Hello. Im a bit confused about strings for an upright bass sound (See my earlier thread) I know I want flatwounds or nylon tapewounds, but I don't know the difference between them sound wise. What is usually preferred for upright sound? Will be played on a (semi) hollow fretless Ibanez. Do flatwounds with nylon exist? Feel free to recommend specific strings aswell!
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Flatwound vs nylontapewounds for upright sound
- Thread starter bassbass167
- Start date
GHS Tapewounds are flatwound under the nylon cover (except for the G).
Products - TAPEWOUND - GHS Strings
Since 1964, GHS Strings has been expertly winding high-quality electric guitar strings in the heart of southwestern Michigan. As a leading manufacturer, we blend tradition with innovation to produce a wide variety of strings for electric and acoustic guitars, bass guitars, classical guitars...
www.ghsstrings.com
You can also check into Rotosound Tru Bass 88 Black Nylons.
www.rotosound.com
Tru Bass 88 Nylon Tapewound Standard | 65-115
Black Nylon Standard Gauge Flatwound Bass Strings (65 75 100 115)
These are so good for what you're going for.
www.labella.com
And depending on the specific string, there are flats that have a very bright character, some are mwahtastic, and others are thumpy.
The black tapes have a mellow sound that I don't think anyone would ever call bright. But depending on your rig you still get plenty treble.
760N Black Nylon Tape – 60-115
www.labella.com
And depending on the specific string, there are flats that have a very bright character, some are mwahtastic, and others are thumpy.
The black tapes have a mellow sound that I don't think anyone would ever call bright. But depending on your rig you still get plenty treble.
IMO there is no single "upright sound". They can sound very different, depending on how the player has their action set, strings used, plucking technique, etc.
In my experience LaBella black tapes produced more of the top end string "slap" sound on my 5 string fretless. To me it sounded a lot like "clacking" and the strings felt plasticy. I switched to Dunlop flats, action set a bit higher, combined with a hard knee on my compressor in limiter mode to simulate the leading body resonance "thump" when an upright string is plucked.
That worked sort of OK but not particularly convincing and in the end I decided that I liked my fretless bass guitar to sound like a fretless bass guitar. So I lowered the action and put the compressor/limiter back in compressor mode with a softened knee. I much prefer that sound.
The moral of the story: nothing will sound LIKE an upright bass except an upright bass. If that is the desired sound one must purchase and learn that instrument.
In my experience LaBella black tapes produced more of the top end string "slap" sound on my 5 string fretless. To me it sounded a lot like "clacking" and the strings felt plasticy. I switched to Dunlop flats, action set a bit higher, combined with a hard knee on my compressor in limiter mode to simulate the leading body resonance "thump" when an upright string is plucked.
That worked sort of OK but not particularly convincing and in the end I decided that I liked my fretless bass guitar to sound like a fretless bass guitar. So I lowered the action and put the compressor/limiter back in compressor mode with a softened knee. I much prefer that sound.
The moral of the story: nothing will sound LIKE an upright bass except an upright bass. If that is the desired sound one must purchase and learn that instrument.
You can also check into Rotosound Tru Bass 88 Black Nylons.
Tru Bass 88 Nylon Tapewound Standard | 65-115
Black Nylon Standard Gauge Flatwound Bass Strings (65 75 100 115)
+1 on the Rotos. Have a set on an acoustic bass and they're very convincing.
The entire reason Roto Tru Bass were invented were to emulate an upright. They have additional damping filaments as part of the construction of the string between the core/metal wrap and the nylon final wrap.
Rotosound Tru Bass 88 - actual innards. The first black nylon tapewound ever, but a bog-standard tapewound nonetheless:
Source:
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Try both. Seriously. Build your own opinion on what works best on your particular bass.
For tapes, most of those who tried both say Pyramid 648/1 tapes are even better than the Rotosound RS88LD, for double-bass emulation duties.
(On the other hand, one user has gone back to Rotos after a Pyramid phase; I've also seen videos of a nice, piezo-only bass with D'Addario ETB92 Nylons give a very convincing upright tone - which goes to show it really depends, and absolute statements ruled as fact are not to be trusted.)
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And +2 here! Great on an acoustic. A bit of sponge by the bridge helps too.
A big piece of foam under the strings near the bridge or palm muting is about as good as it gets for the upright sound. (Tone control and amp eqing also.)
I use flats. I like nylons and have used them many years ago but one thing about nylons that I don't like is that there is no grounding when the hand touches the strings and thus there can be some "hum" sound issues.
A fretless electric bass will help also.
I use flats. I like nylons and have used them many years ago but one thing about nylons that I don't like is that there is no grounding when the hand touches the strings and thus there can be some "hum" sound issues.
A fretless electric bass will help also.
If you’re talking about the AFB, make sure you measure first. I got mine with mystery flats and the strings didn’t sound good. Once I got a set of pyramids on it the bass sounded much better. I think this was in large part just because the strings were right size. Previously the strings rubbed against each other above the nut. That and a few other issues caused a bunch of oddities with badly fitting strings.
So what is your bass? What’s the scale length?
In general if you favor neck pickup, and pluck pretty much on fretboard, most strings will get you close to upright sound.
I dig the roto 88s, but know that the tape is an insulator and can give you buzz like your bass is turned up, but you're not touching the strings.
I use 88s on a bass with EMGs for this reason.
I use 88s on a bass with EMGs for this reason.
Not all basses hum with tapes. My J has no issues at all. Tapes will bring out any grounding issues for sure.
As long as it has a good path to ground, tape shouldn’t matter. The ball ends of strings are still grounded. The only thing that isn’t is the player.
As long as it has a good path to ground, tape shouldn’t matter. The ball ends of strings are still grounded. The only thing that isn’t is the player.
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I will be using it on a Ibanez srh500, with only piezo pickups. You guys seems to favour nylon tapewound over flatwounds for my use?
I can get labella black nylon tape wounds here pretty easily. But only in light gauge. Will light gauge make it brighter and less of and upright tone?
I can get labella black nylon tape wounds here pretty easily. But only in light gauge. Will light gauge make it brighter and less of and upright tone?
Yes. I’d order the larger thicknesses labellas straight from their website. By the way, you will have very little hum issues since it uses a piezo. The lighter labella blacks are a bit floppy for some people. You will get more… well marginally more mwah type noise that’s due to string flexibility. On a fretted bass there’s a unique sound I get when slapping. That’s the nylon string hitting frets. For you it’ll be similar but it will be the nylon hitting fretboard.
For the most upright type sound, I’d go with the thicker gauge labella tapes, and raise the action a hair. (Also pluck pretty much on your fretboard). Action height will be to taste. An upright has “mwah” but not near as much as some fretless basses. A fretless I had sounded more like upright with roughly a 2 mm action. I dropped it almost flat on the board to emphasize the mwah. Flexibility of the string will dictate how much of that happens at a given string height.
If you are after a modern jazz upright tone, you might want the bare metal against wood sound of flatwounds. It you are after only the thump & short note duration, tapes will help keep the metal to wood sound away.
This is why tapewounds should always be top-loaded (vs. thru-body) so the ball ends would have direct contact with the bridge.
