My thought would be to run them on their side through a bandsaw or something. I manage to screw stuff up by trying the heat and pry method usually....
-Jake
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My thought would be to run them on their side through a bandsaw or something. I manage to screw stuff up by trying the heat and pry method usually....
-Jake
Thanks! I thought that for a second. It’ll probably be the way I go.
I agree, I'd try to run it through a saw to remove much of the backing material, then I'd stick it in a routing fixture and plane it down to the correct thickness. 
So I went with the bandsaw method to get the most of the ash off.
Notice my fancy out feed table?
And the 2 x 4...
Keeping it firm against the right beam and of course forward push.
I recalled Bruce J sharing his band saw feed tool, on the right side...
I have to agree with him that fences are a pain. The one that came with my band saw is ok, but annoying to get it to work right.
I can basically run pretty straight cuts with a level beam on the right side. But the main plus factor is its steady and consistent. Call me weird but I find it easier to slap on a board, line it up, clamp and go.
Notice my fancy out feed table?
And the 2 x 4...
Keeping it firm against the right beam and of course forward push.
I recalled Bruce J sharing his band saw feed tool, on the right side...
I have to agree with him that fences are a pain. The one that came with my band saw is ok, but annoying to get it to work right.
I can basically run pretty straight cuts with a level beam on the right side. But the main plus factor is its steady and consistent. Call me weird but I find it easier to slap on a board, line it up, clamp and go.
Made some more progress this weekend
Made 2 more neck blanks to work with
Edges jointed with router fence
Got the faces flat
By the way found a little flaw in this jig and adjusted it. The bottom platform feet weren’t the exact same height. Addressed it with perfectly milled 1.5” select pine squares found at Home Depot.
All just in time for the arrival of a nice Indian Rosewood fretboard
More in a few weeks
Made 2 more neck blanks to work with
Edges jointed with router fence
Got the faces flat
By the way found a little flaw in this jig and adjusted it. The bottom platform feet weren’t the exact same height. Addressed it with perfectly milled 1.5” select pine squares found at Home Depot.
All just in time for the arrival of a nice Indian Rosewood fretboard
More in a few weeks
Exactly! When this board arrived I thought to myself - “I finally have a professional part of my bass build”. They’re customer service was amazing as well!
Three new maple neck laminated cut, this time with a 2” depth so a deeperheadstock angle can accommodate the whole headstock design..
Notice the shadows in between? A hint of what’s next...
I’m looking for either Wenge stringers to go along with the Wenge accent line on the body, or some darker walnut.
I went to my local Woodcraft today and found these pieces:
Come to about 22-25 each (only need one as I’ll resaw it in two).
The Walnut boards the had were too long and not so great looking.
I’m going to cap the headstock with the same maple on the body so the stringers will only be visible on the back, which opens doors to other woods.
Any other wood suggestions or recent good sources would be appreciated
I do want to keep it to woods I can use LMI yellow glue with so maybe not oily woods.
Notice the shadows in between? A hint of what’s next...
I’m looking for either Wenge stringers to go along with the Wenge accent line on the body, or some darker walnut.
I went to my local Woodcraft today and found these pieces:
Come to about 22-25 each (only need one as I’ll resaw it in two).
The Walnut boards the had were too long and not so great looking.
I’m going to cap the headstock with the same maple on the body so the stringers will only be visible on the back, which opens doors to other woods.
Any other wood suggestions or recent good sources would be appreciated
I do want to keep it to woods I can use LMI yellow glue with so maybe not oily woods.
A bit of progress on the neck blank lamination.
Got the Wenge stringers and maple pieces glued up and a light surfacing.
Happy with the results but the Wenge has a few spacing spots that I’ll fill with magic Wenge sawdust before I finish.
I sarted to make a 10 degree headstock angle and was a bit lazy because I could have taken the bulk off with my band saw but didn’t feel like changing the blade. So I took my time to gradually take off a few sections at a time.
After a few passes I realized that I had an unwanted angle and then remembered that I had a few closet maid heavy duty shelves that happen to be 10 degrees....
Much better
In retrospect, yeah that pesky thing....
The spacing of the laminates are probably better for a 6+ string bass... the next one will have 1 thick middle Wenge stripe.
This Jig is getting a lot of play! Thanks @Bruce Johnson. I’ll most likely mod it for a third use and next up - truss rod route.
Got the Wenge stringers and maple pieces glued up and a light surfacing.
Happy with the results but the Wenge has a few spacing spots that I’ll fill with magic Wenge sawdust before I finish.
I sarted to make a 10 degree headstock angle and was a bit lazy because I could have taken the bulk off with my band saw but didn’t feel like changing the blade. So I took my time to gradually take off a few sections at a time.
After a few passes I realized that I had an unwanted angle and then remembered that I had a few closet maid heavy duty shelves that happen to be 10 degrees....
Much better
In retrospect, yeah that pesky thing....
The spacing of the laminates are probably better for a 6+ string bass... the next one will have 1 thick middle Wenge stripe.
This Jig is getting a lot of play! Thanks @Bruce Johnson. I’ll most likely mod it for a third use and next up - truss rod route.
Attachments
Maple cap harvested from the body clamped and glued up...
Even though this many clamps were probably not needed, it’s sorta fun anyway.
Even though this many clamps were probably not needed, it’s sorta fun anyway.
Truss rod route done today also...
Used 2 cheap Yonico router bits. NBD.
I did learn that with this jig having capped the headstock beforehand made it harder to navigate that end of the neck’s (being flush to the board). More to think about for the next time.
Used 2 cheap Yonico router bits. NBD.
I did learn that with this jig having capped the headstock beforehand made it harder to navigate that end of the neck’s (being flush to the board). More to think about for the next time.
I got a few of the quick release 18” ones as well that come in super handy too!
Regarding the headstock maple cap,
I didn’t like the natural open angle to the outside of the nut, so the design option of a channel for the nut. I picked up an Amana 1/4” pattern bit and went to town with my dremel.
Full disclaimer, this was before I realized I should put a riser on the right side also - other wise it could get really wrong fast
But I took my time and got it in the ball park
Almost time to glue on the FB
I didn’t like the natural open angle to the outside of the nut, so the design option of a channel for the nut. I picked up an Amana 1/4” pattern bit and went to town with my dremel.
Full disclaimer, this was before I realized I should put a riser on the right side also - other wise it could get really wrong fast
But I took my time and got it in the ball park
Almost time to glue on the FB
Made some progress this weekend.
First I needed to make sure my center line was sound. With the truss rod in a piece of thin cardboard tapped into the nut channel worked fine..
Used some 3/32” brass rods to pin the fb
Experiment holes in various locations
This Bondo/cork 2x4 caul worked nicely
I’ll use the caul upside down for when I hit the neck carving stage.
Didn’t take pictures of band sawing and router trimming to size, but this lead me to one of the fun visual placement stages...
I like smaller dots in general. More fun later!
First I needed to make sure my center line was sound. With the truss rod in a piece of thin cardboard tapped into the nut channel worked fine..
Used some 3/32” brass rods to pin the fb
Experiment holes in various locations
This Bondo/cork 2x4 caul worked nicely
I’ll use the caul upside down for when I hit the neck carving stage.
Didn’t take pictures of band sawing and router trimming to size, but this lead me to one of the fun visual placement stages...
I like smaller dots in general. More fun later!
Attachments
Freekmagnet
Commercial User
