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I ran my fretless L2500 passive with TI flats for many years, then I rediscovered rounds and the battery and now pretty much primarily run rounds/active/series.
The key to the treble boost is to make sure you use the treble tone knob to tame the harshness. It's a far more open, clear sound in series mode. It's actually not that different from many of the classic EQs like a Pultec, where you actively boost some frequencies, then passively roll off above or below it to change the overall shape of the EQ.
The key to the treble boost is to make sure you use the treble tone knob to tame the harshness. It's a far more open, clear sound in series mode. It's actually not that different from many of the classic EQs like a Pultec, where you actively boost some frequencies, then passively roll off above or below it to change the overall shape of the EQ.
I've yet to find any practical use for the treble boost though…
I used it a few times to get a guitar player in trouble back when I was in my high school pep band (long time ago now). Treble boost on, bass knob cut, play a chord high on the neck... guitar player did it.
^not sure how practical that is, but it is the best use case I have.
Yup, that's right. I've used the treble boost, with the neck pickup in series, bass up and some treble rolled off to do pseudo-country click bass (using a pick and palm muting). The treble boost adds just the right amount of bite to the picked notes for that purpose. I'll admit that's pretty arcane, but it's the only use I've found so far.
Is it fair to describe the L2000 or L2500 as expanded versions of the L1000? I'm not sure if the pickup locations are exactly the same.
I've got an L1000 five string and a Kiloton 5 and part of me wonders if I can consolidate gear by getting a L2500.
I've got an L1000 five string and a Kiloton 5 and part of me wonders if I can consolidate gear by getting a L2500.
L2500 does not quite hit Kilo 5. Kilo 5 pickup is slightly closer to the neck than the bridge pickup of the L2500. Not saying you could not replace them. Just pointing out not an exact replacement.
Been a long time since I have tried an L1000, but I think the L2500 would do L1000 better than it does Kilo 5.
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Is there a wiring diagram that shows the differences in both settings? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around exactly how that switch works.
Guitar Wiring: Series vs. Parallel Explained <- Diagram shows the difference. It is really just series v parallel wiring. In the case of the L2X00 instruments, you can think of the two single coil strat pickups pictured as though they are the two half of the MFD humbuckers.
Back on the G&L train! Was really looking for an L1505 but I fell in love with the prominent grain on the body of this one, and got it for a solid price. Rosewood board has a lot more grain/color than I expected too which is nice. Looks like an 08 Tribute.
Thanks for the word here. Great point about the Kiloton pickup being closer to the neck than in the L2500.
I'd love an L1000 + Kiloton with the L1000 controls, but perhaps the L2500 gets close enough.
The L2000 (or to a slightly lesser extent the L2500) will represent *most* of what the L1000 does. The neck pickup on the L2XXX is in the same location as with the L1000. You'd need to play the L2XXX in passive mode only and you could get the "parallel" sound of the L1000. The Wunkay has two other distinctive pickup modes though: (i) a single coil mode (which you could get with a k-mod circuit in the L2XXX if you did the k-mod for the proper single coil of the neck pickup); and (ii) the OMG mode which is basically "series" but with a capacitor that drains some high end from one of the coils. This a very fat sound (compared to the parallel and single coil modes) and for some people it's *the* sound of the Wunkay that they love most. It would take some serious rewiring to achieve that in an L2XXX instrument. Series on the neck pickup is already pretty fat, though.
What strings do you all like to use on your 5 strings? I've got a fresh set of the Dadarrios that came on the bass from the factory on. Noticed that the new B string was actually vibrating behind the fretted note causing fret buzz in lower frets than I was playing, which was very odd. Put the old string on (which was only about a week old) and it fixed it right up. So thinking it might be time to investigate other brands of strings. I've only ever had 3 bad strings out of the pack in the 20 years, and twice it's been Dadarrio in the past year, once with this .130 B string and once with a .28 D string on my Les Paul.
On bass, I've become real partial to GHS Pressurewounds, which are available in a 5-string set. I've never used them on a 5-string, but they sound great on a few of my 4-strings. Best price I've found on them is normally on stringsbymail.com. (No affiliation)
I have never used it. I engaged it a few times just to see what it sounded like. Nothing I needed. In fact, I rarely use active mode.The L-2000 active mode to me is most useful in those situations where you're just handed a cheap passive DI and told to "plug in" - no amp, pedals or anything, just straight to PA. (Happens in churches a lot.). Really livens up the signal, give you a nice clean powerful tone.
I've yet to find any practical use for the treble boost though…
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I used this BABE at rehearsal tonight. Feels as good as anything and sounds good. But I keep wondering about selling it. Am I crazy?
(Pic from Craig from when I bought it. His pics are better than mine.)
(Pic from Craig from when I bought it. His pics are better than mine.)
Yeah you're crazy
that is stunning.Thanks. I think.Yeah you're crazy
Thanks, it really is, but isn't my best looking G&L L2k which is a Redburst (front and back) with binding. I'm really thinking I have too many basses. (I know, another sign of insanity.) This doesn't get played as much and would likely be an easy sell (for lovers of G&Ls anyway).
