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Future Impact now available!! WAS: deep impact reissue!!! interested?

How do you compare the Marbkass to the FI ?

They are very different beasts... the FI synth sounds are infinitely fatter than those in the Super Synth (4 oscillators in the FI, 3 in the SS), the FI has 99 patches to the 9 in the SS and a good selection of FX you can use with or without the oscillators, but the SS has a really good octaver and has the edge on tracking (for my playing anyway). I would keep the SS just for the octaver but I like a couple of its synth patches as well.

ficelles
 
How do you compare the Marbkass to the FI ?

The FI can do everything and way more then the super synth. I have the super synth and FI and at the moment I have just replicated all my needed sounds from the super synth onto the FI.

I play in a dance band and have built songs around the supersynth pedal but am in the process of swapping it out for my FI.. just need to re organize the board now.

Sure the Markbass is a lot stronger construction wise. But totally and flexibility the FI is so much more impressive. Oh and it is heaps easier to power. None of this 12v 550ma rubbish. The FI runs on 100ma on 9v. So much better for everyone putting together a board.
 
Quick question that may or may not have been asked.

Will at any point the pedal be changed? Like a version 2? Or anything like that? I'm just curious as I sold mine too quickly and want to get another one

Oh and will there ever be dealers involved so we don't have to mess with the whole VAT/import thing?
 
Quick question that may or may not have been asked.

Will at any point the pedal be changed? Like a version 2? Or anything like that? I'm just curious as I sold mine too quickly and want to get another one

Oh and will there ever be dealers involved so we don't have to mess with the whole VAT/import thing?

And what happens if there are warranty issues that need to be fixed? Do we have to ship it all the way back to Budapest?
 
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And what happens if there are warranty issues that need to be fixed? Do we have to ship it all the way back to Budapest?

yup!

excerpt from the user manual:

The customer must pay for the cost of shipping the device back to the manufacturer. It is up to the customer what shipping service will be used for the return, but it is the customer's responsibility to ensure that the manufacturer receives the device. The cost of repairing the device and sending back the repaired device to the customer will be covered by the manufacturer during the warranty period of two years. After the warranty period the cost of repairing and postage has to be paid by the customer. It is the manufacturer's responsibility to ensure that it is received by the customer.
 
Will at any point the pedal be changed? Like a version 2? Or anything like that?

The name of the pedal is Future Impact "I".
I wouldn't bank on 'II' to come out anytime soon since the pedal did come out end of December 2015....so just at 3 months now. Maybe someone should start a list on who would be interested in a Future Impact II. :thumbsup:
 
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Maybe someone should start a list on who would be interested in a Future Impact II. :thumbsup:

giphy.gif
 
yup!

excerpt from the user manual:

The customer must pay for the cost of shipping the device back to the manufacturer. It is up to the customer what shipping service will be used for the return, but it is the customer's responsibility to ensure that the manufacturer receives the device. The cost of repairing the device and sending back the repaired device to the customer will be covered by the manufacturer during the warranty period of two years. After the warranty period the cost of repairing and postage has to be paid by the customer. It is the manufacturer's responsibility to ensure that it is received by the customer.

User manual...... heh.
 
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I'm really starting to get my head around this pedal and am really enjoying creating sounds. However today I had one of the lights on the bank stop working it is the horizontal line in the middle. this happened while I was editing on the computer. Anybody else come across this? Here is a pic for reference. It is supposed to say bank 9. View attachment 832093

Too bad, this is the very first case of a hardware malfunction. But of course, this can happen sometimes, it cannot be avoided. Do not worry, you have a warranty on your FI. But of course, it would make life much easier for both of us if you do not have to send it back to Hungary.

1. Where are you located?
2. Do you have a minimal technical skill to disassemble the box (no soldering necessary, just screws)?

99% probability that one of the 7 segments on the LED display chip burned out for some reason. They are sitting in sockets, very easy to change. If you feel that you are able to do the disassembly (no worry, it is really easy) then I would do the following:

1. I send you a description how to disassemble the FI;
2. Try to swap this display with any of the other two. Then you can tell me for sure if the display chip is the reason (I believe this will be positive).
3. If this is the case then I just send you a new display chip in an envelope.

Andras Szalay
 
Too bad, this is the very first case of a hardware malfunction. But of course, this can happen sometimes, it cannot be avoided. Do not worry, you have a warranty on your FI. But of course, it would make life much easier for both of us if you do not have to send it back to Hungary.

1. Where are you located?
2. Do you have a minimal technical skill to disassemble the box (no soldering necessary, just screws)?

99% probability that one of the 7 segments on the LED display chip burned out for some reason. They are sitting in sockets, very easy to change. If you feel that you are able to do the disassembly (no worry, it is really easy) then I would do the following:

1. I send you a description how to disassemble the FI;
2. Try to swap this display with any of the other two. Then you can tell me for sure if the display chip is the reason (I believe this will be positive).
3. If this is the case then I just send you a new display chip in an envelope.

Andras Szalay


1. I am located in southern Western Australia.
2. I am more than capable of following instructions.

if you want you can pm me any details.

Thankyou for your help. I'm not too bothered by it as I am blown away by what this pedal can do, but if it is fixable I will definitely be doing that.
 
1. I am located in southern Western Australia.
2. I am more than capable of following instructions.

if you want you can pm me any details.

Thankyou for your help. I'm not too bothered by it as I am blown away by what this pedal can do, but if it is fixable I will definitely be doing that.

I can make this public, sooner or later some other users may profit on this information too. I made a description as a doc file, with photos. Here it is:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
This description will help you to disassemble the Future Impact. Read this instructions, and go ahead to do it only if you are certain that you are able to perform it without damaging the device.

Tools:
One tool is essential, a Torx TX10 screwdriver. While it is not the most common screwdriver, it can be purchased in most tool shops. One particular source is Invalid Link Removed the product name is Goldtool TG-210.

You may need a few socket-wrenches. While the female screws of the jack sockets and the data wheel can be loosened or tightened with pliers as well, socket-wrenches are advised, as they surely will not scratch the device. You need size 15 (mm) for the jack sockets, 11 for the data wheel, and 14 for the footswitches, if that must be removed as well.

You may need a flat, wide normal screwdriver as well if you have to remove one of the 7 segment display chips.

Tools: d01.jpg

-- Remove all four potentiometer knobs. See the documentation “oring.doc” how to do it.

-- Remove the four screws that keep the bottom plate. Keep them separately from the next screws, since these are somewhat shorter (d02.jpg).
-- The lower board is fixed with one screw between the DIN sockets, and the two jack sockets. Remove the screw (d03.jpg).

-- Remove the female screws from the jack sockets (d04.jpg)

-- The two boards are interconnected with a horizontal connector in between them. To loosen the connection start to push gently the two jack sockets (d05.jpg), and take out the lower board (d06.jpg, d07.jpg).

-- Take off the female screw of the data wheel (d08.jpg).

-- Remove the three screws that keep the upper board (d09.jpg), and take out the board (d10.jpg).

-- If you have a reason the remove the display chip, push a flat screwdriver between the socket and the display, and loosen the display with firmly turning the screwdriver until you can lift out the display (d11.jpg, d12.jpg, d13.jpg).

When assembling back again, beware when you push back the lower board on the interconnection. Double check that all 10 pins found their correct position.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Let me know the result of the test that I described before. This will tell us if the display is faulty indeed.

Andras Szalay

d01.jpg d02.jpg d03.jpg d04.jpg d05.jpg d06.jpg d07.jpg d08.jpg d09.jpg d10.jpg d11.jpg d12.jpg d13.jpg
 
I'm really starting to get my head around this pedal and am really enjoying creating sounds. However today I had one of the lights on the bank stop working it is the horizontal line in the middle. this happened while I was editing on the computer. Anybody else come across this?

Yeah mine has done this briefly on a couple of occasions. I hope it's not an Aussie thing! If it does it regularly i'll try opening her up @Andras Szalay style. Maybe some contact cleaner on the display legs.
 
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Yeah mine has done this briefly on a couple of occasions. I hope it's not an Aussie thing! If it does it regularly i'll try opening her up @Andras Szalay style. Maybe some contact cleaner on the display legs.

Didn't you have this on the rightmost display? Then it is due to the parameter selector potentiometer flickering between positions.

Andras Szalay
 
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