...definitely, as he handed over the company to his son Ben!...Something tells me John Hall isn't too interested in my opinion, however.![]()
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...definitely, as he handed over the company to his son Ben!...Something tells me John Hall isn't too interested in my opinion, however.![]()
Dan Erlewine has been writing repair columns for magazines like Guitar Player and Vintage Guitar since the 80’s.
I tried clamping two necks without heat and neither really responded to that. I put a clothes iron set on polyesters (medium?) heat with a 1/8" thick, 1.5" wide, ~36" long aluminum strip sitting on the frets. The aluminum strip helped distribute the heat. I also released the tension on the truss rod while heating. This process worked well. Don't over bend it as you can put too much backbow in the neck, too.
Initially, I set the iron for the lowest setting and let it sit on the center of the neck for ~20 minutes. I removed the iron and let it cool over night while clamped in the backbowed position. That didn't do much, so I increased the temperature to the polyester setting. That may be medium to medium low on your iron. It is the lowest among the "steam" range of heat settings on my iron. I did not use steam, just dry heat. Anyhow, you could feel that the back of the neck was very warm and the aluminum was hot to the touch. Let it sit for a half hour and let it stay clamped until the neck was cool.
View attachment 3857054
I did this to the neck above from an Aria Pro beater to test and then to a nicer Fender neck. You may want to be a bit more conservative with that Ric, but the heat definitely worked to get rid of forward bow.
Sometimes straightening and reinserting the truss rods helps, but replacing them won't.this will be my next step ...
Sometimes straightening and reinserting the truss rods helps, but replacing them won't.
this will be my next step ...
Be gentle. If it gets too hot it could darken the clear coat on the maple where you are applying the heat.
I tried clamping two necks without heat and neither really responded to that. I put a clothes iron set on polyesters (medium?) heat with a 1/8" thick, 1.5" wide, ~36" long aluminum strip sitting on the frets. The aluminum strip helped distribute the heat. I also released the tension on the truss rod while heating. This process worked well. Don't over bend it as you can put too much backbow in the neck, too.
Initially, I set the iron for the lowest setting and let it sit on the center of the neck for ~20 minutes. I removed the iron and let it cool over night while clamped in the backbowed position. That didn't do much, so I increased the temperature to the polyester setting. That may be medium to medium low on your iron. It is the lowest among the "steam" range of heat settings on my iron. I did not use steam, just dry heat. Anyhow, you could feel that the back of the neck was very warm and the aluminum was hot to the touch. Let it sit for a half hour and let it stay clamped until the neck was cool.
View attachment 3857054
I did this to the neck above from an Aria Pro beater to test and then to a nicer Fender neck. You may want to be a bit more conservative with that Ric, but the heat definitely worked to get rid of forward bow.
This looks an aweful lot like a tutorial for removing a fretboard. I think it's time to take the bass to a luthier.
Or you could have the fingerboard removed, the neck planed flat again, and converted to a single DA rod.ya I could spend more than the bass is worth to put a new neck thru neck on it