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First project: Folk Bass DIY upright

You’re saying to use the scrolls he has to make a mold and lay up some carbon fiber scrolls? Cool! :D :smug:

That's actually what I'm doing on my current AMB-2's. On my earlier AMB-2's I was casting the scroll inserts from polyurethane resin, in silicone molds, made from a smooth aluminum master. When I introduced my Walnut AMB-2 model, I wanted the inserts to look more woody, with some grain and texture. So, I machined up some scroll inserts from walnut for the first couple of them. I wasn't happy with them. They are too fragile, too ragged looking. What I'm going to do on the upcoming production run, is machine up a perfect one from walnut, then make a silicone mold from it. Then cast the parts in brown-tinted polyurethane. Hopefully the best of both: the grain and texture of the wood and the durability of the poly resin.

Another option I've thought about is to machine up the inserts from walnut, but then set them into a silicone mold in clear polyurethane. Encapsulate the walnut in clear poly for durability.
 
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I put side dots on my EUB, and as an occasional player I appreciate them, but they really are just for quick reference, if you're not listening to the notes, you'll be out of tune. Your fingers and ears need to know where those noes are... I also find that in the vertical playing position, the parallax of where you think the dots are, vs where the note really is can be pretty deceiving.
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(my objective to 'not be suck' has been mostly achieved, but do I need to play it more than just a few hours a month...)
Are those brass? I like that.
A piece of brass or aluminum flat stock would actually work really well for how I envisioned doing permanent position markers. But I'm going to go with @Diplock's nail polish idea to start with.
 
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Are those brass? I like that.
A piece of brass or aluminum flat stock would actually work really well for how I envisioned doing permanent position markers. But I'm going to go with @Diplock's nail polish idea to start with.
3 sizes of brass rod. I used small dots for every fret, medium dots for the marked frets (3,5,7,etc) and large dots for octaves.
 
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