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First Build, Performer Copy

#101
JIO said:
So does using this Ric type of pu's lead to incorporating a pickguard? (at least regarding the bridge pu)
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I'd like to try to avoid using a pick guard if possible. We're currently involved in an email exchange to see if it's possible with these pickups. They've been very responsive, but I may have to use trim rings at the very least. Up to now, I've been having trouble expressing what I'd like, but it just occurred to me to reference the 4004 series. I'll have to wait until I get home to forward that info as I don't have access to my email at work.
 
#102
Skip the bridge pickup...the design died when they stopped using horseshoe pickups.

Classic should easily be able to wind a neck and bridge version using the neck parts for both.

That neck bobbin does not look jam-packed with wire.

You can shim with plastic or inset either to get the desired height relative to the strings.

For that matter, you could rout a perimeter hole like a P90.

Mount them using long screws and surgical tubing or springs at each corner...now they're height adjustable.
 
#103
BeeTL said:
Skip the bridge pickup...the design died when they stopped using horseshoe pickups.

Classic should easily be able to wind a neck and bridge version using the neck parts for both.

That neck bobbin does not look jam-packed with wire.

You can shim with plastic or inset either to get the desired height relative to the strings.

For that matter, you could rout a perimeter hole like a P90.

Mount them using long screws and surgical tubing or springs at each corner...now they're height adjustable.
Click to expand...


+1
 
#104
BeeTL said:
Skip the bridge pickup...the design died when they stopped using horseshoe pickups.

Classic should easily be able to wind a neck and bridge version using the neck parts for both.

That neck bobbin does not look jam-packed with wire.

You can shim with plastic or inset either to get the desired height relative to the strings.

For that matter, you could rout a perimeter hole like a P90.

Mount them using long screws and surgical tubing or springs at each corner...now they're height adjustable.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's exactly what we are discussing via email. Brad even offered to send me a couple of mock ups to use for positioning and marking out the routing while the pickups are being built. Very nice gentleman, and quite responsive. I'm just waiting on a price quote and turn around time estimate.
 
#105
I ordered the Classic Amplification pickups yesterday and sent payment. The estimate for turn around time is 2 weeks. That should allow enough time to finish the few things I have left to do on the body, such as lowering the bridge, cutting the tummy cut, and other odds and ends.
 
#106
Started making the template for sinking the bridge.

DSC02031.jpg


Did a test run on my original template, and learned what not to do.

DSC02032.jpg


I'm ready to cut the actual bass. I'm nervous, but hoping that it'll be ok.
 
#107
DSC02033.jpg


OK, it's almost done. I just have to get one of those corner chisels as the rear of the bridge corners are square, as opposed to the front which is a radius.

I guess it's all about making templates, and doing a test run on a scrap to learn what not to do.
 
#109
xaxxat said:
Measure lots, route once...
Click to expand...

So I've learned :)

In the mean time, I squared off the corners, reinstalled the bridge, which is now flush with the surface of the body, and strung it up.

DSC02035.jpg


When I first tightened up the strings, they were laying against the frets, so I was happy the bridge was sunk enough into the body. It's nice to have some adjustment from too low to too high. The intonation adjustment screws went in a little tight, but once seated, I'm still able to adjust them without issue. I'm very happy with the outcome, after a bit of fretting (sorry, I couldn't resist :P)

DSC02036.jpg


Also, I just heard from Classic Amplification a few minutes ago. They've confirmed receipt of my payment, and gave 11/20/2013 as estimated completion date. I'm getting pretty excited :hyper:
 
#110
I just ordered the remaining electronics and shielding tape. I'm going with two concentric 500k pots with chrome knobs, and a toggle switch to select neck/both/bridge pickup(s), with a standard Rickenbacker wiring scheme. The only thing left to order will be finishing stuff. I'm still trying to decide if I'll go with nitro or poly. I had originally intended to go with nitro, but it seems every guitar stand I see is not for use with nitro, which makes me now tend toward poly. Any opinions or comments are welcome.
 
#111
mapleglo said:
I just ordered the remaining electronics and shielding tape. I'm going with two concentric 500k pots with chrome knobs, and a toggle switch to select neck/both/bridge pickup(s), with a standard Rickenbacker wiring scheme. The only thing left to order will be finishing stuff. I'm still trying to decide if I'll go with nitro or poly. I had originally intended to go with nitro, but it seems every guitar stand I see is not for use with nitro, which makes me now tend toward poly. Any opinions or comments are welcome.
Click to expand...

There will be plenty of opinions concerning nitro or poly, and there is also a hand rubbed oil finish to consider. As far as effect on tone - as long as you keep your finish minimal it's generally a moot point regardless of all the "nitro is so much better" opinions.
 
#112
mapleglo said:
I just ordered the remaining electronics and shielding tape. I'm going with two concentric 500k pots with chrome knobs, and a toggle switch to select neck/both/bridge pickup(s), with a standard Rickenbacker wiring scheme. The only thing left to order will be finishing stuff. I'm still trying to decide if I'll go with nitro or poly. I had originally intended to go with nitro, but it seems every guitar stand I see is not for use with nitro, which makes me now tend toward poly. Any opinions or comments are welcome.
Click to expand...

Do you have spray equipment? Because nitro is much better out of a rattle can than poly. If you have a spray gun and compressor an automotive urethane has some very strong advantages over nitro.
 
#113
Hopkins said:
Do you have spray equipment? Because nitro is much better out of a rattle can than poly. If you have a spray gun and compressor an automotive urethane has some very strong advantages over nitro.
Click to expand...

No spray equipment, so either way, I'll be using rattle cans.

I don't know that I'd want to deal with oil, hand rubbed or otherwise. I'm tending toward nitro or poly. I have a little experience with poly, as I've used it as a brush on for some furniture over the years. It's easy to work with, and seems to last. On the other hand, nitro seems to be more traditional for musical instruments.

As an aside, way back in the day, I had a 70's P bass, with a sunburst finish. I do not like sunburst. At some point, I sanded off the sunburst using a sanding disk in a drill, and "refinished" it with poly. It was a terrible refinish job, but I though at the time that it looked better than the sunburst. Looking back, I now realize that was an atrocity. Live and learn.
 
#115
mapleglo said:
No spray equipment, so either way, I'll be using rattle cans.

I don't know that I'd want to deal with oil, hand rubbed or otherwise. I'm tending toward nitro or poly. I have a little experience with poly, as I've used it as a brush on for some furniture over the years. It's easy to work with, and seems to last. On the other hand, nitro seems to be more traditional for musical instruments.

As an aside, way back in the day, I had a 70's P bass, with a sunburst finish. I do not like sunburst. At some point, I sanded off the sunburst using a sanding disk in a drill, and "refinished" it with poly. It was a terrible refinish job, but I though at the time that it looked better than the sunburst. Looking back, I now realize that was an atrocity. Live and learn.
Click to expand...

Nitro is the way I would go then. Nitro works well out of a rattle can, urethane quality suffers pretty badly when it is made to work out of a rattle can. Oil is about the easiest finish to apply but its not all that protective.
 
#119
mapleglo said:
Clear.
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I would skip the sealer and just use the clear to seal the wood. If it were a solid color I would have suggested you buy a couple cans of clear to seal the wood with. I prefer to use only one product. I would order about 5 cans, you might not use them all, but you will have enough if you need it.

Spray a couple of light coats, and let it dry over night. This will raise the grain, no matter how well you sand before spraying. Then level it back off by lightly sanding with 400 grit. Then start finishing. I would spray about 3 or 4 coats a day, about 30 minutes between coats, and let it dry over night. Before you start spraying each day, lightly scuff the finish with 600 grit or steel wool and clean it with grease and wax remover. About 12 to 15 coats should be enough. Then you hang it on the wall (by a hook through a tuner hole, not a wall hanger) and let it sit for about a month to let the nitro completely out gas. If you can still smell the finish its not ready for wet sanding and polishing.
 
#120
Hopkins said:
I would skip the sealer and just use the clear to seal the wood. If it were a solid color I would have suggested you buy a couple cans of clear to seal the wood with. I prefer to use only one product. I would order about 5 cans, you might not use them all, but you will have enough if you need it.

Spray a couple of light coats, and let it dry over night. This will raise the grain, no matter how well you sand before spraying. Then level it back off by lightly sanding with 400 grit. Then start finishing. I would spray about 3 or 4 coats a day, about 30 minutes between coats, and let it dry over night. Before you start spraying each day, lightly scuff the finish with 600 grit or steel wool and clean it with grease and wax remover. About 12 to 15 coats should be enough. Then you hang it on the wall (by a hook through a tuner hole, not a wall hanger) and let it sit for about a month to let the nitro completely out gas. If you can still smell the finish its not ready for wet sanding and polishing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips. I've never done a "real" refinish on an instrument, so this will be a first for me. This will be, hopefully, the final purchase for this build. That Reranch web site also has a sandpaper pack for $10.00 that includes all the fine grades, up to 2000. So I'll order that along with the clear.

I still have some final shaping to do to the body, and of course, the pickups and controls. So it'll be a month or so before I'm ready to start the finish. As soon as I pay down my credit card, I'll order the finishing supplies.
 

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