Fret not properly seated, causing buzz

[Stagelab]

Fret 2 G string buzzes and I verified with a rocker that fret 3 is high along the G side. I used a hammer to tap that part of fret 3 with a rubber eraser placed in between the fret and the hammer. No improvement. Then I tried a maple dowel instead of the eraser and tapped maybe 30 times. I can still slide a 0.002” feeler gauge under the fret by the edge of the board but I was able to reduce action a hair without the buzz so that’s progress. Should I keep tapping the fret with the hammer and dowel till the feeler gauge can’t slide under the fret end?

 

[Kubicki Fan]

I think you should hire a guitar tech to install a nee fret. There may even be debris in the fret slot, which needs to be ruled out.
More pounding may just loosen the fret more.

If the tech has the matching type of fret wire in stock, the fix may be quick and easy.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

Fret 2 G string buzzes and I verified with a rocker that fret 3 is high along the G side. I used a hammer to tap that part of fret 3 with a rubber eraser placed in between the fret and the hammer. No improvement. Then I tried a maple dowel instead of the eraser and tapped maybe 30 times. I can still slide a 0.002” feeler gauge under the fret by the edge of the board but I was able to reduce action a hair without the buzz so that’s progress. Should I keep tapping the fret with the hammer and dowel till the feeler gauge can’t slide under the fret end?

If tapping it lightly a few times doesn't seat the fret, that means something is keeping it from seating. The slot isn't cut deep enough, or there's some debris in the slot, or the fret end is bent up from its correct radiused shape. Whatever the cause, you should pull the fret, fix the problem, and get it seated solidly. Then level all the frets to get them equal in height.

 

[sunburst79]

What type or brand of bass? I agree with the find a good tech suggestion.

I see this a lot on older Squiers. And one I bought during the pandemic. In this case it’s usually due to the fingerboard drying out over time and the wood itself shrinking to the point it won’t grab the tang. After years of doing my own repairs I’m set up to reseat and glue the frets using CA and a Jaws type fret press. If I find more than about three or the instrument is older and has lived through enough winters I just clamp and glue all the frets. And they are never really well seated. So clamp and glue. Level and re crown and polish polish polish.

Once that’s done the guitar or bass plays fantastic and only needs done once. You can make a cheap Squier play as well as a Fender Custom Shop guitar. But it’s going to take quite a bit of work.

One of the more apt things I’ve read on the internet was someone describing modern CNC guitar production. Which was “They push a tree into one end of the building and shipping boxes come out the other”
There’s maybe a bit of truth to that. All these modern factories can crank out a stunning number of instruments a year at a level of high initial quality. But what they can’t do is age years of production worth of wood for a few years before building. There’s not enough room to store it and it’s expensive. So they use dried lumber. The seasoning happens in the field. That’s why we see fret sprout and loose frets months or years later. Normally it’s just fret sprout. But loose or rising or even sprung frets aren’t uncommon. I’m defining “sprung” as a fret that won’t stay seated and where its curvature or radius causes it to remain proud of the fingerboard and other frets.
The cure for me is to clamp and glue them all and level. I’ve never had a glued fret pop loose.

I’ve never seen a slot not deep enough either. It’s certainly possible. But normally there’s sufficient depth to seat the tang. The problem normally seems to be the slot itself won’t grip the tang enough to allow it to stay seated.

But there are other causes so a tech is advised. The slot could be to shallow. The radius of the fret might not match the fretboard. The frets barbs could be insufficient.

Depending on the quality and the age of the instrument and if there’s any warranty and along with the cause should guide any fretwork decisions.

I like doing this type of work and have gotten used to it. But it takes several hours if your particular about recrowning them perfectly. Work that’s not economically feasible on an older budget guitar unless your really fond of it.

If it’s newer or under warrantee let a service center deal with it. If it’s older consider learning a new skill set.

And sometimes it’s easier in the case of worn frets and unbound natural wood fingerboards to just rip out the old frets and re fret it.

But from your description it seems likely the fret maybe sprung and pushing or lifting itself out of the slot.

The cost of the tools to do this are more than paying a tech. But I acquired mine over the years and they have more than paid for themselves.

Another option is to remove the offending fret and gently radius it. That can work if it’s only one and the problem is due to a mismatch between the board’s radius and the fret’s radius.

A experienced tech will know how to best handle this.

 

[Stagelab]

If tapping it lightly a few times doesn't seat the fret, that means something is keeping it from seating. The slot isn't cut deep enough, or there's some debris in the slot, or the fret end is bent up from its correct radiused shape. Whatever the cause, you should pull the fret, fix the problem, and get it seated solidly. Then level all the frets to get them equal in height.

If I bring the bass to a tech and they determine too that the fret should be pulled and either re-seated or replaced, is it critical they then level all the frets? Or could they just ensure fret 3 is level with 2 and 4? It's a Squier neck I just bought here on TB and while I like it a lot, it's a cheap neck and doesn't warrant the cost of a full leveling, which here is easily $150+.

Like @sunburst79 said, it could be the fret needs some CA and a clamp. If that's the case, would a full leveling be needed?

 

[Dirk Diggler]

Agreed with all above, something is preventing it from seating, my bet is there's something in the slot.
I use a hooked blade to always clean my slots.
I don't use hammers, I press my frets in with my drill press and a caul.

I'd pull the fret and find out, it's not that hard with a proper fret puller and chip stoppers.

Unless you can make it sit perfectly level, yeah you'll need to level the board again.

 

[Thumpin6string]

If it is a cheap neck that is not worth spending money on, you could just leave the fret as is and just level it. That is assuming it is not loose.

 

[Stagelab]

If it is a cheap neck that is not worth spending money on, you could just leave the fret as is and just level it. That is assuming it is not loose.

It’s not loose. I could try a few passes with a fret crowning file, just to shave off a tiny bit along the G string path on fret 3.

 

[Kipp Harrington]

I'm having the same problem with the 3rd fret on the E string. However, in my case, the fret is seated properly and I still get an annoying buzz when I fret that note. I will eventually take the bass to the luthier I utilize. An hour and 45 minute (one way) but worth it, because the guy knows his stuff!

 

[Thumpin6string]

It’s not loose. I could try a few passes with a fret crowning file, just to shave off a tiny bit along the G string path on fret 3.

Worth a shot. A lot cheaper than having it replaced.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

If I bring the bass to a tech and they determine too that the fret should be pulled and either re-seated or replaced, is it critical they then level all the frets? Or could they just ensure fret 3 is level with 2 and 4? It's a Squier neck I just bought here on TB and while I like it a lot, it's a cheap neck and doesn't warrant the cost of a full leveling, which here is easily $150+.

Like @sunburst79 said, it could be the fret needs some CA and a clamp. If that's the case, would a full leveling be needed?

The process of ensuring fret 3 is level with 2 and 4 (and all the others) is what leveling the frets is all about. It's done to all of the frets at the same time using a long straight sanding/grinding beam. The high frets get ground down to be even with the lowest frets. The lowest frets only get lightly touched. Using the long beam over them all at the same time is how you verify that they are exactly level. It's far more accurate than squinting at gaps under a straightedge.

I think this neck is a great opportunity for you to learn how to do fret leveling correctly. It's not difficult, and doesn't require expensive tools.

 

[Stagelab]

The process of ensuring fret 3 is level with 2 and 4 (and all the others) is what leveling the frets is all about. It's done to all of the frets at the same time using a long straight sanding/grinding beam. The high frets get ground down to be even with the lowest frets. The lowest frets only get lightly touched. Using the long beam over them all at the same time is how you verify that they are exactly level. It's far more accurate than squinting at gaps under a straightedge.

I think this neck is a great opportunity for you to learn how to do fret leveling correctly. It's not difficult, and doesn't require expensive tools.

That's true. Thanks Bruce. I'd like to learn how to level, crown, and dress frets properly. I've watched some videos by Stew Mac and others over the years so I understand the gist of it. I'll revisit that material and pick up supplies. Do I need a 16-18" aluminum beam? Which grits paper? And where can I find sandpaper that long— adhesive rolls are huge and I don't need much for the project. Since this will be my first attempt, I'll work on a Squier Affinity J neck that also needs a leveling.

 

[sunburst79]

That's true. Thanks Bruce. I'd like to learn how to level, crown, and dress frets properly. I've watched some videos by Stew Mac and others over the years so I understand the gist of it. I'll revisit that material and pick up supplies. Do I need a 16-18" aluminum beam? Which grits paper? And where can I find sandpaper that long— adhesive rolls are huge and I don't need much for the project. Since this will be my first attempt, I'll work on a Squier Affinity J neck that also needs a leveling.

Definitely start with the Squier.

Something I find handy is a notched straight edge. Make sure the neck is straight and the frets are seated then level just the tops.
I’m the Stew Mac poster boy in some sense but some things can come from Amazon. A notched straight edge is one. Music Nomad has nice stuff. Philadelphia Luthier Tool and Supply has good prices on sanding beams.

I taught myself before YouTube was around. Anyone can do this type of work IMHO. But some of the tools can get pricy if you’re going for big names. Sometimes you can find good tools cheaper. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

It doesn’t take long however for these tools to pay for themselves.

 

[Stagelab]

Definitely start with the Squier.

Something I find handy is a notched straight edge. Make sure the neck is straight and the frets are seated then level just the tops.
I’m the Stew Mac poster boy in some sense but some things can come from Amazon. A notched straight edge is one. Music Nomad has nice stuff. Philadelphia Luthier Tool and Supply has good prices on sanding beams.

I taught myself before YouTube was around. Anyone can do this type of work IMHO. But some of the tools can get pricy if you’re going for big names. Sometimes you can find good tools cheaper. Sometimes you get what you pay for.

It doesn’t take long however for these tools to pay for themselves.

Considering I don’t do a lot of repair work I’m not looking to spend $100+ on tools. But I also don’t want junk. This might be a decent middle ground or it might be junk. https://a.co/d/0c2fIJ8t

 

[sunburst79]

Considering I don’t do a lot of repair work I’m not looking to spend $100+ on tools. But I also don’t want junk. This might be a decent middle ground or it might be junk. https://a.co/d/0c2fIJ8t

That’s probably fine. Most of my stuff is SM but I bought it over the years on sale. Back when they were kind of the only game in town.

I am pretty impressed with Music Nomads offerings also. If I was just getting started and only doing basic maintenance work and setup work I’d look at their stuff.

The Amazon stuff is probably OK. Good files are expensive but you can do a lot with a traditional 3 corner luthiers file.

Great files are a luxury but result in better work or in the case of diamond files much less finishing work.

There maybe other sets out there others recommend. Lots of choices these days.

I did my first fret level with a mill file and a testers model building triangle file back during the Carter Administration. You don’t need fancy tools to get the job done.

But….. Your fret level will come out better with a perfectly flat board. So the notched straight edge is the best start.

 

[Stagelab]

That’s probably fine. Most of my stuff is SM but I bought it over the years on sale. Back when they were kind of the only game in town.

I am pretty impressed with Music Nomads offerings also. If I was just getting started and only doing basic maintenance work and setup work I’d look at their stuff.

The Amazon stuff is probably OK. Good files are expensive but you can do a lot with a traditional 3 corner luthiers file.

Great files are a luxury but result in better work or in the case of diamond files much less finishing work.

There maybe other sets out there others recommend. Lots of choices these days.

I did my first fret level with a mill file and a testers model building triangle file back during the Carter Administration. You don’t need fancy tools to get the job done.

But….. Your fret level will come out better with a perfectly flat board. So the notched straight edge is the best start.

I have the SM fret end dressing file. My skills with it are so so. It’s been difficult dressing multiple frets so the ends look consistent.

 

[sunburst79]

I have the SM fret end dressing file. My skills with it are so so. It’s been difficult dressing multiple frets so the ends look consistent.

I think that’s an acquired skill and the more you do the better they come out.

I had a guitar to recrown with very low wire. It had been poorly leveled and by the time I got it and got it properly leveled the frets were low and wide and flat. I didn’t or couldn’t afford to lose anymore height but needed to bring the sides in a LOT without touching the tops. At the time they happened to have those diamond Z-Files on sale sale for 50% off so I bit the bullet. And it worked exactly as advertised. I was able to get a normal width crown. But I will say that diamond files make a tremendous difference. I could not have achieved this with my older half round steel files. So while an indulgence I’m now a believer.

I normally do a full recrown these days. Then strung up to pitch and recheck for high frets. And normally you’ll find a few with the fret rocker that were perfectly level unloaded. And I’ll spot level them under tension and adjust the crown if need be.

Microleveling under tension gets things perfect.

I’m near sighted so I can really get close to look at things. But better files made for better fret ends. I’m really happy with how things are coming out these days.

You can have perfectly leveled frets under the strings and uneven and raggedy fret ends and it makes your time consuming leveling look careless or jacked up when it plays just fine.

I don’t have any tips or wisdom to impart other than to say once you get them looking consistent it feels rather rewarding. Sometimes it’s just extra work to get them just so. But being able to look at your work and be pleased and to know it’s pretty much perfect. That’s worth time and tool cost. To me at least.

 

[sunburst79]

Considering I don’t do a lot of repair work I’m not looking to spend $100+ on tools. But I also don’t want junk. This might be a decent middle ground or it might be junk. https://a.co/d/0c2fIJ8t

I looked at the specs of that kit and it’s a good starting point. The leveling beam looks like it comes with sand paper and that’s a huge bonus. I did find this buried in the details.

“

• 【Guitar Fret Crowning Luthier File】made of stainless steel, with comfortable ergonomic rubber handle for precise and efficient crowning. The fret crown file has the same filing size on both edges and is suitable for narrow fret crowns after leveling”

That file may not work well or at all on bass fret wire. I wouldn’t let that dissuade me from buying that kit. But did want to point this out. If you work on any guitars at all or have friends with guitars it will see some use. But you may find you’re going to need to purchase a wider crowning fret file to handle wider bass wire. Not a deal breaker in my book just something you should be made aware of. They don’t list any specs for the file other than “Narrow”.

Your gonna need a trip to Home Depot for some skinny painters tape for the higher frets.

You can crown with a standard three corner file and that’s a skill to learn. If the included file doesn’t work that may be your best all around choice. It’s just time consuming.

I like specialty tools personally since they reduce the chances of goofing things up. Or they can give superior results with much less hand filing and sanding out of scratches. But they aren’t “needed” if you can use the basic tools.

Just wanted to point out the narrow file. That may or may not work for bass.

 

[Bruce Johnson]

That's true. Thanks Bruce. I'd like to learn how to level, crown, and dress frets properly. I've watched some videos by Stew Mac and others over the years so I understand the gist of it. I'll revisit that material and pick up supplies. Do I need a 16-18" aluminum beam? Which grits paper? And where can I find sandpaper that long— adhesive rolls are huge and I don't need much for the project. Since this will be my first attempt, I'll work on a Squier Affinity J neck that also needs a leveling.

Here's a thread I wrote last year showing my whole process for installing and finishing frets. On Post #17, I go through the process of leveling the frets:

Thread 'My Fretting Process; Installing, Leveling, Crowning & Polishing'

Sep 14, 2025

We've had many threads here about the fretting process, covering people's different techniques, problems, and tradeoffs. I just fretted one of my Scroll Basses last week, and photographed all the steps. My process has evolved over the years. This is the current way I do it.

Here's the neck. It's one of my Walnut AMB-2 Scroll Basses; a walnut neck with a Macassar ebony fingerboard.

The fingerboard is radiused to 7.25" and slotted, then level sanded with 220, and fine-sanded with 400, grey Scotchbrite and white Scotchbrite. I check the depths of all the slots...

• Bruce Johnson
• Replies: 23
• Forum: Luthier's Corner

• 
• 

I prefer using abrasive stones to level the frets, rather than sandpaper on a beam. The stones are more precise in the leveling, and they last for years. For maybe 25 years, I did all my fret leveling with a simple 8" Norton Medium Oilstone, made for sharpening knives and chisels. It worked very well and never showed any real wear, even on stainless frets. I still use it today for the final cross-wise smoothing. You'll see it in the thread.

Some years back, I developed a special Stone Bar tool specifically for leveling frets easily and accurately. It's an aluminum bar with a row of narrow abrasive stones epoxied along the bottom edge. It works very well. I eventually wore out the first one and made up a pair of new ones of a better design. They are still in use today. Here's a thread all about making and using Stone Bars for leveling frets:

Thread 'Special Tools: Stone Bar For Leveling Frets'

Aug 8, 2017

Here's a special Luthier tool that I'm experimenting with.

I'm not really interested in making or selling these. I built this for my own use, and I may make up a few more for the other guys here in the Lab. Any of you are welcome to grab the basic idea and make your own.

I like leveling my frets using a flat sharpening stone. There are various reasons, but mostly because the stone is very precise, lasts approximately forever, and it minimizes scratches on the frets. I particularly like the stone method on stainless frets, which are what I mostly use these days. My favorite stone is an 8"...

• Bruce Johnson
• frets special tools
• Replies: 34
• Forum: Luthier's Corner

• 
• 

For your immediate needs, I recommend getting a Norton Oilstone and a Sharpie. That's all you need. Practice the leveling technique and eventually make yourself a Stone Bar if you like.

 

[Stagelab]

I looked at the specs of that kit and it’s a good starting point. The leveling beam looks like it comes with sand paper and that’s a huge bonus. I did find this buried in the details.

“

• 【Guitar Fret Crowning Luthier File】made of stainless steel, with comfortable ergonomic rubber handle for precise and efficient crowning. The fret crown file has the same filing size on both edges and is suitable for narrow fret crowns after leveling”

That file may not work well or at all on bass fret wire. I wouldn’t let that dissuade me from buying that kit. But did want to point this out. If you work on any guitars at all or have friends with guitars it will see some use. But you may find you’re going to need to purchase a wider crowning fret file to handle wider bass wire. Not a deal breaker in my book just something you should be made aware of. They don’t list any specs for the file other than “Narrow”.

Your gonna need a trip to Home Depot for some skinny painters tape for the higher frets.

You can crown with a standard three corner file and that’s a skill to learn. If the included file doesn’t work that may be your best all around choice. It’s just time consuming.

I like specialty tools personally since they reduce the chances of goofing things up. Or they can give superior results with much less hand filing and sanding out of scratches. But they aren’t “needed” if you can use the basic tools.

Just wanted to point out the narrow file. That may or may not work for bass.

Good catch. I assume for basses w medium jumbo frets I’d want a “medium” file? What about vintage frets?

That kit has a 16” slotted straightedge for guitars. Is that also an issue?

Maybe one of these files would be better?

Amazon.com: Metallor Guitar Fret Crowning Files Dual Sized Compact Fret Dressing File for Standard Guitar Frets with Coarse and Fine Cutting Edges Rubber Grip Guitar Luthiers Tools Repair Tools. (2mm-Medium) : Musical Instruments

Buy Metallor Guitar Fret Crowning Files Dual Sized Compact Fret Dressing File for Standard Guitar Frets with Coarse and Fine Cutting Edges Rubber Grip Guitar Luthiers Tools Repair Tools. (2mm-Medium): Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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Amazon.com: Vacaboro Guitar Crowning File, Double-Sided Fret Crowning Files Luthier Tools, Professional High Carbon Steel Design Duitar Fret File for Electric, Acoustic and Bass Guitars - MD, LG, XL Frets : Musical Instruments

Buy Vacaboro Guitar Crowning File, Double-Sided Fret Crowning Files Luthier Tools, Professional High Carbon Steel Design Duitar Fret File for Electric, Acoustic and Bass Guitars - MD, LG, XL Frets: Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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