I have never been 100% satisfied with my side dot installs, I always end up with one or more being ever so slightly off. I need to work harder to get them consistent.
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First Build - And May My Mistakes Be Minimal
- Thread starter PDX Rich
- Start date
I think a long auxiliary table and a long fence would solve the alignment issue. The little ply jig I made was nice and straight but I did not account for the 26" or so of travel needed.
I'm really liking the brass inlay though!
I'm really liking the brass inlay though!
On my last one I used an awl to mark the location of each dot, very carefully positioned. I believe all my indentations were in the correct spot, but my drill bit wandered a bit on a few holes.
Yes, getting those little dots in a straight line is tricky. My problem has been some flex, either in the drill press fence, or in the fingerboard. A small shift is quite noticeable in this context.
I've found that double stick taping the FB to a solid flat board (I use melamine shelving scraps) makes it easier to keep things rigid. But those small drills can still wander a bit, so next time I might use a center punch first (assuming I can center punch with good accuracy). A small brad point bit would be good here: Invalid Link Removed
If you're anything like me, the errant side dot will bother you until the end of time (and if you're not like me, congratulations!) - you can probably correct it though. You can drill out the old brass (center punch it first), fill the hole with black CA glue (or even clear, or maybe sawdust mix), and once cured you can re-drill. The remnants of the old hole will probably be invisible.
I'll just pretend they are all off on purpose to be unique and artsy. 
The double stick tape right angle jig I made worked great but I did notice some flex. I may bolster that with removable tapered supports later on. Maybe get a fancier bit than the dewalt one I used... But yeah I think a solid fence and a long table will get things better moving forward.
Edit: if this build was for anyone but me, I would fill and redrill.
The double stick tape right angle jig I made worked great but I did notice some flex. I may bolster that with removable tapered supports later on. Maybe get a fancier bit than the dewalt one I used... But yeah I think a solid fence and a long table will get things better moving forward.
Edit: if this build was for anyone but me, I would fill and redrill.
I would make a jig using Stewmacs dremel base or other makers comperable base. I prefer using an awl then a finger drill by hand.
Maybe something like the simple ply jig I made retrofitted with those screw-in adjustable clamps. That would hold like a champ.
I haven't ever really used a jig to drill holes before, but I think a wooden one would get ruined pretty quickly.
You mean a wooden guide jig? Yeah, that would get torn up indeed. I just figured to use my current jig, which is just a right-angle support to hold the FB straight, but modified with additional support below the FB itself, and a nice long fence to keep all the holes in line.
This is theory, of course.
This is theory, of course.
Me too. It seems the facet approach is widely used. I think I too will go this route. I may pop down to Rockler and grab one of those fancy Shinto rasps.
For what it's worth, on my first (and only) neck carve that I just completed I really didn't like my shinto rasp. It was probably user error but it seemed to grab at the edges and cut straight down which made it hard to do long flowing contours. I ended up going to the store and spending some money on a good file which seemed much easier to deal with. I think this is the one I got.
Buy Cabinet Rasp, 2nd Cut (#49), takes a Medium Handle at Woodcraft.com
Buy Cabinet Rasp, 2nd Cut (#49), takes a Medium Handle at Woodcraft.com
Funny thing about hand tools. What is perfect for some may be awkward to others. I think there is a split on spokeshaves as well! I figure to try a variety and see what works for me.
Reminds me, I need to put the burnisher to my card scrapers to get them ready for post-rasp action! Love those things!
Reminds me, I need to put the burnisher to my card scrapers to get them ready for post-rasp action! Love those things!
Right?? I thought they were worthless until a helpful Rockler employee showed me how to flatten, then put a proper burr on them. Really fantastic tools!
Fingerboard glued and clamped. Glad I remembered to install the truss rod first. 
A nice set of brad points is on the shopping list indeed. As for my first side dot venture, I believe my alignment issues will be solved by adding wood support for the vertical section of my simple jig to account for the press flexing the double stick tape/fingerboard, adding a longer auxiliary table and building a solid, long fence to keep things nice and aligned tip to tail.
I did manage to find a 9/16" brad point for my tuners, which is nice.
I don't install side markers until the fingerboard is glued on, level and the radius cut... Then I use calipers to mark locations, and a brad point bit installed in a Dremel tool which I use to drill by hand.
