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Dumb question. Anyone here sanded off the little 'wave' point on the headstock? I have this nagging desire to do this to make it more like the original models or current CLF style.
I have seen pictures of it done. I have never liked the end result. Removing it does not really get you to the CLF style as much as you think it might. It just looks odd without it IMO.
I'm one who really likes the G&L Headstock (I like Epiphone headstocks, too) because it is unique and stands out when on stage to those in-the-know about G&L instruments. I've started conversations with players and had conversations started with me based on appreciation of the brand because the headstock was noticed. Of course, YMMV
I've never done it, but I had an L2000 fretless neck that had the little hook sanded off. It didn't look good at all, and it wasn't because it was poorly done. The whole shape of the headstock is different from the CLF style, so cutting it off doesn't get you there.
I personally love the little hook and don't understand why anyone would feel so strongly as to remove it. It's unique to G&L.
Ah, the hook headstock.
Agree that it is unique, and there are as many people who hate it as love it.
I don't mind it so much any more, it's grown on me.
Agree that it is unique, and there are as many people who hate it as love it.
I don't mind it so much any more, it's grown on me.
Funny you say this: when I was 50, i had never heard of G&L, never, although I started playing the bass at 16.
I went to a concert (EZ3kiel), the bassist blew me away, his sound was just amazing, and he was playing a bass guitar I had never seen before, with that strange little hook...
Back home, I searched Google image for that guitar headstock until I found it. Then I learned about G&L Guitars, liked what I read, and ultimately bought my L-2000 tribute, now my #1 axe.
So I love the hook because it made me discover G&L to begin with.
Yes indeed. I don't know when the 12" radius became standard on most G&Ls, but all my G&L basses from 2006-2014 came with 12" radius fretboards. Those included an L-1500, SB-2, JB, and M-2500. Now, I believe only the L-2500 and M-2500 come standard with 12" radius, but the CLF Research L-2500 has 9.5" like the other basses.
The change to standard 9.5" radius for most basses and guitars came in mid-2015. My Comanche order went in before the change was supposed to take effect, but I still ended up with 9.5" when I wanted 12", which is one reason I recently ordered a Legacy HSS with a 12" radius.
Yes, good point. I was thinking about the USA line, and totally forgot about the Tributes. Some of those have kept the 12", including the SB-2 and some of the guitars.
Sorry, I should have bothered to look further
Yes Kiloton, SB-2, JB-2 and L-2000 Tributes all 12"
Yeah. After this brief discussion and a little more web searching I agree. Wouldn't get to what I hoped for. Gonna have to get a CLF.
I never liked the hook/wave. It is certainly unique but that don't make me love it.
The modified tele headstock with the curlicue is one of my favorite things about the look.
The other is rear routed "plateless" controls, the pickguard delete design of several GL models.
The other is rear routed "plateless" controls, the pickguard delete design of several GL models.
This was my 1989 L5000 with the Sickle Head. I like the Eye Gouger as well 
It has never crossed my mind to sand off the pointy bits
So this is on reverb: G&L ASAT Bass - Playing Project - USA Made 1995 Blueburst | Kebo's Bass Works | Reverb
(I have nothing to do with the listing.)
From the description:
"Heres the bad - SOME MORON over tightened the rod and came up thru the neck at the first fret. Thankfully the board didnt hump, its flat, the split is small and its unobtrusive. The same MORON stripped the truss rod adjustment nut. Can it be fixed? Im not sure. Is the rod cranked, again - Im not sure - The truss rod nut needs to come off and replaced to make that call."
A real head scratcher here.
(I have nothing to do with the listing.)
From the description:
"Heres the bad - SOME MORON over tightened the rod and came up thru the neck at the first fret. Thankfully the board didnt hump, its flat, the split is small and its unobtrusive. The same MORON stripped the truss rod adjustment nut. Can it be fixed? Im not sure. Is the rod cranked, again - Im not sure - The truss rod nut needs to come off and replaced to make that call."
A real head scratcher here.
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By "stripped the truss rod nut," I'm assuming you mean the nut is rounded out where the hex wrench inserts, so it won't grip anymore. StewMac makes a wrench to get that nut off. (See link below) You can check on bassesbyleo.com/forum to see what size you'd need, but I'm assuming the 1/8" on a bass that old. That being said, any fix for that neck is going to be temporary. I say that because I had the same problem with an '07 Fullerton SB-2 I bought. There's a good chance the truss rod has bottomed out. You can put a washer or two under the truss rod nut, and that might work, but the reason the truss rod has been tightened so much is the wood has warped badly, and that problem still exists. It might have even ski-jumped, which is not fixable by tightening the truss rod. The crack in the neck is only going to grow over time. The ultimate solution is a new neck. G&L will do that for you, creating a custom neck to your specs. You pay for the neck plus shipping to them. They replace the neck, do a setup, and send it back. Unless things have changed in the last couple years, G&L will not send you a new neck, and I had no luck in finding an aftermarket neck for my SB-2. The flip side is that my new neck is incredibly good, and with the dual action truss rod, it's as solid as a rock. And the setup is still great.
Gripper Truss Rod Wrenches - StewMac
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