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Fodera Club Part II

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when I got my Imperial new I just had to pull the trussrod out and turn it 180° because the Bass flew from deep cold NY to spring temeperatures in Germany ;). The neck was much too straight then. And since that action I only had to adjust my neck one or two time(s) in a year.

my Emperor also has a solid neck that needs an adjustment only when the seasons are changing.
 
when I got my Imperial new I just had to pull the trussrod out and turn it 180° because the Bass flew from deep cold NY to spring temeperatures in Germany ;). The neck was much too straight then. And since that action I only had to adjust my neck one or two time(s) in a year.

my Emperor also has a solid neck that needs an adjustment only when the seasons are changing.

I too have experienced some Fodera's that are as stable as any other bass. However, the incidence of instruments with neck issues seems very high to me (based on my experience with a great many of these basses, and also the significant numbers of posts over the years in many different threads concerning this issue).
 
My Fodera stable is embarrassingly large and I have got to assume that they are a fairly random sample (at least within the 4-string realm) as I bought some new and some used. Some are 25 years old, some 10 years old and one just months old. Not one of them has a neck issue and not one of them needs to be adjusted more often than normal (usual change of the seasons stuff and/or a slight tweak when a room I am playing in has extreme humidity and or dryness). It can't just be that I am lucky...

I was a Fender guy for a long time and owned 6 Jazz Basses (I only kept one -- a 1964 J). The movement on all of these (except the obviously very well seasoned 1964) was much more pronounced than on the Foderas -- they were far less stable...
 
Not one of them has a neck issue and not one of them needs to be adjusted more often than normal (usual change of the seasons stuff and/or a slight tweak when a room I am playing in has extreme humidity and or dryness).

The relatively constant 'slight tweaking' you mention above is what many of us are talking about. I'm not talking about massive turns of the rod, but rather an unusual amount of slight dialing in of the neck from week to week to keep the neck straight and 'non buzzing'. This is why (combined with the poor design of the truss rod cover) many keep that cover off IME.
 
Any pics of the instrument?

I wish they were better pictures, but here's what I could get and here are the specs...if you're interested call the shop ASAP, I imagine it won't last long...

Imperial 5 String Elite
Head Stock 2+3
35" Scale
24 Large Frets
No dots on the front of the fingerboard (I bet they would add these!), only side dots
Mahogany Body
Alder Heel Block
Madagascar Kingwood Fingerboard
3 Piece Maple Neck
Black or Gold Hardware
New Fodera Pope Circuit.
Duncan / Fodera Dual Coil Pick ups w/ walnut burl Wooden covers.
 
The relatively constant 'slight tweaking' you mention above is what many of us are talking about. I'm not talking about massive turns of the rod, but rather an unusual amount of slight dialing in of the neck from week to week to keep the neck straight and 'non buzzing'. This is why (combined with the poor design of the truss rod cover) many keep that cover off IME.

+1

I played a Fodera Monarch for 5 years and had to make "tweaking adjustments" all the time as well as the big humidity change adjustment at the beginning of fall and spring. I always kept my cover off.
 
......Not one of them has a neck issue and not one of them needs to be adjusted more often than normal (usual change of the seasons stuff and/or a slight tweak when a room I am playing in has extreme humidity and or dryness). It can't just be that I am lucky......

I don't think I'd consider you lucky at all. You have to adjust the neck when you play in a room with extreme humidity or dryness? You may have gotten used to that over the years and accepted it as normal but many would not...
 
The relatively constant 'slight tweaking' you mention above is what many of us are talking about. I'm not talking about massive turns of the rod, but rather an unusual amount of slight dialing in of the neck from week to week to keep the neck straight and 'non buzzing'. This is why (combined with the poor design of the truss rod cover) many keep that cover off IME.


I agree. All the Foderas I've played have needed that constant tweaking. What I can add as a caveat though is that in general, the playability of Foderas, combined with the fretwork (if they've made the effort that is:hiding:) does allow you to dial in buzz free ultra low action fairly easily, IME, more so than a lot of custom builders. The fact that the neck shapes are quite thin and move a bit will be far more evident with super low action than with regular action. Maybe those Fodera owners who don't have this problem set their basses up with a bit more relief.

I think of it this way, although it's not really a valid analogy, so take it with a bit of humour:

If you buy a Lamborghini, you must be prepared for the fact that it's too big, too heavy, it drinks fuel, it overheats easily, you can't get any luggage in it, you can't drive it over speedbumps, the electronics are horrible (or were, maybe with Audi they're better now), and yet for some the looks, engine note, handling (or lack of it) and performance make it worth the ridiculous money you pay for it.

If you buy a Fodera, you should be prepared for the fact that it's too big, too heavy, has a constantly shifting neck, after sales service takes forever, it can have dodgy sanding marks left on the body (which really shouldn't be on basses of this price), and can even come with Aero pickups when you thought you were getting Duncans, but again, the playability, tone, action and overall good looks make it worth all that money for some of the best bassists in the world despite the flaws.

I'd happily own a Lamborghini and a Fodera over a porsche and a ________ (not going to write any basses so as not to upset people)
 
I agree. All the Foderas I've played have needed that constant tweaking. What I can add as a caveat though is that in general, the playability of Foderas, combined with the fretwork (if they've made the effort that is:hiding:) does allow you to dial in buzz free ultra low action fairly easily, IME, more so than a lot of custom builders. The fact that the neck shapes are quite thin and move a bit will be far more evident with super low action than with regular action. Maybe those Fodera owners who don't have this problem set their basses up with a bit more relief.

I think of it this way, although it's not really a valid analogy, so take it with a bit of humour:

If you buy a Lamborghini, you must be prepared for the fact that it's too big, too heavy, it drinks fuel, it overheats easily, you can't get any luggage in it, you can't drive it over speedbumps, the electronics are horrible (or were, maybe with Audi they're better now), and yet for some the looks, engine note, handling (or lack of it) and performance make it worth the ridiculous money you pay for it.

If you buy a Fodera, you should be prepared for the fact that it's too big, too heavy, has a constantly shifting neck, after sales service takes forever, it can have dodgy sanding marks left on the body (which really shouldn't be on basses of this price), and can even come with Aero pickups when you thought you were getting Duncans, but again, the playability, tone, action and overall good looks make it worth all that money for some of the best bassists in the world despite the flaws.

I'd happily own a Lamborghini and a Fodera over a porsche and a ________ (not going to write any basses so as not to upset people)

+1 to all of the above. It 'is what it is'... the good, the bad, the ugly. Only a Fodera sounds and feels like a Fodera. As many of us have experienced, there is a price to pay. As long as you realize that price, all is cool. Those who say these issues don't exist with this brand are misleading potential buyers IMO.
 
I'm not misleading anyone, and thats not such a cool remark, IMO. I've owned a dozen Foderas, ... Monarch's 4 & 5, Emperor 5's fretted and fretless, Imperial 6. They spanned 1984 to 2006, I like medium-low action, and rarely had to tweak any of them. Perhaphs its an issue on some of their basses, but it hasn't been an issue for me in over 10 years playing Fodera exclusively and a dozen of their basses. My Imperial 6 is definitely the most stable I have experienced...but there is no way I would lie about my experience with the other instruments I've owned.

Aloha, Garey
 
I'm not misleading anyone, and thats not such a cool remark, IMO. I've owned a dozen Foderas, ... Monarch's 4 & 5, Emperor 5's fretted and fretless, Imperial 6. They spanned 1984 to 2006, I like medium-low action, and rarely had to tweak any of them. Perhaphs its an issue on some of their basses, but it hasn't been an issue for me in over 10 years playing Fodera exclusively and a dozen of their basses. My Imperial 6 is definitely the most stable I have experienced...but there is no way I would lie about my experience with the other instruments I've owned.

Aloha, Garey

I was not directing that comment toward you:smug: From the many, many posts, there is obviously an issue here in general. That doesn't mean that there aren't many, many Fodera's that are perfectly stable. Even in the worst days of, for example, General Motors quality issues, there were MANY more GM cars that never had issues versus those that did. It's all about the probability of having an issue (i.e., the PERCENT of basses, in this case, that are wanky). It might only be 20%... however, if you compare that to the incidence of neck movement in other high end basses, my guess is (from my experience with 40 or so individual Fodera's), the incidence of this issue (again, as posted by many of us through the years) indicates some sort of design issue. IMO, this is not good, but just like the post above so beautifully indicates, there were many who loved their Jaguars back in the 80's, even though they were in the shop more than on the road.

No big deal, but 'it is what it is'.
 
My apologies then...however I was one of the people who voiced a different opinion prior to your remark...so I figured I would fit into that category by your definition.

Aloha, Garey

No problem, and I don't mean to offend. Once an individual has a personal relationship with the luthier and hangs out at the shop, it is VERY hard to be unbiased. This just happens, and we all fall prey to it. I'm very good friends with Don Oatman of Low Down Sound, and I would have a very hard time posting that any of his cabs suck (even though, every once in a while... well.....:D).

It's very important for TBer's to separate 'brand champions' (i.e., those that love the brand, know the company well, and have a personal relationship with, in this case, the luthiers), versus the schlubs like me who just play the stuff, talk to a zillion other players, and try to report what they find as accurately as they can.

IMO, of course.:) I played an Emperor Elite for many years as my primary bass, and have good memories, for the most part. I also have memories of it weighing a ton, and the neck moving every 6 days... but again, 'it is what it is'.
 
No problem, and I don't mean to offend. Once an individual has a personal relationship with the luthier and hangs out at the shop, it is VERY hard to be unbiased. This just happens, and we all fall prey to it. I'm very good friends with Don Oatman of Low Down Sound, and I would have a very hard time posting that any of his cabs suck (even though, every once in a while... well.....:D).

It's very important for TBer's to separate 'brand champions' (i.e., those that love the brand, know the company well, and have a personal relationship with, in this case, the luthiers), versus the schlubs like me who just play the stuff, talk to a zillion other players, and try to report what they find as accurately as they can.

IMO, of course.:)

Cool, I understand that. FWIW, I have no relationship with Fodera directly, have never been to their shop or even NYC, and unlike most (at least these days) found my first Monarch in the late 80's used in a shop in California...before I knew thats what Victor was playing. Every Fodera I've bought has been used except my current Imperial 6 which I ordered through the Groove Shoppe. I never paid more than $3k, except for the Imperial....so its not like I have this huge investment that I need to convince myself is a good one. I just love their basses. Note: Being in Hawaii (and the North Shore of Kaua'i at that) I had been used to adjusting instruments regularly (electric guitar, acoustic guitar,and in the past when I had other brands of basses around.) ....and in my experience it actually sticks out how little my Fodera's need it. I guess thats why this topic has me somewhat scratching my head!

Aloha, Garey
 
Cool, I understand that. FWIW, I have no relationship with Fodera directly, have never been to their shop or even NYC, and unlike most (at least these days) found my first Monarch in the late 80's used in a shop in California...before I knew thats what Victor was playing. Every Fodera I've bought has been used except my current Imperial 6 which I ordered through the Groove Shoppe. I never paid more than $3k, except for the Imperial....so its not like I have this huge investment that I need to convince myself is a good one. I just love their basses. Note: Being in Hawaii (and the North Shore of Kaua'i at that) I had been used to adjusting instruments regularly (electric guitar, acoustic guitar,and in the past when I had other brands of basses around.) ....and in my experience it actually sticks out how little my Fodera's need it. I guess thats why this topic has me somewhat scratching my head!

Aloha, Garey

+1 Again, there are many more Fodera's that have absolutely no issues versus those that do. Sometimes, if you aren't dealing with this stuff every day (I am a statistician, and my day gig involves estimating new product quality and 'problems', among many other things), it is hard to think in probabalistic terms.

Some products have issues... EA seems to have driver issues with their 10" neo cabs, GK has noise issues in their new line of micro heads, FBass (until they changed their finish technique) had finish checking and chipping issues with their basses, etc., etc. Even with these well documented issues (from a variety of sources... retailers, websites, personal experiences in the bass community, etc.), there are still a vast majority of owners who never experienced them with any of these brands. However, the PROBABILITY of having these issues with given brand goes way up if you are a potential buyer, and IMO it is good for potential buyers to be aware of this kind of stuff.
 
Garey- I think one of the bigger differences that may be seen here is how high you like your action. At medium-low, there is more leeway, more room for "error" before the setup becomes untolerable. If you like deadnuts low action, where a few thousands of an inch is the difference between clean-and-clear and buzzing, you are much more likely to have to adjust necks more often.

I like really, realllly low action. I haven't found almost any wood necked basses that are immune to the need to be tweaked. Doesn't mean it would put me off a Fodera.
 
Oh and in the mail today?

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(Pictures from seller; haven't had a moment free.)
 

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No joke, huh? It's pretty insane- actually way, way better than I was expecting even. I hate wide spacing, but figured I would give it a shot. Thus far...well, I find it more comfortable on this bass than on any I've ever played in the past, but I definitely still prefer narrower spacing, especially in the left hand, though really in both.

It's a 33" scale, ash/bubinga neck, walnut body, chestnut top/tone block.

I'm having some trouble finding the right tone out of it, though. This one has the really MG-esque tone, which not all of the walnut body/ash neck Foderas do. Very bright, especially with the Duncans, but ultra, ultra clear.

I have a Fodera on order, with an ash neck, maple body, maple fretboard and ebony top(and narrow spacing!), and I think after having this one I'm going to change the neck and body woods. I love my Benavente with ash neck/maple body and my Zon with walnut body, but this one is a little too bright for me thus far. I'm not sure if this one is for me. :(

But it's one of the best looking and playing basses I've ever touched. I don't want to sell it because it's a glorified masterpiece, but unless I can find a way to really bond with the tone I might have to.
 
No joke, huh? It's pretty insane- actually way, way better than I was expecting even. I hate wide spacing, but figured I would give it a shot. Thus far...well, I find it more comfortable on this bass than on any I've ever played in the past, but I definitely still prefer narrower spacing, especially in the left hand, though really in both.

It's a 33" scale, ash/bubinga neck, walnut body, chestnut top/tone block.

I'm having some trouble finding the right tone out of it, though. This one has the really MG-esque tone, which not all of the walnut body/ash neck Foderas do. Very bright, especially with the Duncans, but ultra, ultra clear.

I have a Fodera on order, with an ash neck, maple body, maple fretboard and ebony top(and narrow spacing!), and I think after having this one I'm going to change the neck and body woods. I love my Benavente with ash neck/maple body and my Zon with walnut body, but this one is a little too bright for me thus far. I'm not sure if this one is for me. :(

But it's one of the best looking and playing basses I've ever touched. I don't want to sell it because it's a glorified masterpiece, but unless I can find a way to really bond with the tone I might have to.

Nice. Fodera doesn't make maple bodies do they?
 
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