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G&L Club Part 7

#20,661
metron said:
Lefty Interceptor neck?
Click to expand...
No, edge dotted as a Righty.
Factory mistake, which happened.
The drilling for the side dots was done while neck was still in block form, by hand with a jig and drill press.
If it was not marked to be a lefty (s.o.).

The fretboard location was not noticed when it came off the gluing press and marked SOLH.
It could have been drilled wrong.
I may have done it once or twice.
 
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#20,664
LowEndLobster said:
Hey all! Here's my latest vid comparing the G&L Fallout Tribute against the Sterling by Music Man Stingray Short Scale. Both of these little basses have some real KICK!

Click to expand...


Great review. I have to give both of those basses an A+ as far as what you get for the money. I played a Tribute Fallout last month and it was maybe the favorite short scale I've ever played. The Stingray still had that classic Ray tone, so if that is your thing they seemed to have gotten that part right. I like the Fallout because of the exceptionally full tone of that MFD bucker in the "neck" position. It is really full and fat sounding.
 
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#20,665
So I was talking to a guitar tech today about a problem I'm having with the bass control on my El Toro, and he said something a little suspect and I wanted to tap into the hive mind.

Here's the problem: the bass control does nothing for about 50% of the rotation, then there is a small sound like flipping a pickup selector and suddenly it turns on and works normally for the rest of the rotation. I think this is a problem with the pot and I can fix it by replacing the 1 Mohm reverse pot.

The tech guy said I couldn't do that because if the bass is active you can't just replace some of the parts and expect the problem to go away. I told him the bass has a preamp, but it is discrete from the passive treble cut and bass cut controls, and I should be able to fix the problem by replacing the seemingly-faulty pot without needing to replace any other components. Or is it possibly a cap in the bass cut circuit and the pot is fine?

Am I right, or is tech guy right? Please help!
 
#20,666
jbhaugh said:
So I was talking to a guitar tech today about a problem I'm having with the bass control on my El Toro, and he said something a little suspect and I wanted to tap into the hive mind.

Here's the problem: the bass control does nothing for about 50% of the rotation, then there is a small sound like flipping a pickup selector and suddenly it turns on and works normally for the rest of the rotation. I think this is a problem with the pot and I can fix it by replacing the 1 Mohm reverse pot.

The tech guy said I couldn't do that because if the bass is active you can't just replace some of the parts and expect the problem to go away. I told him the bass has a preamp, but it is discrete from the passive treble cut and bass cut controls, and I should be able to fix the problem by replacing the seemingly-faulty pot without needing to replace any other components. Or is it possibly a cap in the bass cut circuit and the pot is fine?

Am I right, or is tech guy right? Please help!
Click to expand...

A bad pot should be able to be replaced whether the bass is active or passive.
If you're getting the same phenomenon in passive and active modes, I'd say it's the pot.
Replace the pot.
 
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#20,668
jbhaugh said:
So I was talking to a guitar tech today about a problem I'm having with the bass control on my El Toro, and he said something a little suspect and I wanted to tap into the hive mind.

Here's the problem: the bass control does nothing for about 50% of the rotation, then there is a small sound like flipping a pickup selector and suddenly it turns on and works normally for the rest of the rotation. I think this is a problem with the pot and I can fix it by replacing the 1 Mohm reverse pot.

The tech guy said I couldn't do that because if the bass is active you can't just replace some of the parts and expect the problem to go away. I told him the bass has a preamp, but it is discrete from the passive treble cut and bass cut controls, and I should be able to fix the problem by replacing the seemingly-faulty pot without needing to replace any other components. Or is it possibly a cap in the bass cut circuit and the pot is fine?

Am I right, or is tech guy right? Please help!
Click to expand...
He is flat wrong. All controls are passive. I have said it 1000 times, I'll say it again. The preamp is a non adjustable line boost. The treble boost setting on the switch , in actuality, removes the LPF on the circuit board.
Never let him touch your bass again.

If it were the cap, it would not work at all.
 
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#20,669
ProbablyTooLoud said:
I ordered it from their website, because I figured since they made the bass, they'd be able to send me the right pickguard.
Click to expand...
I have no inside knowledge of this but I suspect they sub contract item like PG manufacture.
Based on owning, seeing, and reading about QC issues, the later basses are really challenged with holding tolerances.
 
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#20,671
Grabbed a late 90s L2000 at the BassShop. Beautiful solid birdseye neck!

e2tqctofm2jeamph0bq3~2.jpg
 
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#20,673
/\/\3phist0 said:
He is flat wrong. All controls are passive. I have said it 1000 times, I'll say it again. The preamp is a non adjustable line boost. The treble boost setting on the switch , in actuality, removes the LPF on the circuit board.
Never let him touch your bass again.

If it were the cap, it would not work at all.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the confirmation, that's exactly what I thought. And no worries, he never touched it. :thumbsup:
 
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#20,679
Holdsg said:
@bdgotoh when you were at bass shop sea-tac did you try out the L1K pharaoh gold? I've been eyeing that one, but can't right now.
Click to expand...

I'll check it out when I'm there tomorrow, Gary. I assume it's awesome, I had one just like that a few years back. I've never played a bad L1000, they just aren't necessary for me because most of my L2000s have OMG series wiring and I really like having 2 pickups.
 
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