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Fodera Club Part VII

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Ash is more percussive and a touch warmer and Maple is brighter with more of a ringing quality to the highs...really depends on what you're pairing it with!

Cheers,

J

I'm glad you brought this up cuz I've been wondering what's the sound difference between maple and ash necks are. Lately I've been trying to finalize the specs on what I eventually want to get in the (hopefully near) future, and I got pretty much everything down but the neckwood.
 
J --while you're at would you mind commenting on the tonal properties of popular Fodera body woods such as mohogany, walnut, and alder? Thanks in advance.

Just Thumpin' said:
Ash is more percussive and a touch warmer and Maple is brighter with more of a ringing quality to the highs...really depends on what you're pairing it with!

Cheers,

J
 
Ash is more percussive and a touch warmer and Maple is brighter with more of a ringing quality to the highs...really depends on what you're pairing it with!

Cheers,

J
Ideal specs for either an MG Imp or Imp II
Top: Redwood Burl
Body: Mahogany (Probably Maple Toneblock)
Neck: Maple or Ash
Fretboard: Ebony

Closest bass I can find on Youtube with similar specs is Blake Branch's Imperial with a maple neck / alder toneblock

YouTube - Raspberry Heaven 2010

I'm looking for something along the lines of Blake and Tony Grey (my favorite bass player). I know all of Tony's Foderas have maple necks and his Imperials have maple toneblocks. Not sure how much of a difference a toneblock makes (wether it be maple, ash, alder, etc), lol.

Out of Tony's 2 MG Imperials / 6-string monarchs, only one MG Imperial (low-B) has a mahogany body while the rest are walnut. I'm not a big fan of walnut and I like the idea of having the warmth of a mahogany body against the percussiveness of an ebony fretboard. I think I'm starting to lean towards a maple neck since that's what Tony / Blake are using and it's what I'm used to. How much of that "water maple" stuff do you guys have? I'm kind of interested in it now lol.
 
My humble guess is that it's a combination of the stiffer cherry wood, the stiff purpleheart in the neck and the stiff ebony fingerboard....and the hard finish the bass has (I'll never have a hard finish like that again). The M Bass that I played that was as close to "my sound" as I've ever heard had a 3 piece maple neck, a kingwood board and a lighter finish. My bass, even with a shorter scale, has a better B string though...probably attributed to the stiffer neck....and it plays better for my needs. The sound of the other bass was better all around though....again, entirely my fault for not just leaving the options up to the luthier and telling him the sound I was looking for.

maybe you just liked jon's lumber source better or that specific piece of wood. the more i think i have stuff figured out the more stuff doesnt fit. yeah, ive come across general tone similarities within species of wood, but im finding more and more how important neck wood is.

in addition to the the 62 situation, ive got a 9.5 pound ash p bass. early 80's mij. attacks and sustains and overall a pretty hard sounding bass. typical for heavier ash right? i just refretted a fernandes jazz neck and put it on the p bass body to test it out and it sounded like a completely different bass. warmer and more vintage sounding without as much attack. the "ashness" wasnt really the ash.
 
Funny, with everything I have answered here over the past couple of years, I have been asked this question several times and avoided answering each time because tone is incredibly difficult to describe with words AND there are significant variations within each species (and even within the same tree).

By way of example, when the shop was building Bass #3,000 (http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=19) I got to really work alongside him and Joey to tap test every piece of wood that went into that bass. We cut up a very large piece of Honduran Mahogany (over 15" wide and 10' tall) and the difference in tone between the top piece and the bottom piece was striking. It makes sense right? The wood near the roots of a tree (which has to bear the weight of what is above it) is invariably heavier and denser than the wood closer to the crown. YES, it was all Mahogany, but there were distinct differences in tone between the 5 pieces that were cut...so much so that Joey, Vinny and I could have easily "reconstructed" the slab by tapping each piece and placing it back in the order from which it was originally cut.

Since these differences are differences of gradation AND since they also occur in both the neck and fingerboard materials, after a customer has worked with us to select the species of wood for each component part, when it comes time to actually build the bass we work to ensure that the overall selection of woods compliment each other in a way that we think is both representative and appealing.

Going back to the Bass 3000 example...since it had a Brazilian FB that happened to have incredible depth to it in the lower frequencies, Vinny chose to compliment that characteristic with a Maple neck billet that emphasized these frequencies a little less than many others from which he had to choose from and was strong in the mids and highs. It's just like cooking. When you're making your pasta sauce, if the tomatoes are a little less ripe you compensate by adding a bit of sugar. This kind of expertise and attention to detail is one of the things that you are buying when you purchase a Fodera (or, hopefully, any high-end bass).

All of this said, here are some GENERALITIES about the "big four" body woods purely IMHO...

Alder - Fairly well balanced leaning towards the warm side of the tonal spectrum. Lows, mids and highs are all present. This wood has long been associated with the "Vintage 60's" sound -- especially when paired with a Brazilian Rosewood FB!

Ash - Tremendous variation here due to the varied densities between heavy, Northern Ash and (potentially) feather light Southern Swamp Ash. Unless weight is an issue, we always prefer to build with medium density Ash. At this density, Ash is brighter sounding than Alder with excellent, percussive sounding lows and clean highs. It tends to be a bit "scooped" in the mids. This wood (especially when paired with a Maple fingerboard) is associated with the "Vintage 70's" sound.

Mahogany - On the warmer side of the spectrum. "Rich" sounding and complex...if that makes any sense. The lows, mids and highs are all there but in a different way and different proportion than in Alder...Mahogany (to me) tends to have a fuller sound that speaks very naturally in the mids.

Walnut - Percussive in a way that is similar to Ash. Also somewhat scooped in the mids. Very clean, but not in-your-face-sounding highs. Overall, to my ears, Walnut comes across as a slightly warmer, more nuanced and subtle version of Ash...if that makes any sense, LOL!

Of course the very best way to get a sense of this is to get instruments with all of the different woods under your fingers on a regular basis. At least this is what I told my wife when she asked me why I needed 10+ Monarchs!

Listening to them regularly, the differences are immediately obvious, but putting these differences into words is, shall we say, very, very humanizing!

Enjoy the weekend...

J

J --while you're at would you mind commenting on the tonal properties of popular Fodera body woods such as mohogany, walnut, and alder? Thanks in advance.
 
Funny, with everything I have answered here over the past couple of years, I have been asked this question several times and avoided answering each time because tone is incredibly difficult to describe with words AND there are significant variations within each species (and even within the same tree).

By way of example, when the shop was building Bass #3,000 (http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=19) I got to really work alongside him and Joey to tap test every piece of wood that went into that bass. We cut up a very large piece of Honduran Mahogany (over 15" wide and 10' tall) and the difference in tone between the top piece and the bottom piece was striking. It makes sense right? The wood near the roots of a tree (which has to bear the weight of what is above it) is invariably heavier and denser than the wood closer to the crown. YES, it was all Mahogany, but there were distinct differences in tone between the 5 pieces that were cut...so much so that Joey, Vinny and I could have easily "reconstructed" the slab by tapping each piece and placing it back in the order from which it was originally cut.

Since these differences are differences of gradation AND since they also occur in both the neck and fingerboard materials, after a customer has worked with us to select the species of wood for each component part, when it comes time to actually build the bass we work to ensure that the overall selection of woods compliment each other in a way that we think is both representative and appealing.

Going back to the Bass 3000 example...since it had a Brazilian FB that happened to have incredible depth to it in the lower frequencies, Vinny chose to compliment that characteristic with a Maple neck billet that emphasized these frequencies a little less than many others from which he had to choose from and was strong in the mids and highs. It's just like cooking. When you're making your pasta sauce, if the tomatoes are a little less ripe you compensate by adding a bit of sugar. This kind of expertise and attention to detail is one of the things that you are buying when you purchase a Fodera (or, hopefully, any high-end bass).

All of this said, here are some GENERALITIES about the "big four" body woods purely IMHO...

Alder - Fairly well balanced leaning towards the warm side of the tonal spectrum. Lows, mids and highs are all present. This wood has long been associated with the "Vintage 60's" sound -- especially when paired with a Brazilian Rosewood FB!

Ash - Tremendous variation here due to the varied densities between heavy, Northern Ash and (potentially) feather light Southern Swamp Ash. Unless weight is an issue, we always prefer to build with medium density Ash. At this density, Ash is brighter sounding than Alder with excellent, percussive sounding lows and clean highs. It tends to be a bit "scooped" in the mids. This wood (especially when paired with a Maple fingerboard) is associated with the "Vintage 70's" sound.

Mahogany - On the warmer side of the spectrum. "Rich" sounding and complex...if that makes any sense. The lows, mids and highs are all there but in a different way and different proportion than in Alder...Mahogany (to me) tends to have a fuller sound that speaks very naturally in the mids.

Walnut - Percussive in a way that is similar to Ash. Also somewhat scooped in the mids. Very clean, but not in-your-face-sounding highs. Overall, to my ears, Walnut comes across as a slightly warmer, more nuanced and subtle version of Ash...if that makes any sense, LOL!

Of course the very best way to get a sense of this is to get instruments with all of the different woods under your fingers on a regular basis. At least this is what I told my wife when she asked me why I needed 10+ Monarchs!

Listening to them regularly, the differences are immediately obvious, but putting these differences into words is, shall we say, very, very humanizing!

Enjoy the weekend...

J
That is the best post I've read in awhile. Thanks for taking the trouble.
 
Yes, yes, yes and yes!




Funny, with everything I have answered here over the past couple of years, I have been asked this question several times and avoided answering each time because tone is incredibly difficult to describe with words AND there are significant variations within each species (and even within the same tree).

By way of example, when the shop was building Bass #3,000 (http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=19) I got to really work alongside him and Joey to tap test every piece of wood that went into that bass. We cut up a very large piece of Honduran Mahogany (over 15" wide and 10' tall) and the difference in tone between the top piece and the bottom piece was striking. It makes sense right? The wood near the roots of a tree (which has to bear the weight of what is above it) is invariably heavier and denser than the wood closer to the crown. YES, it was all Mahogany, but there were distinct differences in tone between the 5 pieces that were cut...so much so that Joey, Vinny and I could have easily "reconstructed" the slab by tapping each piece and placing it back in the order from which it was originally cut.

Since these differences are differences of gradation AND since they also occur in both the neck and fingerboard materials, after a customer has worked with us to select the species of wood for each component part, when it comes time to actually build the bass we work to ensure that the overall selection of woods compliment each other in a way that we think is both representative and appealing.

Going back to the Bass 3000 example...since it had a Brazilian FB that happened to have incredible depth to it in the lower frequencies, Vinny chose to compliment that characteristic with a Maple neck billet that emphasized these frequencies a little less than many others from which he had to choose from and was strong in the mids and highs. It's just like cooking. When you're making your pasta sauce, if the tomatoes are a little less ripe you compensate by adding a bit of sugar. This kind of expertise and attention to detail is one of the things that you are buying when you purchase a Fodera (or, hopefully, any high-end bass).

All of this said, here are some GENERALITIES about the "big four" body woods purely IMHO...

Alder - Fairly well balanced leaning towards the warm side of the tonal spectrum. Lows, mids and highs are all present. This wood has long been associated with the "Vintage 60's" sound -- especially when paired with a Brazilian Rosewood FB!

Ash - Tremendous variation here due to the varied densities between heavy, Northern Ash and (potentially) feather light Southern Swamp Ash. Unless weight is an issue, we always prefer to build with medium density Ash. At this density, Ash is brighter sounding than Alder with excellent, percussive sounding lows and clean highs. It tends to be a bit "scooped" in the mids. This wood (especially when paired with a Maple fingerboard) is associated with the "Vintage 70's" sound.

Mahogany - On the warmer side of the spectrum. "Rich" sounding and complex...if that makes any sense. The lows, mids and highs are all there but in a different way and different proportion than in Alder...Mahogany (to me) tends to have a fuller sound that speaks very naturally in the mids.

Walnut - Percussive in a way that is similar to Ash. Also somewhat scooped in the mids. Very clean, but not in-your-face-sounding highs. Overall, to my ears, Walnut comes across as a slightly warmer, more nuanced and subtle version of Ash...if that makes any sense, LOL!

Of course the very best way to get a sense of this is to get instruments with all of the different woods under your fingers on a regular basis. At least this is what I told my wife when she asked me why I needed 10+ Monarchs!

Listening to them regularly, the differences are immediately obvious, but putting these differences into words is, shall we say, very, very humanizing!

Enjoy the weekend...

J
 
I got my new Fodera Emperor 5 yesterday and wanted to share pictures and my experiences. It is a bit long winded.

In 2009, after owning numerous 5 string basses by various manufacturers, I decided to order a Fodera Emperor. I did not know much about Fodera basses other than they were handmade to players spec. I spoke with Jason and explained what basics features I believed I wanted at the time. Jason took a lot of time over the phone and went over the wood combos that he believed would fit my initial requests. I explained to Jason that I was not a pro or familiar with bass building and didn't have all the spec figured out. He treated me like a priority anyway, which I really appreciated. I then contacted an authorized Fodera dealer and placed my order. Knowing I had a two year wait, I began researching to figure out the rest of the specs by slowly reading EVERY Fodera related post I could find on TB-only finishing a few months ago (2011). Let me tell you, Fodera owners/players are definately a family of emotional and musically educated people. I have learned so much about bass building and playing! This has been a great experience for me, I feel as though the money I invested in a Fodera also has contributed to my lacking music education. I ended up figuring out, from a lot of your posts and personal experiences along with me buying/selling many basses, what the rest of my specifications were. I contacted Jason at the beginning of the year for some more feedback, amazingly he remembered me and where I lived and answered final questions I had (Thanks for the patience Jason). All the info Jason gave is spot on with this bass in hand. I really would like to thank the other employees at Fodera who traded correspondence with me in the final stages of the build. Soooo........here it is....

th_ea55bd72.jpg

th_f3d843ff.jpg

th_16597927.jpg



Best neck ever! I love this bass-In reference to all the posts about Fodera and its owners let me emphatically say with respect to others: IF YOU PLAY A FODERA AND DONT GET WHY WE PAY/PLAY THEM, ORDER ONE AND GO THROUGH THE PROCESS. IT IS MORE THAN JUST HAVING A BASS MADE.

Thanks for reading.
 
Funny, with everything I have answered here over the past couple of years, I have been asked this question several times and avoided answering each time because tone is incredibly difficult to describe with words AND there are significant variations within each species (and even within the same tree).

By way of example, when the shop was building Bass #3,000 (http://www.fodera.com/Main/NewBornDetails.aspx?FeaturedItemID=19) I got to really work alongside him and Joey to tap test every piece of wood that went into that bass. We cut up a very large piece of Honduran Mahogany (over 15" wide and 10' tall) and the difference in tone between the top piece and the bottom piece was striking. It makes sense right? The wood near the roots of a tree (which has to bear the weight of what is above it) is invariably heavier and denser than the wood closer to the crown. YES, it was all Mahogany, but there were distinct differences in tone between the 5 pieces that were cut...so much so that Joey, Vinny and I could have easily "reconstructed" the slab by tapping each piece and placing it back in the order from which it was originally cut.

Since these differences are differences of gradation AND since they also occur in both the neck and fingerboard materials, after a customer has worked with us to select the species of wood for each component part, when it comes time to actually build the bass we work to ensure that the overall selection of woods compliment each other in a way that we think is both representative and appealing.

Going back to the Bass 3000 example...since it had a Brazilian FB that happened to have incredible depth to it in the lower frequencies, Vinny chose to compliment that characteristic with a Maple neck billet that emphasized these frequencies a little less than many others from which he had to choose from and was strong in the mids and highs. It's just like cooking. When you're making your pasta sauce, if the tomatoes are a little less ripe you compensate by adding a bit of sugar. This kind of expertise and attention to detail is one of the things that you are buying when you purchase a Fodera (or, hopefully, any high-end bass).

All of this said, here are some GENERALITIES about the "big four" body woods purely IMHO...

Alder - Fairly well balanced leaning towards the warm side of the tonal spectrum. Lows, mids and highs are all present. This wood has long been associated with the "Vintage 60's" sound -- especially when paired with a Brazilian Rosewood FB!

Ash - Tremendous variation here due to the varied densities between heavy, Northern Ash and (potentially) feather light Southern Swamp Ash. Unless weight is an issue, we always prefer to build with medium density Ash. At this density, Ash is brighter sounding than Alder with excellent, percussive sounding lows and clean highs. It tends to be a bit "scooped" in the mids. This wood (especially when paired with a Maple fingerboard) is associated with the "Vintage 70's" sound.

Mahogany - On the warmer side of the spectrum. "Rich" sounding and complex...if that makes any sense. The lows, mids and highs are all there but in a different way and different proportion than in Alder...Mahogany (to me) tends to have a fuller sound that speaks very naturally in the mids.

Walnut - Percussive in a way that is similar to Ash. Also somewhat scooped in the mids. Very clean, but not in-your-face-sounding highs. Overall, to my ears, Walnut comes across as a slightly warmer, more nuanced and subtle version of Ash...if that makes any sense, LOL!

Of course the very best way to get a sense of this is to get instruments with all of the different woods under your fingers on a regular basis. At least this is what I told my wife when she asked me why I needed 10+ Monarchs!

Listening to them regularly, the differences are immediately obvious, but putting these differences into words is, shall we say, very, very humanizing!

Enjoy the weekend...

J

nicely done...
 
I got my new Fodera Emperor 5 yesterday and wanted to share pictures and my experiences. It is a bit long winded.

In 2009, after owning numerous 5 string basses by various manufacturers, I decided to order a Fodera Emperor. I did not know much about Fodera basses other than they were handmade to players spec. I spoke with Jason and explained what basics features I believed I wanted at the time. Jason took a lot of time over the phone and went over the wood combos that he believed would fit my initial requests. I explained to Jason that I was not a pro or familiar with bass building and didn't have all the spec figured out. He treated me like a priority anyway, which I really appreciated. I then contacted an authorized Fodera dealer and placed my order. Knowing I had a two year wait, I began researching to figure out the rest of the specs by slowly reading EVERY Fodera related post I could find on TB-only finishing a few months ago (2011). Let me tell you, Fodera owners/players are definately a family of emotional and musically educated people. I have learned so much about bass building and playing! This has been a great experience for me, I feel as though the money I invested in a Fodera also has contributed to my lacking music education. I ended up figuring out, from a lot of your posts and personal experiences along with me buying/selling many basses, what the rest of my specifications were. I contacted Jason at the beginning of the year for some more feedback, amazingly he remembered me and where I lived and answered final questions I had (Thanks for the patience Jason). All the info Jason gave is spot on with this bass in hand. I really would like to thank the other employees at Fodera who traded correspondence with me in the final stages of the build. Soooo........here it is....

th_ea55bd72.jpg

th_f3d843ff.jpg

th_16597927.jpg



Best neck ever! I love this bass-In reference to all the posts about Fodera and its owners let me emphatically say with respect to others: IF YOU PLAY A FODERA AND DONT GET WHY WE PAY/PLAY THEM, ORDER ONE AND GO THROUGH THE PROCESS. IT IS MORE THAN JUST HAVING A BASS MADE.

Thanks for reading.
awesome bass and beautifully said. Welcome to the Fodera family.
 
Thanks so much for the great post. I am THRILLED that your bass ended up the way we discussed it being over the months. Your post does a great job of explaining the whole Fodera vibe. Enjoy your bass and know that there is a lot of love that went into making it!

Kindest regards,

J

I got my new Fodera Emperor 5 yesterday and wanted to share pictures and my experiences. It is a bit long winded.

In 2009, after owning numerous 5 string basses by various manufacturers, I decided to order a Fodera Emperor. I did not know much about Fodera basses other than they were handmade to players spec. I spoke with Jason and explained what basics features I believed I wanted at the time. Jason took a lot of time over the phone and went over the wood combos that he believed would fit my initial requests. I explained to Jason that I was not a pro or familiar with bass building and didn't have all the spec figured out. He treated me like a priority anyway, which I really appreciated. I then contacted an authorized Fodera dealer and placed my order. Knowing I had a two year wait, I began researching to figure out the rest of the specs by slowly reading EVERY Fodera related post I could find on TB-only finishing a few months ago (2011). Let me tell you, Fodera owners/players are definately a family of emotional and musically educated people. I have learned so much about bass building and playing! This has been a great experience for me, I feel as though the money I invested in a Fodera also has contributed to my lacking music education. I ended up figuring out, from a lot of your posts and personal experiences along with me buying/selling many basses, what the rest of my specifications were. I contacted Jason at the beginning of the year for some more feedback, amazingly he remembered me and where I lived and answered final questions I had (Thanks for the patience Jason). All the info Jason gave is spot on with this bass in hand. I really would like to thank the other employees at Fodera who traded correspondence with me in the final stages of the build. Soooo........here it is....

th_ea55bd72.jpg

th_f3d843ff.jpg

th_16597927.jpg



Best neck ever! I love this bass-In reference to all the posts about Fodera and its owners let me emphatically say with respect to others: IF YOU PLAY A FODERA AND DONT GET WHY WE PAY/PLAY THEM, ORDER ONE AND GO THROUGH THE PROCESS. IT IS MORE THAN JUST HAVING A BASS MADE.

Thanks for reading.
 
I got my new Fodera Emperor 5 yesterday and wanted to share pictures and my experiences. It is a bit long winded.

In 2009, after owning numerous 5 string basses by various manufacturers, I decided to order a Fodera Emperor. I did not know much about Fodera basses other than they were handmade to players spec. I spoke with Jason and explained what basics features I believed I wanted at the time. Jason took a lot of time over the phone and went over the wood combos that he believed would fit my initial requests. I explained to Jason that I was not a pro or familiar with bass building and didn't have all the spec figured out. He treated me like a priority anyway, which I really appreciated. I then contacted an authorized Fodera dealer and placed my order. Knowing I had a two year wait, I began researching to figure out the rest of the specs by slowly reading EVERY Fodera related post I could find on TB-only finishing a few months ago (2011). Let me tell you, Fodera owners/players are definately a family of emotional and musically educated people. I have learned so much about bass building and playing! This has been a great experience for me, I feel as though the money I invested in a Fodera also has contributed to my lacking music education. I ended up figuring out, from a lot of your posts and personal experiences along with me buying/selling many basses, what the rest of my specifications were. I contacted Jason at the beginning of the year for some more feedback, amazingly he remembered me and where I lived and answered final questions I had (Thanks for the patience Jason). All the info Jason gave is spot on with this bass in hand. I really would like to thank the other employees at Fodera who traded correspondence with me in the final stages of the build. Soooo........here it is....

th_ea55bd72.jpg

th_f3d843ff.jpg

th_16597927.jpg



Best neck ever! I love this bass-In reference to all the posts about Fodera and its owners let me emphatically say with respect to others: IF YOU PLAY A FODERA AND DONT GET WHY WE PAY/PLAY THEM, ORDER ONE AND GO THROUGH THE PROCESS. IT IS MORE THAN JUST HAVING A BASS MADE.

Thanks for reading.

You have a beautiful bass -- I'm sure it sounds as good as it looks. Enjoy it!
 
Searches on information about bass tone woods have in the past left me scratching my head. This is the clearest, most succinct explanation I've seen. Thanks Jason, this helps!

Understanding the example of mahogany bass #3000 was for me a breakthrough. Dramatic tonal differences exist even within pieces from the same tree --let alone different species. Jason's point to underscore is that it is Joey's and Vinny's experience and expertise in selecting tone woods which will compliment each other which will result in an instrument of abounding good tone. Wrapping my head around this has reaffirmed my confidence in the choices/specs I've decided on for my Fodera. Anyways, since the notion of my wife allowing me to own 10+ monarchs is not even imaginable LOL I guess I'll have take Jason's word for it! :)

Thanks again and blessings.

All of this said, here are some GENERALITIES about the "big four" body woods purely IMHO...
 
Of course the very best way to get a sense of this is to get instruments with all of the different woods under your fingers on a regular basis. At least this is what I told my wife when she asked me why I needed 10+ Monarchs!


J

Thanks Jason. This is all I need to convince Mary why I had to order an Alder bass, an Ash bass, a Mahogany bass and a Walnut bass. Well done! ;)
 
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