Double Bass Full Circle Questions Thread, Another

[VegasGutPlucker]

I bit the bullet and installed a Full Circle on my bass a few gigs ago. It does give me more usable volume than the Dyn-B I've been putting up with for years. While this helps me keep the gigs I have, it's not a magic bullet.

Some issues and questions:

**My bass is threads UP. I'm using Dlugolecki G and D, and Garbo Light E and A (to be replaced soon with Garbo regulars) and I'm using the Acoustic Image Clarus 1 series 3 into the Crazy 88. So there's that.**

Are those screws the elements? I was led to believe they should be at cardinal points relative to the bass for the best sound, but have read about turning it to adjust the tone. I haven't noticed too big a difference when it turns aside from the resulting height changing the tone/string feel.
Over all, the E and A are very strong. As soon as I move to the G (and less so, the D) the sound loses so much energy comparatively. To compensate I've been turning the bass tone knob down quite a bit and turning up overal volume, but this doesn't seem to be addressing the issue, just masking it.
I have an Fdeck on the way, no way of knowing what that'll do to the overal sound so if someone has a similar setup I'd appreciate some input.

 

[Kai Sanchez]

When you're unplugged, acoustically, do you hear a difference in sound between the Garbos and the Gut strings?

 

[VegasGutPlucker]

Not that I can hear. If anything the guts are cleaner and punchier than the garbo lights. I think a little more tension from the Garbo regulars will give more snap to the E and A acoustically.
This D and G have been on there for, geez, 3 years maybe 4?

 

[gnergaard]

I have the same issue with my bass.

 

[jmlee]

I don't get the EA DG difference on my bass with the FC and Weichs. You only get a sound change over a 45 deg rotation since there are 4 elements internally arranged like a cross or X. The external screws are to disassemble the newer FCs.

 

[Pat Harris]

To the OP, I've had this issue with my FC on occasion and it's usually the result of the bridge not being totally in the "sweet spot." Acoustically, the instrument may sound great, but when plugged in, you either get an emphasis on the E and A or D and G strings. I've found that a gentle tap to the bridge, even to just pop the feet from where they may be sticking to the top can make a huge difference in how the pickup responds with your instrument. Have you tried tapping your bridge a few millimeters in either direction? The smallest distance toward the treble or bass side can make a big difference in the way the pickup works with your instrument.

 

[Michael Eisenman]

Of course, making sure that the bridge is properly positioned is important, but the most important thing with the Full Circle is to ensure that the face of the wheel is absolutely flush with the bridge foot. In the OP's case, in which the threads are up, there must no gap between the wheel face and the lower bridge foot.

 

[VegasGutPlucker]

Thanks for the responses!

...there are 4 elements internally arranged like a cross or X. The external screws are to disassemble the newer FCs.

So then where are the elements? Should I be aiming to have the screws at the cardinals or otherwise?

Have you tried tapping your bridge a few millimeters in either direction? The smallest distance toward the treble or bass side can make a big difference in the way the pickup works with your instrument.

I try to stay on top of where the bridge is positioned each and every time I play. I'm afraid to say this is because my bridge sometimes gets knocked left or right ways due to me carrying it through doors and needs to be centered either latitudinally or longitudinally from time to time. I also religiously try to keep it at 90 degrees to the table with the occasional tap or pull. The E garbo light is coming unwound at the bridge and may be pulling the bridge to or fro when I tune, another reason the string is due to be replaced when replacements arrive, ASAP.

In the OP's case, in which the threads are up, there must no gap between the wheel face and the lower bridge foot.

Thanks to the due dilligence of the members herein, I was prepared to correct any unevenness in the bridge feet and properly responded with sandpaper and calculated twistings. It is as flush as my eye can measure.
I must admit, this is the original bridge (going on 10 years old) and should be replaced anyway on account of the pickup and plenitude of string oilings. I have a good good friend at Lemur that needs a visit, some beer, and some laughs and a new bridge proper will be provided.

 

[iiipopes]

Have you read the owner's manual, which you can download online from Fishman? It talks about the placement of the elements in the adjuster and how to rotate a quarter or eighth turn for "full" versus "dry" tone, and the necessity of having proper alignment at all points for best contact and transmission. My bass can go from full to almost non-existant if the bridge gets bumped and I have to realign everything. Fortunately, that doesn't happen too often, and a slight tap or slightest nudge rotating one way or the other of the adjuster usually sorts everything out. I also have my adjusters "screws up." It does have a darker tone that way, but my CCB is so bright and growly that it needs it. If you're playing an inherently dark string on a dark bass, maybe the pickup needs to be re-installed threads down instead to get all the presence you seem to be lacking, when you do get a new bridge.

 

[Mike Arnopol]

They make it seem like the FC is plug and play---it's anything but. I use it--but I've spent tons of time obsessing about the setup. 1/4 turn makes a HUGE difference. The tilt of the bridge front to back makes a huge difference. And getting a perfect surface is critical. I literally glued a circle of fine sandpaper on a spare wheel and put the bridge back in place, got some tension on the strings, and did slight rotations to get a perfect mating surface.