Double Bass Full Circle problem

[Clarkybass]

Hi all, I was just about to soundcheck at our gig last night and accidentally snagged my pickup lead on an amp, wrenching the jack socket of my FC pickup off my 3/4 bass quite forcibly. After reinstalling the jack socket on the string after-length I had a major problem - notes on the A string were quacking and making a nasty electronic clank and the E was totally muffled. I tried the FC through my Headway as a DI, sidestepping my Acoustic Image amp, and the problem was identical - basically it was unusable (thankfully the gig was near my home and my lovely wife came to the rescue in a taxi with my Kolstein bass)

I assume I have jerked the pickup wire and that this has damaged the FC. Any suggestions about what I should do here, folks? Have I killed it, which makes it an expensive accident?

 

[fdeck]

I've not done it myself, nor needed to, but it's my understanding that a FC can be opened up and repaired. The connections between a cable and any piezo element are by necessity rather delicate.

 

[Clarkybass]

Thanks Francis (and thanks for your PM too, regarding the Mk3). I am not confident I should go anywhere near repairing the FC. I also fear causing all manner of other bridge/soundpost related problems too. Unless I can find someone capable of repairing this at a reasonable price I think I may have to cut my losses, snip the wire and just use it as an adjustable bridge with another pickup

 

[Stick_Player]

I've gone wireless.

Using the Line 6 Relay G50. Hook the transmitter on the bow quiver. No wires!

G50 receiver into Fishman Platinum Pro into PJB Super Flightcase.

Perfect

 

[Clarkybass]

Line 6 G50s are the equivalent of well over $500 here in the UK. I will stick with my leads/cables but just be more careful in future, having learned (what I assume will be) an expensive lesson here!

 

[Stick_Player]

Line 6 G50s are the equivalent of well over $500 here in the UK. I will stick with my leads/cables but just be more careful in future, having learned (what I assume will be) an expensive lesson here!

I know, it's not an inexpensive route. But it does work well.

 

[Clarkybass]

Well gents I am a bit ashamed to say that re-fitting the bridge (which I can see now I am not on a darkened stage was wrenched too, so that the E foot was at an angle to the adjuster wheel) has solved the problem. The good news is it is fixed. I am, however, embarrassed to have solicited your advice when I should have waited to try some bridge adjustment first.

Still all's well that ends well

 

[Michael Eisenman]

Lucky you. Better than having ripped the wire out of the element.

 

[robobass]

Well gents I am a bit ashamed to say that re-fitting the bridge (which I can see now I am not on a darkened stage was wrenched too, so that the E foot was at an angle to the adjuster wheel) has solved the problem. The good news is it is fixed. I am, however, embarrassed to have solicited your advice when I should have waited to try some bridge adjustment first.

Still all's well that ends well

Don't apologize. It's a good topic anyway. You might consider doing what I did: I fashioned a metal bracket to hold the 1/4" jack to the lower back of the tailpiece with screws. This way if someone trips over the cable it won't affect the bridge or the delicate wire going to the pickup. Guitar cables are much cheaper to repair/replace than pickups and bridges!

 

[Clarkybass]

Hi robobass I will be in your country on business on Wednesday in Frankfurt and I know Lando Music sells some rather neat bridge clamps for double bass - If my schedule allows I will pop in and buy one of these and clamp the Full Circle to the rear of the bridge as you suggest Invalid Link Removed

 

[robobass]

Hi robobass I will be in your country on business on Wednesday in Frankfurt and I know Lando Music sells some rather neat bridge clamps for double bass - If my schedule allows I will pop in and buy one of these and clamp the Full Circle to the rear of the bridge as you suggest Invalid Link Removed

Ah! that works too, and is simple to install. My holder is mounted down at the bottom of the TP, so less effect on sound, and better containment of any energy from boots pulling on cables. You need to take down the setup to do it, though.

 

[arnoldschnitzer]

Also consider the David Gage Docking Station, which clips into the tailpiece and is held by the string. It gives you a volume and defeat control and a secure place to plug both the pickup and your cable.

 

[fdeck]

Lots of good ideas for jack mounting. Just to mention my el cheapo method: Wrap the jack in a couple layers of bike innertube rubber (plentiful in my house) then attach to the tailpiece with one of those velcro cable wraps.

 

[DoubleMIDI]

I don't think the David Gage Docking Station is a good idea in most cases because of the volume control. It means there is some potentiometer that won't work well with a passive piezo output.
And since it is rather heavy it might fall down by accident if you change the strings and damage the bass. (I think it is hold by two strings, so it might not happen if you change one string after the other, but it might happen if you change the bridge and loosen all strings.)

 

[Michael Eisenman]

I have the jack on my tailpiece, similarly to how fdeck recommended. From there, I run the cable loosely down to the endpin plug and wrap Velcro around it all as a strain relief.

 

[threetone]

I used an extra Realist clip, lined it with double sided tape and a piece of rubber.
Works great.