G&L Club Part 7

[lowfreqgeek]

I've never tried the DR Dragon Skins, but I've had a few different sets of coated DRs and they sounded Ok, if not a bit dull, when new and seemed to completely die a very thorough death all of a sudden. Like they have a self-destruct timer built in where they sound ok and then BAM, all of them are completely dead at once, mid-song. That's my experience, anyway. I liked the newer Elixers pretty well, but it's been quite a few years since I've used them. I used the original Elixers a few times and they also sounded a bit dull and lifeless in the early days. I think they got better eventually.

 

[lowfreqgeek]

The pickups on the L2000 are so powerful that if you set them too high the sound will be distorted. Similarly if you set them too low you will lose (some) of the bottom end and you can hear this noticeably through decent headphones/IEM's.

Keep in mind that the distortion you hear through the GTB1 is a function of the input sensitivity of that device, so the front end of your amp will respond differently if the sensitivity is different. It's all about the headroom in the specific device you've plugged in to.

 

[jglunt]

I prefer Elixirs to the coated DR strings, even though I love the uncoated DR strings.

Right now I have Rotosound Nexus coated strings on one of my SB-2s and I like them a lot. And the black happens to look pretty bad-@$$ on that particular bass.

Tell me more about the Nexus strings. Are they actual coated roundwound strings, or are they like tapewounds? The black color is deceiving, and I personally don't care for tapewounds, though I realize some players do. They just don't have enough attack to satisfy me. Rotosound calls the Nexus strings "52 Alloy," or some such. Would you say they sound more nickel wound or stainless steel wound?

 

[jglunt]

I've never tried the DR Dragon Skins, but I've had a few different sets of coated DRs and they sounded Ok, if not a bit dull, when new and seemed to completely die a very thorough death all of a sudden. Like they have a self-destruct timer built in where they sound ok and then BAM, all of them are completely dead at once, mid-song. That's my experience, anyway. I liked the newer Elixers pretty well, but it's been quite a few years since I've used them. I used the original Elixers a few times and they also sounded a bit dull and lifeless in the early days. I think they got better eventually.

Yes, the old coating that Elixir used did dull their strings, but since they came out with the Nanoweb coating, I've really preferred them to almost all other strings. Oddly, they seem to be having more of a supply chain issue than other string manufacturers. Their nickel wounds aren't real hard to find, but their stainless wounds are nearly impossible to find. Elixir sells directly to the public from their website, and they didn't even have stainless wounds there the last I checked. Thanks for the info on the coated DRs.

 

[mmbass21]

I'm a fan of coated strings and played nothing but Elixirs for years, but lately Elixirs are becoming hard to find, so I've been experimenting. Does anybody know anything about DR Dragon Skins? Until just a few days ago, I didn't know they existed. It seems nobody talks about them, but there's not much talk about Elixirs either.

Galli procoated strings are a fantastic alternative to elixirs. Only a few places in the US sell them like strings and beyond. They'll also order whatever you want at no extra cost if you're good to wait a few weeks for them. Gallis have a good feel just like elixirs and sound very similar.

Edit: if you ever watch Andy Irvine videos he's a Galli endorser and puts them on all his basses. I only discovered Galli because they would do a custom length 5 string set for my 32" scale Maruszczyk since there's virtually no 5 string sets that fit this bass out there.

 

[jglunt]

Galli procoated strings are a fantastic alternative to elixirs. Only a few places in the US sell them like strings and beyond. They'll also order whatever you want at no extra cost if you're good to wait a few weeks for them. Gallis have a good feel just like elixirs and sound very similar.

I've never herd of them, but I do some business with Strings and Beyond, so I'll check them out. Thanks!

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

Tell me more about the Nexus strings. Are they actual coated roundwound strings, or are they like tapewounds? The black color is deceiving, and I personally don't care for tapewounds, though I realize some players do. They just don't have enough attack to satisfy me. Rotosound calls the Nexus strings "52 Alloy," or some such. Would you say they sound more nickel wound or stainless steel wound?

Yes, coated roundwounds. Not like tapewounds. They're maybe not quite as smooth to the touch as Elixirs, but they're much smoother than DR's coating, and have less string zing.

It's hard to describe the character of the tone, especially since I haven't played that particular bass in a month. But I would say they're closer to broken-in stainless steel strings than new nickel strings. Less attack than the SS Elixirs but brighter than the nickel Elixirs. It's a nice middle ground that is present but not harsh. I have all three of those strings on different basses right now, and all seem to be a good match for the particular bass they're on. (The Elixirs are on Warwicks, and the Rotos are on my modified SB-2.)

 

[Baker69]

Keep in mind that the distortion you hear through the GTB1 is a function of the input sensitivity of that device, so the front end of your amp will respond differently if the sensitivity is different. It's all about the headroom in the specific device you've plugged in to.

Yes, with how powerful the pickups are I sometimes have to switch off the preamp on the GT1B. Will need to try it through the amp even if it has to be through headphones.

More than 30 seconds worth of playing through my amp in the house and the neighbour is banging on my wall!

 

[jglunt]

Yes, with how powerful the pickups are I sometimes have to switch off the preamp on the GT1B. Will need to try it through the amp even if it has to be through headphones.

More than 30 seconds worth of playing through my amp in the house and the neighbour is banging on my wall!

Playing it through your amp, even with headphones, is probably a good idea. And don't get overwhelmed by the talk of how powerful the MFD pickup is. Yes, it's a strong pickup that is wonderful-sounding--my favorite bass pickup of all time--but I find that almost never does it overwhelm preamps and amps. After all, if it did that, nobody would want a G&L, would they? I put an MFD split coil in my LB-100 as a test. (I borrowed it from my SB-2.) I had already put a Seymour Duncan (no affiliation) active EQ into this bass, and I thought for sure the MFD would overpower it. It didn't. In fact, my MFD equipped basses are not the strongest I have. I have an Epiphone Jack Casady bass that was refurbed before I got it by (an unnamed company) which specializes in refurbs. It does not have the original pickup in it. It instead uses an "NY" humbucker, and the bass screams. Surprisingly, it has much more gain than my MFD-equipped G&Ls, yet it doesn't overwhelm my preamp. So are MFDs strong--yes--but they're designed to work with your equipment. They work very well with mine.

 

[woodyng2]

I don't particularly find the MFD in my kiloton any hotter than the alnico humbucker in my L1k.
Both are really good,strong pickups. I've only ever had overloading problems with active pickups,
and I've either sold or rewired those instruments to passive.

 

[Baker69]

I keep my MFDs a little lower than the G&L specs call for....

Are you able to let me know the exact measurements that you settled on please?

 

[jglunt]

Are you able to let me know the exact measurements that you settled on please?

I'm not much on measurements--more on sound. And I no longer have either of my L-series basses, but I measured the MFDs on my SB-2--a "P-J" setup. A little over a year ago, I had G&L build a new neck for this bass, and they did a complete setup at that time. That should have included pickup height adjustments, which I've never messed with since getting it back. They're closer than I would probably put them, but they sound good there. All measurements are taken with the strings depressed at fret 21. Split-coil MFD (neck): 3/32" away from E string; 1/16" away from G string. Single coil MFD (bridge): 1/16" away from both E and G strings. These are approximations, as I just measured them with a ruler and my eyeball. But they're pretty close.

Something to ponder: On my SB-2, each string is passing over just a single magnet in each pickup, whereas on your L2000, each string is passing over two magnets in each pickup. My guess--capital "G" on guess--is that there would therefore be more magnetic pull on the strings for each pickup on an L-series bass, and therefore they could be backed off a little more. There are certainly more learned men and women in this club who might be able to correct me if I'm wrong there. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

If I were you, I think I'd take the G&L specs and adjust the pickups about 1/8" farther away than they call for. If they don't sound right there, move them a little closer. Keep that up until you get a sound you're satisfied with.

BTW, have you had a chance to play it through your amp yet?

 

[Lowendchamp]

Does anybody know if a Mighty Mite P bass replacement neck will fit my tribute Kiloton? I wanted to get the fretless ebanol neck but I'm not sure it will fit.

 

[TDR1138]

Does anybody know if a Mighty Mite P bass replacement neck will fit my tribute Kiloton? I wanted to get the fretless ebanol neck but I'm not sure it will fit.

It will not. Different heel width, different number of "frets."

 

[Lowendchamp]

Thanks

 

[jglunt]

Does anybody know if a Mighty Mite P bass replacement neck will fit my tribute Kiloton? I wanted to get the fretless ebanol neck but I'm not sure it will fit.

As I remember, that's a 4-bolt 21 fret neck. I think both the Tribute Kiloton and the Tribute SB-2 use those. You might inquire from G&L. They're actually marketing a Tribute fretless Kiloton these days, so they might have one you could buy, or if not, at least a fretted one.

 

[Baker69]

I'm not much on measurements--more on sound. And I no longer have either of my L-series basses, but I measured the MFDs on my SB-2--a "P-J" setup. A little over a year ago, I had G&L build a new neck for this bass, and they did a complete setup at that time. That should have included pickup height adjustments, which I've never messed with since getting it back. They're closer than I would probably put them, but they sound good there. All measurements are taken with the strings depressed at fret 21. Split-coil MFD (neck): 3/32" away from E string; 1/16" away from G string. Single coil MFD (bridge): 1/16" away from both E and G strings. These are approximations, as I just measured them with a ruler and my eyeball. But they're pretty close.

Something to ponder: On my SB-2, each string is passing over just a single magnet in each pickup, whereas on your L2000, each string is passing over two magnets in each pickup. My guess--capital "G" on guess--is that there would therefore be more magnetic pull on the strings for each pickup on an L-series bass, and therefore they could be backed off a little more. There are certainly more learned men and women in this club who might be able to correct me if I'm wrong there. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

If I were you, I think I'd take the G&L specs and adjust the pickups about 1/8" farther away than they call for. If they don't sound right there, move them a little closer. Keep that up until you get a sound you're satisfied with.

BTW, have you had a chance to play it through your amp yet?

Thank you for your reply and information. I've just been reading the G&L manual again and have noted the settings to which I have added 1/8" as you suggested, so I will have a go with that later. I did adjust the pickups to lower than factory settings the other day, so I may not be that far off anyway.

Yes I did try it through my amp, it didn't sound very good to be honest, but there again my amp never does seem to sound very good in the house. But then I tried my P Bass through the amp as a comparison and that sounded crap as well!

I had much better results through the headphone socket on the amp, and have managed to arrive at some fairly usable settings. I am still finding that I prefer all pickup combinations in Passive mode and with them all in Series. I was able to play with the bass tone control fully on but found it was better with it reduced slightly. I'm still not happy with the treble control, everything really is all in the last 1/4" of the pot's travel, it takes minuscule movements between it being mellow and the treble cutting in. I think I will seriously have to consider changing this.

It was interesting playing the Tribby with the pickups in the neck position and comparing it with my P Bass. Both sounded good, but if you were blindfolded you can tell which one is the P Bass, but they are different types of pickups so I didn't really expect them to sound very close, I think the neck pickups on most basses have a P Bass sound purely down to their position in the body. To sum up, I think it has a very nice P Bass like tone, not a P Bass but nicely different.

I think it is the same with the other pickup combinations, using both pickups together it does not sound like a Jazz Bass and in my opinion is far off it. The bridge pickup you could argue that it has a slight hint of a Stingray tone, I much prefer it to my Jazz Bass bridge pickup soloed.

I feel what would have been better on these basses was a pickup blend control rather than the 3 position pickup selection switch, has anyone carried out this mod (if it is possible)? I imagine it would be a replacement of the volume control with a stacked pot.

 

[MrB64]

Thank you for your reply and information. I've just been reading the G&L manual again and have noted the settings to which I have added 1/8" as you suggested, so I will have a go with that later. I did adjust the pickups to lower than factory settings the other day, so I may not be that far off anyway.

Yes I did try it through my amp, it didn't sound very good to be honest, but there again my amp never does seem to sound very good in the house. But then I tried my P Bass through the amp as a comparison and that sounded crap as well!

I had much better results through the headphone socket on the amp, and have managed to arrive at some fairly usable settings. I am still finding that I prefer all pickup combinations in Passive mode and with them all in Series. I was able to play with the bass tone control fully on but found it was better with it reduced slightly. I'm still not happy with the treble control, everything really is all in the last 1/4" of the pot's travel, it takes minuscule movements between it being mellow and the treble cutting in. I think I will seriously have to consider changing this.

It was interesting playing the Tribby with the pickups in the neck position and comparing it with my P Bass. Both sounded good, but if you were blindfolded you can tell which one is the P Bass, but they are different types of pickups so I didn't really expect them to sound very close, I think the neck pickups on most basses have a P Bass sound purely down to their position in the body. To sum up, I think it has a very nice P Bass like tone, not a P Bass but nicely different.

I think it is the same with the other pickup combinations, using both pickups together it does not sound like a Jazz Bass and in my opinion is far off it. The bridge pickup you could argue that it has a slight hint of a Stingray tone, I much prefer it to my Jazz Bass bridge pickup soloed.

I feel what would have been better on these basses was a pickup blend control rather than the 3 position pickup selection switch, has anyone carried out this mod (if it is possible)? I imagine it would be a replacement of the volume control with a stacked pot.

Did you check out the M series basses? They have a pickup panning knob that would give you more or less of either pickup.

 

[One Way]

photo of my M2500 Tribute for reference

 

[jglunt]

I feel what would have been better on these basses was a pickup blend control rather than the 3 position pickup selection switch, has anyone carried out this mod (if it is possible)? I imagine it would be a replacement of the volume control with a stacked pot.

I have always wished the L-series basses had a blend control. The M-series does, but be aware, though the pickups on the M-series are MFD pickups, they are not the same MFD pickups. They are slightly underwound because in the original design, they overdrove the front end of that preamp. (At least that's what I understood.) If you want a jazz bass sounding bass, the M-series sounds more jazz-like to my ear, and it is versatile with the blend control and a 3-band active EQ. But I'm about 90% certain you won't find it in a lefty version. I bought an M-series after I had bought an L2500, thinking that the M-2000 would be a better version of the L. It is not...it is a completely different bass--good, but different.

As far as the tone controls on the L-2000, remember that, in spite of the preamp, they are both passive controls. The treble control is just like the single tone control on any passive bass you've ever owned--it rolls off the highs. The bass control rolls off the lows. That "suddenness" you detect on the treble control is not unusual for a 250kA pot. You could try another one, but I'd bet it would react much the same. I'm not sure how that bass would work if you switched to a linear taper instead of the audio taper. Especially since you play lefty, that might be something to consider, and 250k linears are readily available.