I still have quite a bit of sanding to do, but it is looking much better. I'll finish sanding the cut end as well as do the neck end tomorrow or Tuesday. I also used a hand plane to smooth out the neck blank where the joint will be.
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First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal
- Thread starter PDX Rich
- Start date
- May 1, 2014
- 2,494
- 2,341
- 56
- Disclosures
- Owner Melodious Resonance Constructs
A bench belt sander would sand that scarf in a couple minutes, but your jig method is probably safer to keep that razor sharp knife edge. I built something similar to cut my headstock angle, which is only 5 degrees, so no scarf.
I wasn't really liking the belt sander for this, although I suppose I could have built a jig for the ROSS mitre slot. I'm feeling good about the manual sanding though!
Sanding....it adds character!
- May 1, 2014
- 2,494
- 2,341
- 56
- Disclosures
- Owner Melodious Resonance Constructs
No doubt! I'll be happy when I finish this particular sanding exercise so I can get on to the next series of challenges.
Think what I will do next time is go extra thick on the neck blank and arrange cut to get two necks! Maybe neck-through + bolt-neck or two bolt-necks. Seems while the scarf is a good method, it is not the most efficient time-wise, and requires a bit more planning. I am sure some of you folks rock-star them in a matter of minutes, however!
No doubt! I'll be happy when I finish this particular sanding exercise so I can get on to the next series of challenges.
Think what I will do next time is go extra thick on the neck blank and arrange cut to get two necks! Maybe neck-through + bolt-neck or two bolt-necks. Seems while the scarf is a good method, it is not the most efficient time-wise, and requires a bit more planning. I am sure some of you folks rock-star them in a matter of minutes, however!
The two-plank neck method is the way to go - better yields and the wider blanks can result in a glued-up billet that is potentially more square. In my own experience, I find the time required to make a scarf is preferable to cutting out a wide-neck headstock angle on the bandsaw and then sanding out the machine marks. The wide neck element is probably the biggest challenge with the slice-in-half element - especially when using heavy dense woods like wenge, maple, etc., it's a LOT of work on your everyday 10" table saw or bandsaw to make a 40" long cut through 4 or 5 inches of exotic wood. Just something to keep in mind in terms of tooling.
Lonnybass
Yeah, Popeye-like forearms are a Chick-Magnet! Plus, I've had some interesting wood projectile episodes with a bench sander, no need to discuss the ugly details here. Suffice to say that the resultant road-rash on my knuckles only took about a month to heal.
Hopkins
Commercial User
If your head stock is not long enough as it stands, you will gain a little extra length if you thickness the headstock from the top side.
With the scarf cut being an underside mount, I have the length I need plus extra, as I had planned. My mistake was to make the cut where the nut will be as opposed to back a bit, which would have facilitated the top mount as well as given me the head stock length.. Not a huge deal, but I'll likely need to veneer the head stock to cover the joint.
This is true. If it is just blade wear, then I wouldn't blink. 62" band saw blades are certainly inexpensive compared to the cost/time taken in laminating the blank.
I suppose that can be tough on the motor, however.
I am loving the grain in the dark brown wood. That makes me suspect you are using too fine a sandpaper. Stay 220 or maybe a few finer but no more. the glue needs a "tooth" to adhere best. Maybe that sounds old school but I am old school.
That is actually what i was using. Switched to 100
Thanks! The laminate is maple. Walnut. Purpleheart. Walnut. Maple.
Thanks! The laminate is maple. Walnut. Purpleheart. Walnut. Maple.
Not sure if you are still looking for knobs or not, but I came across these.
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They are definitely a little small and certainly not an exact match so they won't fit your needs if you are making a precise replica, but I think you'll be hard-pressed to find non-plastic exact matches and personally I dig the small triangle indicator over the dot. Gives it its own style.
Also they appear to be a surplus item, not new stock, and I don't know if the pricing will make you buy in bulk... But I think it is worth a look-see.
Digging the build!
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They are definitely a little small and certainly not an exact match so they won't fit your needs if you are making a precise replica, but I think you'll be hard-pressed to find non-plastic exact matches and personally I dig the small triangle indicator over the dot. Gives it its own style.
Also they appear to be a surplus item, not new stock, and I don't know if the pricing will make you buy in bulk... But I think it is worth a look-see.
Digging the build!
Thanks!
Those actually may fit the bill, as far as look, being not-plastic and fitting the post.
Those actually may fit the bill, as far as look, being not-plastic and fitting the post.
As I was sanding last night, I noticed that the sides of the scarf were sanding down much quicker than the middle. Then I noticed that my "sanding block on rails" had begun to lose integrity due to the screws (used pilot holes, of course). So, I am going to need to make another block using glue to hold things together. Luckily, there is no damage done, aside from the time. I should be able to get a new block put together tonight and get back at it Thursday.
I assumed 3/4" MDF would hold up, but sanding is an awful lot of strain. Future heavy-use jigs will be made of proper wood, for longevity sake.
I assumed 3/4" MDF would hold up, but sanding is an awful lot of strain. Future heavy-use jigs will be made of proper wood, for longevity sake.
Slow week, but I was able to get some time in tonight. I got the scarf joint surfaces as good as I could. In order to counter the shifting that occurs when pressure is applied at an angle, I rigged up a jig of sorts to hold the bits where they should not shift. Thanks Internet!
I also did a little sanding in upper body wing to erase router burn. You can see my spindle sander mess up, but I can get that out with some effort.
I put a little mineral spirits on the scarf ends to clean them prior to gluing. They were dry by the time I had the jig set up.
I also did a little sanding in upper body wing to erase router burn. You can see my spindle sander mess up, but I can get that out with some effort.
I put a little mineral spirits on the scarf ends to clean them prior to gluing. They were dry by the time I had the jig set up.
Interesting side note: I had ordered a 62" 3/8 6 TPI blade for my teeny 9" bandsaw (maximum blade width for my saw). As I was installing, the damn thing snapped! Powertec is the brand, and shoddy welding is no bueno. Sure glad it broke before I actually turned the saw on! The Amazon retailer was good about a refund, but I certainly will find a better blade source... Unfortunately, this Ryobi saw just has so many limitations. Hopefully I can upgrade the saw in the somewhat near future. Will need to bird dog CL for a deal. It would be nice to relegate the Ryobi to template duty.
Unclamped the scarf tonight. Good joint aside from the slight offset I needed to do on the top. Belt sanded then hand planed the top.
There is a slight twist that I will hand plane out Thursday. I will also need to fill the small gap with something after I glue the wings on, then go to the store and pick out a top veneer.
There is a slight twist that I will hand plane out Thursday. I will also need to fill the small gap with something after I glue the wings on, then go to the store and pick out a top veneer.
Learning enough about scarf joints from various builders to be wary of them, gonna have to practice some on scrap until I figure out what works with the tools I have , or jigs I can build. So far belt sanding two faces together seems like the safest. Looking good, that laminate sandwich is cool.
