle jig with the already angled top of headstock down. I was going to glue the headstock wings on first so I can thickness the whole thing at once, and cut to headstock shape. Is there an advantage to thicknessing before putting the headstock wings on? The whole sequence/workflow issue is often a point of confusion for me, I keep realizing X should have come before Y when it's too late to change the sequence.
 
#184
Gilmourisgod said:
PDX
How are you going to thickness the headstock? I'm planning on doing mine with a router in an angle jig with the already angled top of headstock down. I was going to glue the headstock wings on first so I can thickness the whole thing at once, and cut to headstock shape. Is there an advantage to thicknessing before putting the headstock wings on? The whole sequence/workflow issue is often a point of confusion for me, I keep realizing X should have come before Y when it's too late to change the sequence.
Click to expand...

I plan to use the bandsaw and belt sander to thickness the headstock. There is also the option of router jig (I have yet to build one) or even the Safe-T-Planer (as long as there is not much material to remove). With that said, to glue wings first and then thickness? Maybe that is the best way, maybe not. I am assuming that I will get a very slight shift from clamping wings on headstock, so more leveling will be needed, even if it is 1/64". Also, I have so little clearance on my bandsaw as it is. I think the wings will be slightly too much there...

Reason number 234 why I am glad this is all being documented in this thread. I'll need to do a big post-mortem after this is said and done and come up with a better workflow! :D
 
#185
I haven't worked with a pre-radiused board yet, but as far as the headstock angle goes, I take some strips of mdf and stack them under the neck just enough to hold the neck up to where the headstock isn't forcing the neck up at an angle when laid down.

For the radius issue, I think you'd probably need to put something flat on top of the fretboard, but you'd need to figure out how to either prop up the edges so it doesn't rock back and forth or have the bottom of it be concave to fit on the radius.

I would glue the wings to the headstock before thicknessing so you don't have to thickness twice.
 
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#186
lbridenstine said:
I haven't worked with a pre-radiused board yet, but as far as the headstock angle goes, I take some strips of mdf and stack them under the neck just enough to hold the neck up to where the headstock isn't forcing the neck up at an angle when laid down.

For the radius issue, I think you'd probably need to put something flat on top of the fretboard, but you'd need to figure out how to either prop up the edges so it doesn't rock back and forth or have the bottom of it be concave to fit on the radius.

I would glue the wings to the headstock before thicknessing so you don't have to thickness twice.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Mathias had a good idea of using small, half-round dowels to level the fingerboard. That seems like a good bet.
 
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#187
Goodies from Finland!

Rautia custom Sb-1000 pickup and awesomeness by @Prostheta ! Carl, you are awesome, sir!

No build updates, otherwise. Been a long work week. More this weekend!

image.jpg
 
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#191
You got it, Carl!

Hardware:

So, anyone know a good source for this style of knob? I have my doubts about finding the rotary knob, but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask! FYI, I grabbed this picture off of Ebay. This is one of the new APII SB-1000 B. I've also seen a lovely almond burst there!

As for the rotary markers, I was thinking maybe side dot material? Not really sure... I guess I'll put more effort into the final finishing, etc when my project gets closer to completion...

03241413_5510f27bd54f8.jpg
 
#192
PDX Rich said:
You got it, Carl!

Hardware:

So, anyone know a good source for this style of knob? I have my doubts about finding the rotary knob, but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask! FYI, I grabbed this picture off of Ebay. This is one of the new APII SB-1000 B. I've also seen a lovely almond burst there!

As for the rotary markers, I was thinking maybe side dot material? Not really sure... I guess I'll put more effort into the final finishing, etc when my project gets closer to completion...

View attachment 595335
Click to expand...
These knobs are reasonably common on electronics. look around locally and you should be able to get some cheaply. The markers in my SB_CB are simply small brass nails. Any hardware store can sell you those. If they are too long clip them off and file to sharpen them.
 
#193
PDX Rich said:
You got it, Carl!

Hardware:

So, anyone know a good source for this style of knob? I have my doubts about finding the rotary knob, but I figure it doesn't hurt to ask! FYI, I grabbed this picture off of Ebay. This is one of the new APII SB-1000 B. I've also seen a lovely almond burst there!

As for the rotary markers, I was thinking maybe side dot material? Not really sure... I guess I'll put more effort into the final finishing, etc when my project gets closer to completion...

View attachment 595335
Click to expand...
Granted, these basses are pretty. I just can't get over covering up the laminates. If the body was one solid colour I would have no problem, but the laminates are so pretty and part of the heritage.
 
#196
Lonnybass said:
Are these the knobs you're looking for?

Invalid Link Removed

For the rotary markers, you could do side dot material, Luminlays or even a dowel inlay made from a contrasting wood.

Lonnybass
Click to expand...

Those look right, but for some reason I can't abide by plastic except for the knobs on my Les Paul DC. :D I'll do some digging when I have a chance. Ebay perhaps.

Ok, I am thinking way too far ahead. Glad I finally wrote down my workflow for the next steps.... need to do some measuring and marking to prepare for neck stuff.
 
#197
PDX Rich said:
Those look right, but for some reason I can't abide by plastic except for the knobs on my Les Paul DC. :D I'll do some digging when I have a chance. Ebay perhaps.

Ok, I am thinking way too far ahead. Glad I finally wrote down my workflow for the next steps.... need to do some measuring and marking to prepare for neck stuff.
Click to expand...

Just saw your question regarding the routing of the fingerboard and the potential issue of the taper/radiusing. One thing you might be able to do, if you've got a template for the fingerboard, you could use double-sided tape to attach to the face of the fingerboard, so the router would at least have a flat surface to follow. One thing I've seen Fodera do is use a power belt sander to bring the fingerboard flush tapered with the neck.

I'll tell you what, you're doing all the right things in looking ten steps ahead at your workflows. I spent a good deal of time refining my own approach to where I was comfortable, with the benefit of less mistakes and time lost on "fixes," and safer too. The Six Sigma approach you're taking is well worth it. :-)

Lonnybass
 
#198
Lonnybass said:
Just saw your question regarding the routing of the fingerboard and the potential issue of the taper/radiusing. One thing you might be able to do, if you've got a template for the fingerboard, you could use double-sided tape to attach to the face of the fingerboard, so the router would at least have a flat surface to follow. One thing I've seen Fodera do is use a power belt sander to bring the fingerboard flush tapered with the neck.

I'll tell you what, you're doing all the right things in looking ten steps ahead at your workflows. I spent a good deal of time refining my own approach to where I was comfortable, with the benefit of less mistakes and time lost on "fixes," and safer too. The Six Sigma approach you're taking is well worth it. :)

Lonnybass
Click to expand...

I'll definitely consider that approach. It'd be easy enough to make one since I will be making marks for the eventual neck taper, which of course, the fingerboard will follow.

And I am glad I am not the only one that approaches solutions in this manner. I am a Production DBA by trade (SQL Server), so I am wired this way!
 
#199
PDX Rich said:
I'll definitely consider that approach. It'd be easy enough to make one since I will be making marks for the eventual neck taper, which of course, the fingerboard will follow.

And I am glad I am not the only one that approaches solutions in this manner. I am a Production DBA by trade (SQL Server), so I am wired this way!
Click to expand...

Me too! I'm in the crisis management and business continuity biz - preparedness is the name of the game! One of the most interesting things in the whole build process is improving it...applying business and manufacturing philosophies like Lean, Kaizen, 6Sigma, etc. good stuff!

Lonnybass
 
#200
Lonnybass said:
Me too! I'm in the crisis management and business continuity biz - preparedness is the name of the game! One of the most interesting things in the whole build process is improving it...applying business and manufacturing philosophies like Lean, Kaizen, 6Sigma, etc. good stuff!

Lonnybass
Click to expand...

No kidding? I don't run into too many DBAs in the wild unless I am trying to hire one. Good ol' Business Continuity--I am well-versed. I am in the health care industry now after 8 on the financial side (Merrill Lynch, IBM, etc). It is nice to be with a smaller company now. Step 1: Think of a repeatable process. Step 2: Automate the process. Step 3: lutherie research.

;)
 

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