G&L Club Part 7

[funkgod]

Here are my quartet

From L to R
black MK1 series E, slots ebony board Scheller mechines
antique burst, ( i call mk 2) series E, allen key poles, ebony neck, G&L tuners
red L2000 ( i call mk 3) same as MK2 but just on the change with the newer neck,
Ash L2000 ( leo fender Sig) ( i call MK4) this is a very early one that became the mainstay for all the rest with the L. fender sig on the headstock he got told to remove

 

[/\/\3phist0]

is that how you approach how much air to put into your cars tires? When you have multiple basses the only accurate way to get them all setup the same is by measurements.

Set up the same, is not necessarily the same as setup best for the bass itself.
Some will setup lower, due to string type/string guage/ neck angle/ fret dressing etcetera.

When you fill your tires, do you air them to the spec on the tire, or to the car MFG door post sticker?
Do you put the exact same tire that came installed from the factory?

 

[Bassclef46]

Set up the same, is not necessarily the same as setup best for the bass itself.
Some will setup lower, due to string type/string guage/ neck angle/ fret dressing etcetera.

When you fill your tires, do you air them to the spec on the tire, or to the car MFG door post sticker?
Do you put the exact same tire that came installed from the factory?

Yes and yes. Don't overthink it.

 

[ped]

Yes and yes. Don't overthink it.

I think 'overthinking it' is measuring it in fractions of a mm and making sure every instrument is the 'same'

 

[Bassclef46]

Yes. Yes of course it is.

Being serious for a minute - why do you want every bass to be the same? Given the variables alluded to such as string type, neck type, pickup and playing position, it would be nonsense to set each relief and action using measurements alone, wouldn't it?

..a bit like using the same tyre pressure for every car you've ever owned?

No it wouldn't. Why would using measurements be nonsense regardless of the type of bass. you can set them up any way you want. But using measurements is the best way to follow whatever baseline you use to begin your setup.
Even is using different tires and different vehicles the tires still have a measurement as a standard. You can change that standard to what you prefer but if eyeballing it is your thing then so be it. You don't eyeball tire pressure do you? Yes you can use feel for action relief pickup height ect. But using measurements is the best way to get accuracy.

 

[ped]

Accuracy in what, though? If I'm happy with the feel, is that not 'accurate'? You're changing what you said now anyway and I'm losing interest. And yes, talk to anyone interested in driving and tyre pressures are quite open to adjustment. F1 tyres don't have the PSi on the side.

You do you - whatever makes you happy (can you measure that?)

 

[ProbablyTooLoud]

Hey G&L Peeps,

I'd like independent confirmation that:

1. The black pickguard, ordered from G&L to replace the tort beneath it, does not, indeed, fit.
2. Since G&L made the bass and have the serial number, they should, indeed, be able to send me a pickguard that does, indeed, fit.

It took me a rather annoying phone call with a salty dude from their service department to confirm that yes, the one they sent does not fit and that yes, they should send me another.

Am I off-base here?

 

[ped]

Confirmed

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

Seconded.

Either that or you're missing a string.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Yes and yes. Don't overthink it.

Yes to which?
Pillar spec pressure?
Tire spec pressure?
Same size,model,mafacturer of tire?

You drive in wet winter climates with racing tires, because that's what the factory put on?

Rigid adherence to string height measurement, that does not account for string type, elasticity, accuracy of the wrap being even in circumference for the cylindrical length, and a world of other variables. This may yeild consistent results, but not optimal.

My basses ALWAYS set up lower than a factory spec. Of course I dress my own frets if needed. I select the string that best suits the bass and my tone goals, playing style.

** You use the EXACT STRINGS THE FACTORY INSTALLED?
otherwise the specs have little to no value.

If measuring works for you, FANTASTIC.

This in no way is superior to experience addressing the variable to achieve a "better" result .

I always go with the Tire mfg spec, tires installed are always the same outer diameter, but wider, with a lower sidewall ratio. Better performance for my driving conditions (I'm in California, I seldom need snow rated) longer wearing, better handling, ride, and MPG.

I replace my wiper blades with better.
When the shocks soften, I go to a better spec there. I always use Synthetic oil.
But I know what I'm doing with a car, hobbiest restorer of VWs at one time.
Mopar street lethal cars too.

I built basses and guitars at G&L for most of a decade.

I build basses from scratch now.





'Da hell do I know?

 

[Holdsg]

Mephisto knows stuff, that's enough for me to listen to him

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Mephisto knows stuff, that's enough for me to listen to him

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I did play my 10-ish lb L-1000 for about an hour today, and OMG sounded just heavenly. Just sayin'.

Sparkle is @ 9lbs 10 0z.
I much prefer my 7 lb frankenjazz for long gigs though ,

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I've been doing rehearsals the past few weeks for the July 4th parade with my old band.
Has been good to play with old friends.

have been using my L1505. It's relatively light at 9.0 lbs. Midweek last week while practicing at home the tone went bad. It all turned to mud, distorted & picked up a warbling, somewhat oscillating sound.

I pulled the control cavity cover off, noted that the preamp circuit board was loose in the compartment. Seems like it was just glued to a strip of foam that was in turn glued to the backside of two of the pots. I didn't have anything available at the time to re-attach, so I put it back where it was & padded it with a tissue to prevent movement & changed the battery while I was in there.

Played it yesterday morning at the church service & seemed fine. Drove up north last night for another rehearsal & brought my L2k Hog.
While I miss the low C and D on a couple of songs, the Hog just has more punch.

I'm not trying to further the weight/tone discussion, but the mahogany body certainly seems to influence tone; but there's a price to pay for that tone.

Thinking of using the Hog in the parade.

Different animals. It's far more than the wood.

I seldom use the line driver "preamp" since the signal without it is so hot, it's not needed, and as to the treble boost? Never since I stopped using a huge effects chain, and miles of cable.


I do love a good hog body though.

Similar tone contribs , with less weight can be achieved with another beautiful wood, Okoume. I wish it was more prevalent and obtainable.

 

[jglunt]

In the end, the G&L specs are there for a reason. Speaking for myself, I believe that reason indicates a starting point. When I got my first G&L and found those specs--.018 to .022 if I remember right--I picked the middle and set up that bass at .020. I played it there for a while, but it was uncomfortable, so eventually I dialed in more relief until it got comfortable. Once I played it there for a while, I measured the relief and it was .014. So now that is the starting point I use on my subsequent G&L basses (and others as well). If it feels comfortable there, it stays there. If not, I tweak it again until I find the sweet spot for that bass with whatever strings I've put on it. So I use measurements as one of several tools to help find what will feel to me right eventually.

 

[funkgod]

Hey G&L Peeps,

I'd like independent confirmation that:

1. The black pickguard, ordered from G&L to replace the tort beneath it, does not, indeed, fit.
2. Since G&L made the bass and have the serial number, they should, indeed, be able to send me a pickguard that does, indeed, fit.

It took me a rather annoying phone call with a salty dude from their service department to confirm that yes, the one they sent does not fit and that yes, they should send me another.

Am I off-base here?

View attachment 4319953

Yes ! i can confirm....
G&L after sales or parts is USELESS, the worst i have ever come across
absolute bunch of useless self rightious to$$er$ ! JMO.
Now i know im going to upset some people here and im sure some have had parts in a timely period.

i tried over the years to order various parts most cases i was lucky to get an answer in a month ...if at all !!
my last and the very last time i will ever try, i tried to order a coil for an old pick up, i needed it quick as i had shows and recording to do with my goto bass, i sent them about 3 to 4 messages and it took them a month to tell me i had to order the whole pick up, if its not in a picture on there site they do not want to know, just awfull back up, ok fair enough,,, but a month !
my message to G&L...
i like your basses ( older ones !) but for gods sake do something about your back up service cus it sucks.
Again... Just my opinion.

 

[Jamie Hale]

Yes ! i can confirm....
G&L after sales or parts is USELESS, the worst i have ever come across
absolute bunch of useless self rightious tossers ! JMO.
Now i know im going to upset some people here and im sure some have had parts in a timely period.

i tried over the years to order various parts most cases i was lucky to get an answer in a month ...if at all !!
my last and the very last time i will ever try, i tried to order a coil for an old pick up, i needed it quick as i had shows and recording to do with my goto bass, i sent them about 3 to 4 messages and it took them a month to tell me i had to order the whole pick up, if its not in a picture on there site they do not want to know, just awfull back up, ok fair enough,,, but a month !
my message to G&L...
i like your basses ( older ones !) but for gods sake do something about your back up service cus it sucks.
Again... Just my opinion.

For me, the L2500 I purchased a few months ago is how I define G&L. I strongly support builders like Genzler and Bergantino, who participate in the forums, and give excellent service. And I do not support builders like Ibanez, where service is nonexistent. Hoping G&L isn't like Ibanez, as I would hate to sell off my G&L at a deep loss just so I never have to see it again!

 

[eccles77]

Hey Funkgod, did you have to pay the rather niffty $55 worth of UPS shipping to the UK as well?

 

[jglunt]

Hey G&L Peeps,

I'd like independent confirmation that:

1. The black pickguard, ordered from G&L to replace the tort beneath it, does not, indeed, fit.
2. Since G&L made the bass and have the serial number, they should, indeed, be able to send me a pickguard that does, indeed, fit.

It took me a rather annoying phone call with a salty dude from their service department to confirm that yes, the one they sent does not fit and that yes, they should send me another.

Am I off-base here?
View attachment 4319953

That's sure enough a bad fit. How did you come to order a pickguard from G&L? Is this a warranty situation? If not--if you're buying the pickguard--why not buy one from pickguardplanet.com? They have the templates for almost all the G&L Fullerton instruments, and they'll even make pickguards for Tributes if you send them the original pickguard so they can use it as a template. I had them make one for my Fullerton Kiloton and it fit perfectly.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

In the end, the G&L specs are there for a reason. Speaking for myself, I believe that reason indicates a starting point. When I got my first G&L and found those specs--.018 to .022 if I remember right--I picked the middle and set up that bass at .020. I played it there for a while, but it was uncomfortable, so eventually I dialed in more relief until it got comfortable. Once I played it there for a while, I measured the relief and it was .014. So now that is the starting point I use on my subsequent G&L basses (and others as well). If it feels comfortable there, it stays there. If not, I tweak it again until I find the sweet spot for that bass with whatever strings I've put on it. So I use measurements as one of several tools to help find what will feel to me right eventually.

Yes, but at one time, they specced that you adjust the string to the lowest it can go without buzz from the 12th fret up , and use the truss rod to lower the overall action as low as you like, as long as it's buzz free.

This is the basic idology behind my methodology.

If the neck can't get flat without buzz I chase the high fret(s) till I can.

Once that's achieved , I add a smidge of relief, less than .016" more on the order of .010.

The nut also NEEDS to be lower than it typically comes from the factory.

The mfg spec by DESIGN is to compensate for inaccuracies in mfg, and to provide buzz free performance for even the most hammer handed player.

** Stiffer strings require less relief, more elastic (or light guage) a bit more, and may also require a slightly higher overall action.
Flats can, as a general rule get lower, due to their (generally) relative rigidity, consistent surface wrapping, the faster decay in the vibrational amplitude.