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Fixing a neck... is this a video good or not?

up date ... the neck is stable and holding ... it is not flat, but it is very playable ... with the lighter string and the modified pickups and the 5th string ... it is a truly exceptional one of a kind bass brought back to life with a c-clamp
 
Dan Erlewine has been writing repair columns for magazines like Guitar Player and Vintage Guitar since the 80’s.

I drove 400 miles to Dan's shop to have him repair the broken truss rod on my '77 T-Bird. He got the rod working again but wasn't satisfied with the resulting straightness of the neck.......so he didn't charge me anything. He told me to put the $ towards gas and coffee to get me home. That's pretty good service. I eventually had a protegee of his, Chris Maul, do the heat treatment and all is good. I have found it needs to be re-treated about once a year. I joke that my T-bird gets a trip to the spa once a year.
 
My old boss used to have Dan E work on his stuff. My boss said he would talk and talk and talk and talk...

The little product placements are funny. Sometimes I think the Stewmac videos don't go over what could go wrong whereas Dave and Rosa String Works really show you all sorts of problems that can occur.

Like a Hollywood ending the Stewmac vids always end with resolution. The other guys are a little more realistic though.
 
I tried clamping two necks without heat and neither really responded to that. I put a clothes iron set on polyesters (medium?) heat with a 1/8" thick, 1.5" wide, ~36" long aluminum strip sitting on the frets. The aluminum strip helped distribute the heat. I also released the tension on the truss rod while heating. This process worked well. Don't over bend it as you can put too much backbow in the neck, too.

Initially, I set the iron for the lowest setting and let it sit on the center of the neck for ~20 minutes. I removed the iron and let it cool over night while clamped in the backbowed position. That didn't do much, so I increased the temperature to the polyester setting. That may be medium to medium low on your iron. It is the lowest among the "steam" range of heat settings on my iron. I did not use steam, just dry heat. Anyhow, you could feel that the back of the neck was very warm and the aluminum was hot to the touch. Let it sit for a half hour and let it stay clamped until the neck was cool.

View attachment 3857054

I did this to the neck above from an Aria Pro beater to test and then to a nicer Fender neck. You may want to be a bit more conservative with that Ric, but the heat definitely worked to get rid of forward bow.

this will be my next step ...
 
Sometimes straightening and reinserting the truss rods helps, but replacing them won't.

yes ... but ... the existing rods are a little worn where at the nut ... and it is always good to have an extra set of 4003/4 truss rods

it is interesting that this bass here had a tempermental neck ... but it settled down and is now behaving very well.

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I think some of the 4004 basses were bought by people who don't play them much and don't adjust the neck and do setups, then the bad neck adjust settles in and it becomes harder to adjust out the front bow
 
I tried clamping two necks without heat and neither really responded to that. I put a clothes iron set on polyesters (medium?) heat with a 1/8" thick, 1.5" wide, ~36" long aluminum strip sitting on the frets. The aluminum strip helped distribute the heat. I also released the tension on the truss rod while heating. This process worked well. Don't over bend it as you can put too much backbow in the neck, too.

Initially, I set the iron for the lowest setting and let it sit on the center of the neck for ~20 minutes. I removed the iron and let it cool over night while clamped in the backbowed position. That didn't do much, so I increased the temperature to the polyester setting. That may be medium to medium low on your iron. It is the lowest among the "steam" range of heat settings on my iron. I did not use steam, just dry heat. Anyhow, you could feel that the back of the neck was very warm and the aluminum was hot to the touch. Let it sit for a half hour and let it stay clamped until the neck was cool.

View attachment 3857054

I did this to the neck above from an Aria Pro beater to test and then to a nicer Fender neck. You may want to be a bit more conservative with that Ric, but the heat definitely worked to get rid of forward bow.

so a long time later the neck kinda went back to its curvature ... So I am doing the heat treatment

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