Theoretically, even if I take more wood off the cut end, as long as I remain parallel to the angle (re: on plane), I should be fine. Looks like I am a tad high on one side of the cut.
That means that I was not able to complete the mitre cut all the way through. This was due to my jig being too tall and the blade guide catching before the blade was totally flush with the board. So it cut through, but did not cut through the angle completely. Round blade, square board.
So, I will go to the jointer in the morning.
Ensure squared jointer fence. Hold cut end of scarf tightly to fence, and level out the problem area.
If I am successful, I'll remove the high spot and be able to sand lightly to achieve the joint surface I need.
Best case, I have a scarf that may require a veneer headstock face. That's actually ok by me since I'll need to glue headstock wings which will hide the joint on the sides. A bit more work will b required to further thickness said headstock, but I will figure it out as I go.
Notes for those paying attention to my ramblings:
Mitre saw motors are usually on the right. They will contact a tall jig. Build it as low as possible as well as make the arm that you clamp the neck to long enough to keep clamp clear of all saw action.
Keep in mind the blade guard. It will guide just fine unless a clamp gets in the way.
Use a good crosscut blade! They are designed for small kerf and little tearout, if any. With these blades you must cut slower! This ain't framing for a barn!
Finally, keep things tight. You don't want your neck to be wiggly in the jig. It took some testing, and if you go too fast, wood will fire out the back of your saw and it is not a pleasant sound. Be safe always!
