Listen to Will. He knows what he's talking about. I gig a similarly sized 1x15 with the Legend CB158 and its a great sounding cab and more than adequate for gigging unless you are stupid loud. If its really just a practice cab, get the Beta & save yourself some $.
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Forgive my ignorance, speaker replacement question/options
- Thread starter sunbrother
- Start date
Your overall volume also depends on your EQ settings. Too much bass boost will kill speakers fast, even if all the "ratings" of each component "match". Based on previous TB posts I've read, the speaker should be double the rating of the amp, especially if you're using only one speaker.
No matter which new speaker you purchase, I suggest purchasing TBr fdeck's HPF V. This will protect your speakers from low end transients from 35hz and below and will also tighten up your tone.
It can also adjust the limit upwards which can help reduce/eliminate boominess in some venues.
Additionally, after fixing your current cab, possibly adding a second 1x15 8ohm cab will give you 225w/per speaker and 450w overall. You'll move more air and have less wattage per speaker. Win, win.
You may also want to read my comments/thread on the topic of speaker replacement. Which is also on my TB Wiki.
Yeah I actually have a more extensive rig at my house, as well better drums and guitar amp. So I have options, but I was looking to use this cab in smaller gig situations.
I would like to pick up an hpf however, but at this point I think the speaker is a higher priority.
I was trying to model it in winsd earlier, but couldn't change the port length parameter. Could this be because I was using the built in specs for the legend?
And as far as the tuning frequency, say I want that speaker, how should I determine the tuning number?
I would like to pick up an hpf however, but at this point I think the speaker is a higher priority.
I was trying to model it in winsd earlier, but couldn't change the port length parameter. Could this be because I was using the built in specs for the legend?
And as far as the tuning frequency, say I want that speaker, how should I determine the tuning number?
Change the tuning frequency of the cabinet, and it will give you back the length needed for that frequency, based on the size and number of ports you've entered.
To reverse engineer your box, take a stab at the tuning frequency, then compare it to your actual port length, and adjust as needed.
These are models. To find the actual tuning frequency of your cab, you pass signal through it and find the frequency where it holds the cone pretty much close to still.
That should be close to the model, but not always right on.
That Legend is fairly forgiving of varying box sizes and port tunings, is a good performer, and thus a good replacement for a lot of bass cabs.
To reverse engineer your box, take a stab at the tuning frequency, then compare it to your actual port length, and adjust as needed.
These are models. To find the actual tuning frequency of your cab, you pass signal through it and find the frequency where it holds the cone pretty much close to still.
That should be close to the model, but not always right on.
That Legend is fairly forgiving of varying box sizes and port tunings, is a good performer, and thus a good replacement for a lot of bass cabs.
Speaker first, of course! Gotta make sound.
But don't wait on the HPF because you might blow the new speaker. One other tip, tilt the cab back at rehearsal (and even gigs) so it's pointing at your ears so you hear yourself better and keep track of when the speaker starts distorting.Tip: put the cabinet on it's back and put some salt on the speaker (remove grill first). When the salt stops moving, you're at the tuning frequency.
HPF's can be very useful if you're dealing with very low frequency boosts, trying to squeeze more performance out of a limited quality speaker system, playing the upright bass, dealing with problem rooms, or running dedicated subwoofers (which these "LF" drivers in some rigs qualify as). Basically, they have a ton of great uses, but you should engineer your speaker system first to where the HPF really isn't needed, or is the icing on the cake (for typical electric slab bass). Then add the HPF and go, "wow".
Yep, all together again. I still have less than 20 hours on it, di I imagine it will break in a bit further, but it sounds massive compared to how it was.
I was a little worried at first because the rim is a bit bigger than the previous speaker and it is closer to the grill. I did the battery test and it has pretty decent xmax. I thought that would carry over more when I put it back together, but my fears subsided when I cranked it and the speaker didn't flinch. It gets huge and warm from my F#-C on my E. I use Power Slinkys and it thumps.
Right now it seems like there's maybe a little less definition in the lows than before, but I'm guessing that's how it's voiced. It's more warm and round sounding.
I do have to take it apart again, however. Whomever put the last speaker in ended up knocking the screws pretty badly and a couple of the holes have lost their threading. I need some wood glue, new screws and patience.
It seems like it might be vibrating the horn a bit too, nothing to worrysome but I'll probably look at it while it's apart. I'm not afraid to gig with it at the moment.
I was a little worried at first because the rim is a bit bigger than the previous speaker and it is closer to the grill. I did the battery test and it has pretty decent xmax. I thought that would carry over more when I put it back together, but my fears subsided when I cranked it and the speaker didn't flinch. It gets huge and warm from my F#-C on my E. I use Power Slinkys and it thumps.
Right now it seems like there's maybe a little less definition in the lows than before, but I'm guessing that's how it's voiced. It's more warm and round sounding.
I do have to take it apart again, however. Whomever put the last speaker in ended up knocking the screws pretty badly and a couple of the holes have lost their threading. I need some wood glue, new screws and patience.
It seems like it might be vibrating the horn a bit too, nothing to worrysome but I'll probably look at it while it's apart. I'm not afraid to gig with it at the moment.
Yup, just go through it and make sure all the screws are tight and have some solid wood to bite down into.
"Warm and round" describes those pretty well. They'll kick pretty good in a mix. Enough definition there but they're not a bright speaker. Good combination of frequency range, xmax, and spl.
"Warm and round" describes those pretty well. They'll kick pretty good in a mix. Enough definition there but they're not a bright speaker. Good combination of frequency range, xmax, and spl.
Got some longer drywall-thread screws, it had 3/4" screws, because the frame was larger I had to move up to 1". Bought wood glue, didn't need it. Sounds as it should now, solid
- Nov 24, 2008
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- Disclosures
- Owner & designer, AudioKinesis; Auth. mfg, Big E (Home Audio only)
I believe that the 300 watt thermal power handling rating of the Eminence Legend CB158 is well on the conservative side. It uses the same motor as the Delta Pro 15A, which is rated at 400 watts thermal. I pointed that out to an Eminence engineer once, and he just said "good catch", rather than explaining to me that there was some reason why the CB158 was rated at only 300 watts. So it's a tougher woofer than it looks on paper.
