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First Build - Mustang Bass

Started on my first build! Been wanting to do this for a while, but it took longer than expected to acquire the necessary tools and build my space.
Decided on a Mustang-inspired build since I don't have any shorties in the collection. Using Ash for the body and torrified maple for the neck.
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Incidentally, anyone else have trouble uploading pictures from their Pixel phones? Converting using GIMP offers some hint at the potential problem, but I'd rather avoid having to convert all my pictures before posting...
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Here's some of my progress:
Got the body rough-cut on the bandsaw. Weighs about 7 pounds at this point... I may have chosen the wrong wood.
Got some "violent" tearout when routing the inside of the upper horn. Considered starting fresh, but since this wood weights so much, I have another idea.
I scab in a patch, thin down the body 1/4" and proceed to rough out some chambering using my drill press.
Clean up the chambering with the router.
Cut off a few slices from another piece of ash I have and bookmatch it.
Got the cavities routed.
Decided to add a contoured heel for easier access to high frets.
 
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Carving the neck was the part that made me most nervous about a scratch build, but it all went pretty smoothly.
I rough-cut one side of the neck and left the other straight so it could follow the fence in my router table to rout the truss rod channel.

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After the truss rod channel was complete, I rough-cut the rest and routed it flush with my template.
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With the help of a friend, I got the fingerboard slotted on his table saw setup.
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Took this opportunity to build myself a simple drill press table. Having the fence definitely helped get the fingerboard markers in a perfect line.
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Got the fingerboard makers installed and the board radiused. This is not a job I want to do by hand with a sanding block every time! I'll need to build a router jig for next time.
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Gluing the neck and fingerboard together.
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Onto the neck carve!

I found several useful tutorials on YouTube. The ones that made the most sense to me where it's my first time trying this is the faceting approach.

Made myself a simple jig to hold the neck in my bench vice. Using the masking tape for reference lines as pencil didn't show up great on this terrified maple.
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You need remarkably few facets before the neck starts resembling the intended shape!
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The headstock transition was lots of fun: just remove wood until the shape looks and feels right.
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Here are the transitions after sanding to 220-grit. They feel great in the hand!
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Fretting went without too much drama. I decided to wick some cyanoacrylate in the slots from the fret ends which was a mistake: it wicked into the wood fibres and discoloured the area around the frets. Hopefully, it's less noticeable once the neck is finish sanded and oiled.
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Borrowed my friend's fret tang nipper and undercut the tangs for a nice clean finish. I used sanding dust and CA glue to fill the open slots. It was messy so I'll try something else next time. Any suggestions? Black-tinted epoxy? Black thick CA glue?
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With the neck mostly finished, I can rout the neck pocket and start assembly.

Where I'm providing a sculpted heel, I may as well go one step further. I made a routing template so that the neck plate can be inlaid flush.
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It's definitely going to make it far more comfortable to play up the neck!
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Routed the truss rod access in the body with the pickguard installed so they match perfectly.
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First glimpse of the basic assembly! I'm not typically one for "natural" basses, but I'm reconsidering that in this case... My original plan was to finish it in black, but I may go with blonde.
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I often find myself running out of adjustment at the saddles so I tried routing the neck pocket a little shallower than typical. Looking at the saddles, however, this didn't work out as planned. Saddles are way higher than I prefer so I'll deepen the pocket to standard depth.

On that note, I'm using the Schaller bass bridge as the narrower string spacing of the Mustang limits the choices quite a bit. The adjustable string spacing provides the flexibility to accommodate a wide range of string spacings.
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Carving the nut is finicky work. Still needs work, but that won't happen until the frets are leveled/crowned/polished. I think I already went too deep with the A-string slot so this may have to become my "practice" nut.
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Of course, there has to be one on every build... Despite a proper pilot hole and waxing the screw, the top horn strap button screw broke off in the bass. This is beyond my skill to remove without making a mess so I'll bring it to my local music store's tech for some assistance.
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All along, as I've been discussing building an instrument with my friends, I would say that so far, nothing has been difficult, it's just that there are a million steps and something catastrophic could happen in any one of them... Definitely had one of those moments while finishing up, but in the end, things could have been far worse.

The last two steps on the body were to rout the neck pocket a little deeper and to drill the bridge ground. My templates use a pair of locating pins with one being under the bridge. Where I suspected I may need to rout the neck pocket deeper, I left off drilling the bridge ground until the end so I wouldn't risk damaging my locating pin.

I lined up the drill bit to hit the middle of the control cavity and it came out the back of the instrument... Annoying, but I learned a valuable lesson and I'm certainly not going to make that mistake again!
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I use the router to give myself a nice flatter starting point for the drill bit. I don't want it to follow the old hole so I aim closer to the top of the control cavity.

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Out the back again! At this point, I'm frustrated and try again right away and it comes out the back a third time! My aim should be spot on so I think what may be happening is that the drill bit deflects a bit every time it hits some harder grain in the ash.

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Time for the "nuclear" option. I map out the footprint of my bridge and rout myself a channel to give me the flattest and shortest path to the control cavity and finally succeed. Of all the things to go wrong, this is pretty minor in the grand scheme of things, but I'm going to leave the 'beauty marks' on full display as a reminder.

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With that behind me, I turn my attention to leveling, crowning, and polishing the frets. I was pretty diligent in checking my work with a fret rocker as I went along so frets don't need much leveling and this step goes pretty smoothly.

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A few hours of finish sanding and I'm ready to finish. Finishing a project is where I always tend to falter... I get impatient and hurry through the steps that should require the most methodical attention. This time, I try Rubio Monocoat; it's easy to apply, requires one coat, and is fully cured in just a few days. The oil darkened the neck more than I would have expected, but it looks good overall.

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Off to the final assembly: I shield the body with self-adhesive shielding tape from StewMac. I'm leaving a few tabs on top of the body to connect with the pieces on the back of the pickguard and control cavity cover.

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Does anyone know what's going on here? Did Nordstrand just 'forget' to pot one side of the pickup? It doesn't seem any more microphonic or anything on that side...

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A few hours of soldering and setup later, it's alive!

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My expectation for my first build was that I would learn a lot, but wouldn't wind up with a 'great' instrument, but this thing plays really well and sounds really good! The finish isn't anything to write home about, but with respect to the playability and sound, I'd put it up against my US Fenders. The sound is obviously in the P-Bass family, but a little more 'percussive' and 'punchy'.

Part of me wishes I had followed my original plan and dyed it black, but overall, I'm very pleased with the result. That said, no sooner had I finished it and my partner says "I think it would look better with black hardware"... She's absolutely correct black hardware and has been ordered.
 

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It occurred to me that I forgot to update this post!
As it turns out, my partner was absolutely correct: it does look much better with black hardware! I'm still waiting on screws for the neck plate (I need shorter 1 1/2" screws for the thinner Mustang body than the standard 1 3/4" that came with the plate), but the rest has been swapped out. Definitely wasn't easy to track down all black Schaller hardware, but it was worth the effort!
While at it, I also changed the Jazz Bass-style knobs to black chrome knurled knobs, which also look better.
I'm also planning to fabricate a control plate out of either aluminum or steel, but the plastic one will do for now.
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