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First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

#265
PDX Rich said:
My hipshot is ~56mm. According to Mathias math I'll need 54mm e-g for this to work.
Click to expand...

Don't trust that 54mm number too much, that was just a seat-of-the pants estimate using a stretched photo in Photoshop.
You can use this excellent fret calculator to figure out the exact numbers:

http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/

It allows you to set variables like the string spacing at bridge and the nut. For the full nut width you also have to specify your preferred spacing outside the E and G strings. Then you can export the image as a PDF, and make your measurements in an image editing software.

I plugged in some numbers, and it looks like you might be in luck. With a 38mm nut and 56mm neck width at the 21st fret, your string spacing at the bridge will be 56mm. So if you don't narrow the neck any further, and if your neck joint falls around the 21st fret, you'll be able to use your 56mm bridge!
 
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#266
I'll do some measuring again this evening. I need to make another taper template since my last one crumbled as I was prying it off of the tape (strong stuff!) Maybe I should find some better tape. This stuff is a little too hard core, apparently. Any brand suggestions?

I may just depart from MDF entirely. That stuff is a bit toxic I hear.

Anyway, once I make the template, I can then route the fingerboard.

So, I see differing methods when it comes to fret/inlay/side dot work.... Is it easier to install frets and side dots prior to gluing to the neck?
 
#268
PDX Rich said:
So, I see differing methods when it comes to fret/inlay/side dot work.... Is it easier to install frets and side dots prior to gluing to the neck?
Click to expand...

Unless I have a neck that is a perfectly parallel plank (like a Fender-style bolt-on), I drill and glue the side dots BEFORE I glue the fretboard to the neck. That way I can butt the bottom of the fretboard up against the drill press fence (it has to be a very sturdy fence), and get consistent spacing from the bottom for the dots.
If it's a parallel plank (which yours isn't), I do it after gluing, although either will work fine. Same with the front position dots. Obviously you want to do the front dots before frets, so you can sand them flush.

Fretting a fingerboard before gluing it on is doable, but all those fret tangs wedged into their slots can bow the fretboard a bit (although perhaps not so much in your case, with ebony). If you fret after gluing the fretboard on the neck, you'll have to have a good method of supporting the neck while hammering in the frets.
 
#269
gsnad2000 said:
I glue the fretboard to the neck then I just route to the neck.

Also, for easier template removal, use masking tape on both sides. It makes a huge difference.
Click to expand...

I also like to flush route the fingerboard to the neck, but that's tricky to do in this case, since the angled headstock will prevent you from running it fingerboard-side up (if using a router table), and you can't run it fingerboard-side down, due to the fingerboard radius making things all wobbly.
Obviously there can be workarounds for both those problems.

When building a neck-through, would you attach the fingerboard before or after adding the body wings? If the body wings should go on first, that's another obstacle to flush routing the fingerboard.

Good tip on using masking tape+double stick. I'll probably use it for some situations, but three layers is a lot of tape for everyday situations!
 
#270
What I've been doing is gluing the fretboard down then flush trim by hand then sand the radius. Good question about neck thru's, I haven't done one yet so I don't know what I would do.

As to the tape...3 layers is a lot in what way? Too thick or not cost effective? Just curious what you mean there. Ive also seen people use the masking tape but with super glue instead of 2sided tape. That might help if your thinking the 3 layers too thick.
 
#271
gsnad2000 said:
What I've been doing is gluing the fretboard down then flush trim by hand then sand the radius. Good question about neck thru's, I haven't done one yet so I don't know what I would do.

As to the tape...3 layers is a lot in what way? Too thick or not cost effective? Just curious what you mean there. Ive also seen people use the masking tape but with super glue instead of 2sided tape. That might help if your thinking the 3 layers too thick.
Click to expand...

Ah, if your fretboard isn't radiused yet, then you have more options. And if you already have a radius, you could probably stick some full-length shims on each side to get a flat, stable platform to run a router on, or to lay against a router table.

3 layers is a lot, compared to 1 layer, in terms of effort (3 times, in fact!). If I, for example, want to stick a template on top of a body to route for a pickup, putting masking tape on both surfaces in addition to double stick is more tedious than just using double stick directly on the wood. When using just one layer, the trick is, of course, learning how much double stick tape is needed to hold things steady, without using so much tape that things are hard to pull apart afterwards.
Nothing too bad about using 3-layers, but I do a lot of double sticking in one project, so it adds up! In terms of thickness or cost, the difference is negligible.
 
#272
Yup, Im too cheap to buy a radius'd fretboard, so that leaves my options wide open. :cool:

I find the extra effort of the triple taping job to be more than made up for by the ease of removal afterwards.
 
#273
I finally had time after much-needed yard work to get a couple things done. I made a new taper template from Baltic birch ply, then router trimmed the fretboard to size using a sandwich jig. I placed the fingerboard scrap between the boards in order to achieve a flush surface for routing.

All of this was clamped to my bench and then routed with a top bearing trim bit.

I then took the ply scrap, jointed, and glued up a little jig to hold my fingerboard for side dot drilling on the drill press tomorrow.


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#274
Phew, back on board. The thread didn't seem to be sending me updates....glad to see this is still progressing nicely, Rich!

Regarding your neck geometry - did you ever see my thread on how I designed a replacement bolt-on neck for an RSB? A bit late now, but it shows my cheating method for scarf joints. I align the two pieces using four drilled holes and temporary screws. These add a little clamping pressure, but most importantly align the two if you're laminating.
http://www.talkbass.com/threads/ari...-gold-neck-build.1072925/reply?quote=15814291
 
#275
PDX
Are you going to drill for side dots before or after radiusing FB? Mine will be bound, so I'm thinking I'll have to wait until the whole thing is radiused, including bound edges, so I can determine where center of binding is. Your build is progressing nicely, so I'm a little jealous! Mine is dead in the water until I work through the spring worklist.
 
#276
I actually ordered my FB pre-slotted and pre-radiiused from LMII. So, my board is ready for side inlay. :) It'll be unbound, so I will need to mix some of the ebony shavings I saved along with some CA glue for edge cleanup.

After the dots, I will move to the actual fretting.

and thanks!

-Rich
 

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