G&L Club Part 7

[Jim C]

Many tributes have had the knobs installed with extreme force and often times the pot came apart while removing the knobs. I had one fall apart while unsoldering.
Didn't mean to suggest the Tributes were bad for the money as my SB2 plays very well.
Considering the price point they are certainly on par with offshore Lakland, Stingrays, and Mexican Fenders.

 

[ahbass2500]

Many tributes have had the knobs installed with extreme force and often times the pot came apart while removing the knobs. I had one fall apart while unsoldering.
Didn't mean to suggest the Tributes were bad for the money as my SB2 plays very well.
Considering the price point they are certainly on par with offshore Lakland, Stingrays, and Mexican Fenders.

I had this issue (knobs pulling shaft of pot out instead of coming off the shaft) with a Tribute ASAT Special. Did not have it on my Tribute Fallout bass.

The Tribute pots work, but from having worked on them they are definitely a cheaper part than what is used in US models.

 

[Lammchop93]

My Kiloton 5 in action doing a cover song "virtually" with a bunch of other musicians:



Here is the original if anyone is curious

 

[dave64o]

Nice job by all on the cover - and your Kiloton sounded fantastic.

 

[metron]

My Kiloton 5 in action doing a cover song "virtually" with a bunch of other musicians:



Here is the original if anyone is curious

Awesome!

 

[ADHD librarian]

Just curious how do tributes compare to their mia counterparts? I love my tribute kiloton but I'm getting the inch for a L2000. I'm thinking about saving up for the USA version but I have been so impressed with the tributes I'm not sure it can get much better.

I've got a kiloton Tribute and a MIA SB-2...
I like the MIA better, but I think most of the difference is that I live in the desert & the SB-2 has a quartersawn neck; so it is stable with the large fluctuations in temperature and humidity that my basses suffer through.

 

[jglunt]

I've got a kiloton Tribute and a MIA SB-2...
I like the MIA better, but I think most of the difference is that I live in the desert & the SB-2 has a quartersawn neck; so it is stable with the large fluctuations in temperature and humidity that my basses suffer through.

Both the modern Tributes and MIAs have dual action truss rods, which it seems to me add stability, but the MIAs also have the graphite rod running down the neck, which adds a lot of stability. I also live in the desert, so I know what you mean. The one bass I really had a lot of neck trouble with was a 2003 Korean Tribute L2000. It had a single action truss rod, and I was always having to tweak the truss rod. I have to say, though, that I've had no problems with my newer Tribs or MIAs.

 

[dedpool1052]

On the L-1000/L1005/L-2000/L-2500
Basses, there's a loading capacitor, that lowers the resonant frequency of the pickup.


It's absent on the L-1500/L1505/Kiloton basses.

I removed the capacitor on my Tribute Tookay,
And I heard very little difference.

It's a recommended mod on the 1500/Kilo basses to "add" low-end.

Based on what I've heard, I don't think it's worth it.

Such a minimal change, you're better off using your amp's EQ.

 

[Glazenn]

My Kiloton 5 in action doing a cover song "virtually" with a bunch of other musicians:

Here is the original if anyone is curious

The Kiloton 5 is a dream of a bass...

 

[AlexKidd]

Hi guys,

American made SB-2 owner here (you can see it in my profile pic). I bought it second hand and the previous owner had replaced the p pickup with a dimarzio and long since lost or got rid of the original.

It really didn't play well with the bridge and kept sounding out of phase anytime I tried to introduce the bridge volume. I live in China so it was near impossible to find the original neck pickup but finally, the G&L store started shipping to China again so I got hold of one.

Took it to my guy here, wired it all up according to a diagram I had come across here before and...... I have to say I am disappointed. Maybe we are doing something wrong but the tech I go to here is legit and we followed the wiring diagrams but still, it's as if nothing changes tonally at all until either volume pot is at around 90% or 10%. Basically at the extreme ends of each volume pot, there are changes to the tone but everything in between does nothing and I can't figure it out.

I am on the verge of selling and maybe picking up a Yamaha bbp34 or something similar. Maybe that is just how the G&L is supposed to work and I was thinking the two volumes would provide much more range in terms of tone, I'm out of ideas.

If anyone can help or has any advice, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

 

[jglunt]

Hi guys,

American made SB-2 owner here (you can see it in my profile pic). I bought it second hand and the previous owner had replaced the p pickup with a dimarzio and long since lost or got rid of the original.

It really didn't play well with the bridge and kept sounding out of phase anytime I tried to introduce the bridge volume. I live in China so it was near impossible to find the original neck pickup but finally, the G&L store started shipping to China again so I got hold of one.

Took it to my guy here, wired it all up according to a diagram I had come across here before and...... I have to say I am disappointed. Maybe we are doing something wrong but the tech I go to here is legit and we followed the wiring diagrams but still, it's as if nothing changes tonally at all until either volume pot is at around 90% or 10%. Basically at the extreme ends of each volume pot, there are changes to the tone but everything in between does nothing and I can't figure it out.

I am on the verge of selling and maybe picking up a Yamaha bbp34 or something similar. Maybe that is just how the G&L is supposed to work and I was thinking the two volumes would provide much more range in terms of tone, I'm out of ideas.

If anyone can help or has any advice, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

My MIA SB-2 is much like that. I believe it's because of the 250k audio taper volume pots. Every A250k pot I've used, whether for volume or tone, did almost nothing from 0 to 8, then from 8 to 10 the change is fast & furious. I've been going to experiment with a couple 250k linear taper pots but never got around to it. But if your tech there is willing to experiment a little, you might give that a try.

 

[AlexKidd]

My MIA SB-2 is much like that. I believe it's because of the 250k audio taper volume pots. Every A250k pot I've used, whether for volume or tone, did almost nothing from 0 to 8, then from 8 to 10 the change is fast & furious. I've been going to experiment with a couple 250k linear taper pots but never got around to it. But if your tech there is willing to experiment a little, you might give that a try.

Wow, super interesting. Thanks for the response. I wonder why they wouldn't just use linear taper if that's the case.

Yes, seeing as we may have to dive in, we are considering doing a mod or two, but there are so many variations on a theme out there, it's hard to know what the best course of action is.

 

[jglunt]

Wow, super interesting. Thanks for the response. I wonder why they wouldn't just use linear taper if that's the case.

Yes, seeing as we may have to dive in, we are considering doing a mod or two, but there are so many variations on a theme out there, it's hard to know what the best course of action is.

Please understand that I haven't actually swapped out my audio tapers for linear tapers, so I don't know if that's a solution or not, but even good quality CTS pots are not expensive, so I think it's worth a try. If you don't like the change, you can always go back to the originals. I do own one bass that I hardly ever play--a Steinberger Spirit XT-25--that came from the factory with linear taper volume pots, but it seems Leo and most other bass designers/builders prefer audio taper.

 

[tony caskey]

Being that you already have experience with flats on other basses, you likely know how they differ from rounds, and have established what you like/don't like about flats in general.

What are your goals for this bass? Mellow it out... keep the feel of flats, yet retain the more aggressive tone...? That would guide me in the type of flats to use.

Personally, on a G&L like the Kiloton I'd go for something on the brighter end of the flats spectrum: Chromes, EB Cobalts flats... Dunlop has a brighter set I think...

My L2K has worn Chromes for the last year or so and I really enjoy them. When it's time for a change (most likely after an overdue refret) I'll be going with a set of Cobalt flats mainly for that extra zing.

Congrats on the new bass!

i love the dadario xl's that came on all my G&L's, especially the kiloton 5, and custom wonkay 5

 

[Hutch801]

Does G&L offer roasted maple necks other than their custom shop?

 

[User3734584]

Does G&L offer roasted maple necks other than their custom shop?

Negative.

 

[lildrgn]

I have a CLF L1K and have long liked the look of the vintage L1Ks with the black crinkle bridge and control plate. Similar to the El-Toro up thread a bit. (actually, copied here below)

Anyone holding for a L1k and/or know how to get them? I think it would look SWEET on my Pharoah Gold finish.

 

[Glazenn]

I have a CLF L1K and have long liked the look of the vintage L1Ks with the black crinkle bridge and control plate. Similar to the El-Toro up thread a bit. (actually, copied here below)
...
Anyone holding for a L1k and/or know how to get them? I think it would look SWEET on my Pharoah Gold finish.

I suggest you ask Ken Baker at the Basses by Leo forums. He would possibly know and/or guide you to some workshop or DIY procedure (rattle can) to crinkle your chrome hardware...

 

[Holdsg]

I have a CLF L1K and have long liked the look of the vintage L1Ks with the black crinkle bridge and control plate. Similar to the El-Toro up thread a bit. (actually, copied here below)

Anyone holding for a L1k and/or know how to get them? I think it would look SWEET on my Pharoah Gold finish.

as owner of said El Toro, I approve this message

 

[Jim C]

I suggest you ask Ken Baker at the Basses by Leo forums. He would possibly know and/or guide you to some workshop or DIY procedure (rattle can) to crinkle your chrome hardware...

The finish G&L used was VERY tough and did not come from a residential paint supplier.
That is an industrial finish that looks very similar to Sherwin Williams Polane T which is a 2-part epoxy that is very dangerous to shoot and should only be done so in a paint both with the painter wearing a suite and supply air.

I was shooting some mil-spec parts years ago and for fun used a bit of the finish on a Bic lighter.
We couldn't get it to wear off even with an ignition key scratching it.