The gray Scotch-Brite work well for dulling the shine on poly.
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From poly to nitro...
- Thread starter Rob Leonard
- Start date
Dulling a poly finish isn't going to happen from normal wear. It'll dent and scratch, but not really get dull like you say you'd like. I can say this because I've got a 24 year old fender that's still plenty glossy. I've heard of some using scotchbrite pads or similar abrasives, can't say I have any experience there.
You cannot do that and have it look good.
It's approximately an $800 process to have a poly finished Fender professionally stripped and refinished in nitro lacquer by Guitar Mill. Less if you can strip the body and neck yourself (not something I would recommend unless you know how to do "stuff").
Is it worth it? That's up to you. If the instrument is a lifer, I say go for it. I will be doing so on my number 1 eventually (already has a lacquer neck, but the Japanese RI body is still the original poly, so it will be cheaper than the $800 figure I quoted). I can strip it myself, but I will not be doing so, as I want MJT to see the natural wear the bass already has, so they can get the lacquer to match it closely.
It's approximately an $800 process to have a poly finished Fender professionally stripped and refinished in nitro lacquer by Guitar Mill. Less if you can strip the body and neck yourself (not something I would recommend unless you know how to do "stuff").
Is it worth it? That's up to you. If the instrument is a lifer, I say go for it. I will be doing so on my number 1 eventually (already has a lacquer neck, but the Japanese RI body is still the original poly, so it will be cheaper than the $800 figure I quoted). I can strip it myself, but I will not be doing so, as I want MJT to see the natural wear the bass already has, so they can get the lacquer to match it closely.
I’ve used cutting compound for a satin finish. Works much better that scotchbrite or steel wool. More even and less scratchy and swirly.
You can put nitro over poly. Build up the nitro, sanding with 0000 steel wool in-between coats. Heat it in the sun and use a can of r134 to cool it down quickly, it will crack and look like an old finish. I'm sure a bunch of people will say I'm wrong, you have to to the south pole etc to do it right.
+1 grey scotchbrite, you can vary how aggressively it cuts with hand pressure. The white ones will barely touch poly, but that might be good if you want a very light satin. DONT use steel wool, awful stuff that sticks to pups, rusts, etc. As others have said, the best relic job is real honest playing wear. Faking it nearly always looks cheesy.
