• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal

I used 1/16" brass dowel purchased from Amazon for ~$5 (4 x 12" rods). I used maybe 6" of the stuff so have plenty for other builds. I believe the pictures are on the previous page in this thread.

Aiight. Just asking, because I recently found a great method for if you want to make your own, on YouTube. Good for when you want specific colours for it without any problems with getting it to fit.
It's about 10:30 in this video:

 
Can you get bradpoint bits that small? I will be doing this soon. I have a Jet mortiser with a pretty beefy fence that should work well for side dot s with a bradpoint chucked into it.

Good video. One question, what's the advantage of radiusing the FB before setting the inlays? I would have thought it would be easier to do all that work flat. Is it just to make sure you don't route too deep and end up sanding through the inlay edges?
 
Can you get bradpoint bits that small? I will be doing this soon. I have a Jet mortiser with a pretty beefy fence that should work well for side dot s with a bradpoint chucked into it.

Good video. One question, what's the advantage of radiusing the FB before setting the inlays? I would have thought it would be easier to do all that work flat. Is it just to make sure you don't route too deep and end up sanding through the inlay edges?

Not sure on the bit sizes.

With a 3/8" width fb, you'll have plenty of flat surface post-radius to drill your side inlays. And of course you have a nice flat surface to reference in the bottom of the board. :)
 
It looks like you can get 3/32" brad point bits, for the larger type of side dots. Not sure about 1/16". The stubby length seems like it would make the bit extra stable:

Milescraft 2300 Wood Stubby Drill Bit Set - Brad Point Bits - Amazon.com

For tasks like these, a Shopsmith, with its horizontal drilling, seems ideal. I could also really use one for drilling the hole for the output jack in the side of the body!

horiz_bore_2.jpg
 
As an Amazon Associate, TalkBass may receive commissions from qualifying purchases made via links on this site.
Pdx
Did you adjust the trussrod to get the neck as close to dead straight before fretting, or is that not necessary until you go to level the frets? I'm not real clear on that sequence, though it seems like the neck must be as straight as possible, or you are just leveling frets to a curve. Good luck with neck carve!