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G&L Club Part 7

Did you check out the M series basses? They have a pickup panning knob that would give you more or less of either pickup.

As jglunt said, these are almost certainly not available as a lefty model. They look very nice basses though!

On all of my twin pickup basses I tend to slightly favour the neck pickup rather than having them being of equal volume, this isn't possible with the 3 position pickup switch on the L2000. As I said, it must be possible to change the volume control to a stacked pot combining the volume and a pickup pan/blend. This would leave the toggle switch redundant though, but this could possibly be wired up as an on/off switch or something?

I have adjusted the pickups again in accordance with G & L's recommended heights plus 1/8, the neck pickup does look a bit low now, but everything sounds ok and I've just spent a couple of hours playing at this new setting. I'll leave it at that for now until I play it live, I'll take a screwdriver with me in case I need to make any further adjustments as it's bound to need a bit of tweaking.

I might change the treble control to a linear pot in the near future. It doesn't matter to me being a lefty which way the control works, all my basses seem to work differently in the way the controls work anyway.
 
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On all of my twin pickup basses I tend to slightly favour the neck pickup rather than having them being of equal volume, this isn't possible with the 3 position pickup switch on the L2000
There's a sort of "workaround" for that.
Skewing the pickup heights in favor of the neck pickup, while leaving the bridge pickup lower helps you get that tone.

Between pickup heights, adjusting the pole pieces, removing pole pieces, I've been able to pull out some unconventional tones from a typical Tookay.
 
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Had a gig last night and I brought my modified mahogany '81 L2Ke. When I got this in '06 it had an '84 neck on it, otherwise original. I always wanted one to join my ASAT and the price was right. After a some years the neck developed a twist and rather than scramble to find another G&L, in '17 I went with a Moses, and I got a good one. They were the only ones to offer G&L necks for both early and current models.
Then the pre fried, so I replaced it with the current harness offered by G&L.
Currently wearing GHS Precision Flats.

This bass just sounds outstanding. Tight, solid focused notes, and rich defined tone. Very little EQ applied. I love it when a plan finally comes together.
I am very pleased.
P.S. 12.6 lbs of bass goodness

L2K-MosesNk-FULL.jpg
 
Well, I've stumbled into a project. I was checking the G&L Store for L2500 bodies, which are very rare. Came across this Tribute, so I bought it and all the other bits I need to put together an L2500 with the 1/4-sawn USA L2500 neck I've had sitting in a box for the last 3-4yrs. I've built a number of parts basses, including 2 Warmoths I still have from the 1999/2001 time frame, so I'm well acquainted with the process of putting together "parts" basses.

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I *almost* went for M2500 pickups and an aftermarket preamp, but ultimately decided to keep it an L-series. I'll probably do the K-mod, though I might still try a non-G&L preamp just to see. I have options.

It'll be a while before I can get it all together, but I'll post it eventually.
 
Well, I've stumbled into a project. I was checking the G&L Store for L2500 bodies, which are very rare. Came across this Tribute, so I bought it and all the other bits I need to put together an L2500 with the 1/4-sawn USA L2500 neck I've had sitting in a box for the last 3-4yrs. I've built a number of parts basses, including 2 Warmoths I still have from the 1999/2001 time frame, so I'm well acquainted with the process of putting together "parts" basses.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I *almost* went for M2500 pickups and an aftermarket preamp, but ultimately decided to keep it an L-series. I'll probably do the K-mod, though I might still try a non-G&L preamp just to see. I have options.

It'll be a while before I can get it all together, but I'll post it eventually.
Will the USA neck fit the Tribute body? And here's something to consider: The M pickups are noticeably less aggressive than the L series pickups. I've owned a couple Ls and an M. The M sounded more like a jazz bass to me in spite of it's 3-band active EQ and blend control. That wasn't what I was looking for, so I ended up selling it pretty quickly. Have fun! I love that red-burst.
 
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Will the USA neck fit the Tribute body? And here's something to consider: The M pickups are noticeably less aggressive than the L series pickups. I've owned a couple Ls and an M. The M sounded more like a jazz bass to me in spite of it's 3-band active EQ and blend control. That wasn't what I was looking for, so I ended up selling it pretty quickly. Have fun! I love that red-burst.

Thanks! I was glad to see the Redburst as another Sunburst might've been passed over. The neck should fit pretty closely, and I'll modify the neck pocket if needed, or plug and redrill the screw holes in the neck if needed. I can make it work, and for $65 in that body, it doesn't have to be perfect, just straight and solid.

The M pickups are definitely a more refined sound, and while my ideal tone is an aggressive, growly, throaty, resonant Jazz Bass (which I already have and love), I felt like the M pickups I've heard didn't have the character I'm going for. I did consider pairing them with a blend knob and stacked Bartolini 2band I have, but I also have another "modern" dual humbucker 5-string that gets me into that refined territory. It doesn't get used as much as my basses with more "personality", but I won't let it go (the neck on that bass goes back 20+ years, it's just not my ideal everyday tone, but it's fantastic in the studio when I need a modern 5-string).

I have my eye on another rare and hard to find 5-string, so I figured since I had the USA neck and buying all the parts still cost less than a new Tribute by a lot, I couldn't lose to have another fretted L2500 in the stable and still keep funds available for that rare 5-string I'm after. And I'll build this one with my son, so he'll probably end up playing it quite a bit. He already has my '87 SB1, '99 Warmoth jazz, and a Regenerate Guitar Works fretless Jazz in his room... Dang kid!
 
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As jglunt said, these are almost certainly not available as a lefty model. They look very nice basses though!

On all of my twin pickup basses I tend to slightly favour the neck pickup rather than having them being of equal volume, this isn't possible with the 3 position pickup switch on the L2000. As I said, it must be possible to change the volume control to a stacked pot combining the volume and a pickup pan/blend. This would leave the toggle switch redundant though, but this could possibly be wired up as an on/off switch or something?

I have adjusted the pickups again in accordance with G & L's recommended heights plus 1/8, the neck pickup does look a bit low now, but everything sounds ok and I've just spent a couple of hours playing at this new setting. I'll leave it at that for now until I play it live, I'll take a screwdriver with me in case I need to make any further adjustments as it's bound to need a bit of tweaking.

I might change the treble control to a linear pot in the near future. It doesn't matter to me being a lefty which way the control works, all my basses seem to work differently in the way the controls work anyway.
I too always thought about swapping the selector switch for a blend control on my L2500. Am I just just naive in thinking you could just use the hole left from removing the switch to mount a blend pot? I haven't one in front of me and haven't thought about it in a while. But I'm no fan of pickup selector switches nor a fan of stacked knobs, either.
 
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I too always thought about swapping the selector switch for a blend control on my L2500. Am I just just naive in thinking you could just use the hole left from removing the switch to mount a blend pot? I haven't one in front of me and haven't thought about it in a while. But I'm no fan of pickup selector switches period. Oh, and I'm not a fan of stacked knobs, either.

Putting a blend in place the selector wouldn't be ideal. The location is on top of the volume pot, and very close. You could use mini pots for blend and volume and they might not interfere internally, but the knobs would almost touch. Also, the hole for the switch is much smaller and would have to be reamed out to fit a pot, so it wouldn't be a reversible mod.

I've considered doing a Fender Roscoe Beck style switch that pads the neck pickup a little bit, but leaves the bridge pickup fully engaged when the 2 are blended together. It's the equivalent of turning the blend knob to favor the bridge pickup, but retaining some neck pickup in the path. If I remember (it's been years since I had an RBIV), you pull the volume pot to engage the pad.
 
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Putting a blend in place the selector wouldn't be ideal. The location is on top of the volume pot, and very close. You could use mini pots for blend and volume and they might not interfere internally, but the knobs would almost touch. Also, the hole for the switch is much smaller and would have to be reamed out to fit a pot, so it wouldn't be a reversible mod.

I've considered doing a Fender Roscoe Beck style switch that pads the neck pickup a little bit, but leaves the bridge pickup fully engaged when the 2 are blended together. It's the equivalent of turning the blend knob to favor the bridge pickup, but retaining some neck pickup in the path. If I remember (it's been years since I had an RBIV), you pull the volume pot to engage the pad.
That good info makes a stacked volume / blend pot sound like a better idea, assuming such a beast is available. If reversibility is a concern, then a temporarily defunct switch is probably not an issue.
 
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Well, I've stumbled into a project. I was checking the G&L Store for L2500 bodies, which are very rare. Came across this Tribute, so I bought it and all the other bits I need to put together an L2500 with the 1/4-sawn USA L2500 neck I've had sitting in a box for the last 3-4yrs. I've built a number of parts basses, including 2 Warmoths I still have from the 1999/2001 time frame, so I'm well acquainted with the process of putting together "parts" basses.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I *almost* went for M2500 pickups and an aftermarket preamp, but ultimately decided to keep it an L-series. I'll probably do the K-mod, though I might still try a non-G&L preamp just to see. I have options.

It'll be a while before I can get it all together, but I'll post it eventually.
That's a really pretty finish! :woot:
 
I had the opportunity at short notice to play my L2K Tribute (in church) this morning, I was quite pleased with the sounds I got out of it, even though it was through a not very good combo.

I used the neck pickup the most, and both pickups for one song (both options in series and passive mode), but I played one song using just the bridge pickup in series & active and it was really good!

I was able to have the bass tone fully up for most of the time but I found it necessary to have the volume on no more than 90%, it seemed to distort slightly over that level.

I enjoyed playing it, still getting used to the neck width but it wasn't too bad. The first fret is the worst as the back of the neck has a sort of heel on the headstock which encroaches onto the back where the first fret is. I've only ever comes across this on a Ric 4003?
 
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Sensitivity can be a good thing, helps articulation. I didn't comment on the 'crater' because it is hard to judge how it feels. To me the neck is the most important part of the instrument - that is what I look at first when checking out a bass.
An over all good bass may ease my fussiness when it comes to selecting for a purchase, but your standards/preferences may differ.
You were so right about articulation when playing this bass. I also find it's SUPER bright unless the treble is tamed a bit. Which is a good thing if you find the sweet spot
 
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I posted last month about a Tribute L2000 that I got "new" although it was more "demo'". Short story I got $100 off and some strings and kept it.... Anyway this weekend I increased the action and gave the neck a bit of relief. Previously the string would be sat right on the frets when I fretted at the 1st and fret where the neck meets the body. I must say the truss rod doesn't seem to have much effect until the next day for whatever reason. In other words adjusting it didn't appear to do anything but next day it had moved the neck. Odd (compared to my other basses that moved instantly). I also decided to adjust my PUP height, setting it to about 4mm neck, 3.8mm bridge (bass side) and 2 ish mm on the treble side (both). Measuring the from the underside of the string to the top of the pole (pointless data but there you are anway)

To my question: I was trying to get a balance in bridge / neck PUP volume. I couldn't really get it. The neck is really loud / full, which is awesome for bass of course. The bridge volume isn't bad but I noticed it has a hum. As soon as I solo'd the neck the hum went away. Is this normal?
 
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I posted last month about a Tribute L2000 that I got "new" although it was more "demo'". Short story I got $100 off and some strings and kept it.... Anyway this weekend I increased the action and gave the neck a bit of relief. Previously the string would be sat right on the frets when I fretted at the 1st and fret where the neck meets the body. I must say the truss rod doesn't seem to have much effect until the next day for whatever reason. In other words adjusting it didn't appear to do anything but next day it had moved the neck. Odd (compared to my other basses that moved instantly). I also decided to adjust my PUP height, setting it to about 4mm neck, 3.8mm bridge (bass side) and 2 ish mm on the treble side (both). Measuring the from the underside of the string to the top of the pole (pointless data but there you are anway)

To my question: I was trying to get a balance in bridge / neck PUP volume. I couldn't really get it. The neck is really loud / full, which is awesome for bass of course. The bridge volume isn't bad but I noticed it has a hum. As soon as I solo'd the neck the hum went away. Is this normal?
I'm not an authority on basses, just an old fart with years of experience who tries to be helpful. I'll try to make some recommendations based on what works for me. You may feel free to disregard them. The newer Tribute truss rods are dual action. I don't know when G&L switched to this. but I would think the dual action truss rods would affect neck relief immediately, and while there might be some slight changes the next day while it "settles in" with string pressure on it, you should see some help more quickly than that. Of course, not all "new" Tributes seem to have recent necks. In a post above, we saw an example of a player who bought a new Tribute with a neck whose serial number indicated it was from 2010. There's nothing wrong with that as long as it's not a used neck being represented as new, but you might have a neck with a single action truss rod. Nothing wrong with that, either. Instruments used them for years. Adjust either one in small increments--may 1/8th turn--and be patient.

A volume difference between neck and bridge pickups is normal as there is simply more energy in the string vibrations where they pass over the bridge pickup than over the neck pickup. This is more critical in basses like the L-series basses that do not have separate volume controls or a blend control. I try to get my levels as close as possible by adjusting pickup height. I've only been semi-successful that way, but that's acceptable to me. And I'm careful not to sacrifice the tone of the neck pickup by adjusting it too far down. Better to deal with some volume imbalance than to negatively affect the tone, IMO.

These are humbucking pickups. There should be no hum. I no longer own my Tribute L-series basses, but I never remember any hum in them. Try plugging it in to a different amp. Also, try doing it in a different room or in a different building entirely if possible. If the hum is still there, I recommend having a reliable luthier check it out or doing it yourself if you feel qualified. Also, consider shielding at least the control cavity with copper tape. Though most Tributes are shielded using shielding paint, the tape is better and easy to use.
https://www.amazon.com/Kirecoo-Conductive-Shielding-Electrical-Grounding/dp/B09Z6F9RFG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1RUQ57GHZ4ZM5&keywords=copper+shielding+tape&qid=1655745942&sprefix=copper+shielding+tape,aps,122&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRVk1IQzhRWDhWWjYmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1NjA5Njc4RUFRWEczNDE0WlAmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDE2MDg3MjFZOFA2WEVZUlRCWDMmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
 
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