I like all the early blues although mine's closer to turquoise in person. These 1st gen SB's are the only reason I don't miss my '56 P as much.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
I like all the early blues although mine's closer to turquoise in person. These 1st gen SB's are the only reason I don't miss my '56 P as much.
No idea, it's really closer to a turquoise although all colors are subjective. With any mixed paint the hue is going to vary. I've had a bunch of Belair Green G&L's (both guitars and basses) and they ranged from blues to greens and in-betweens. None of them were the exact same color and it's a blessing/curse for those who can discern a gazillian shades. Doesn't matter if it's auto, house or any other paint. I put the Home Depot paint department through the holy hell they deliver and deserve. Out of three HD's I've found one guy who can pretty much nail it and actually gives a crap about getting it right. There's one guy locally with Sherwin Williams as well. Look at the Belair Green in my Avatar, there's 3-4 shades in the head, depending on your screen. I like them all. G&L HAS done a fair amount of great paint over the years.
Here's a pic of one I'd like to find, looks killer on an OLED laptop.
Last edited:
In this ad they called it blue. Makes sense. Interestingly black was a special order but they are by far the most common.
Back to the basics like the early days of Fender all over again. Three models of each and only three colors. Nice retro ad shot brother "merton".
Sweet ad find there! I had one of those 3 pickup SC guitars in black. Watching sales over time I agree that black, then white have shown to be the most common colors of early SB basses unless players are just keeping the snazzier colors.
I'm considering moving a few basses, mainly G&L's (as that's what I have the most of) since it's likely I'll not gig anymore due to age. While I love all of the fretted/fretless pairs I've collected, my 1st (& Lynx) and 2nd generation SB's are my #1's that aren't going anywhere until I expire or the kids put me in a senior home in order to drain the treasury.
Last edited:
For you series 750 fans…
I prefer the normal G&L spacing, but might be convinced if they do the MFD pickups.
I prefer the normal G&L spacing, but might be convinced if they do the MFD pickups.
How about the 750 JB5 w/21 frets? That would almost certainly get an order from me.
Ah yes. Back to basics! So was it a Kiloton you were most recently playing? I forget.Back to the basics like the early days of Fender all over again. Three models of each and only three colors. Nice retro ad shot brother "merton".
Actually I sold the Kiloton to a local fellow bassist. I also sold my Jazz Bass. I find I prefer the wider PBass neck dimensions and more tonal versatility so I kept my M2000 and I still have "Thud" that Matt Freeman PBass. That one will never be replaced. I also bought a shortscale Sire U5 to teach lessons with and play at sit down gigs or jams and I didn't need five basses so something had to go.Ah yes. Back to basics! So was it a Kiloton you were most recently playing? I forget.
Last December I found a good deal on a Genzler MG350 Combo so I sold the MG350 head I had and sold my Epifani 2x12 cab to pay for it. I'm in a second floor unit now and there was no way I was ever gonna tote that 2x12 up and down 20 steps. That combo is killer and it only weighs 23lbs. I'll pickup up a second BA 110-2 S2 cab for it soon and have a nice little 350w 2x10 rig I can one in each hand them more easily.
Just adjusting to changes in attitude and changes in latitude is all.
Last edited:
Parrot head?Just adjusting to changes in attitude and changes in latitude is all.
Finished up the Underhill Filter Preamp install on the Tribute Fallout (One Pickup - Filter | Underhill Bass). I did not have to alter the body at all. Control cavity is just deep enough to fit a 9v underneath the volume knob. I did have to add a few washers to the pot nuts to account for how thin the pickguard is, but everything tightened up nicely with the extra thickness provided by the washers. They are not visible under the knobs.
Swapped over to Luminlay knobs (I like having number indicators with the filter preamp). Modification is excellent and I would definitely do it again. Preamp is able to handle the MFD output. Set flat, it sounds like the passive setup, with significantly more range on the tone knob (since it cuts to a lower frequency than a passive tone circuit will). With the resonant boost engaged, there is a nice top end attack that can be dialed into the lower frequency range as needed. Mod added significant flexibility without taking anything away.
Sweet! How do you think the filter pre might work with an L-series, say in place of the preamp and passive treble (retaining the bass-cut knob)? It's an interesting idea...
I've had my fretless L2500 for 15 years and I'm STILL discovering new ways to get sounds from it. I also started using my old SWR Bass 350 and the L2500 sounds fantastic with some of the settings on that amp. I have an Aural Enhance bypass on mine, but I've always thought the AE circuit was made to go with an L-series bass in passive series mode. It just works.
I was also a fan of the AE circuit with my L2500. Used it for a long time on a Workingman's 4004 through a Henry the 8x8.
I think you could get the filter to work on the L2500 that way. Seems like you could run the output after the pickup select switch, coil tap switch, and passive bass cut into the buffer input of the filter preamp I linked above.
I have a dual filter preamp on an Ibanez GVB36. I think the dual filter would be fun on an L2500, but it needs a blend control. Do not think it will fit using the existing holes in the body and putting knobs in the switch locations seems too tight.
Not really other than having a deep and abiding respect for the man's many talents and his ingenuity and intelligence. He got a lot of mileage ($$$$) out of just one Top 40 hit record. Boat drinks all around.Parrot head?
Hello!
Anyone found an aftermarket fix for the battery compartment on the L/M2000 basses? Opening it up is a pain and I keep damaging the bass or the plastic.
Thanks!
Anyone found an aftermarket fix for the battery compartment on the L/M2000 basses? Opening it up is a pain and I keep damaging the bass or the plastic.
Thanks!
Loop a piece of tape and use that to pull the cover off the bass. I typically use electrical tape.
Getting antsy waiting for a replacement bass from G&L for a BTO that had several neck problems.
I use tape also, that's the way I've always done it.
Set the bass strings down gently on a soft surface (I don't have a work mat so I use a soft large towel folded in half long ways) on a table and be gentle with the screws and use tape to lift the comparment cover. It's worked fine and never had any damage or issues.
I use tape also, that's the way I've always done it.
Set the bass strings down gently on a soft surface (I don't have a work mat so I use a soft large towel folded in half long ways) on a table and be gentle with the screws and use tape to lift the comparment cover. It's worked fine and never had any damage or issues.
Thinking of trying some LaBella Low Tension Flats on my SB-1, to replace the 35-95 Roto Bass nickel-plated rounds. The total tension would a bit more. I've uptuned one string enough to replicate the difference, and am seeing how that affects the playability. So far the neck has moved a little, but not enough to put me off. Yet.
I've been considering getting a cheap short scale bass to put La Bellas on. Since I've pretty much given up on this instrument, this experiment would be even cheaper.
An MFD is not a great friend to trad flats, but turning it right down to 5 should knock the wind out of its sails.
I've been considering getting a cheap short scale bass to put La Bellas on. Since I've pretty much given up on this instrument, this experiment would be even cheaper.
An MFD is not a great friend to trad flats, but turning it right down to 5 should knock the wind out of its sails.
Have you tried TI's? They are very low tension, and my favorite flats. However, I've not used Labella's, so perhaps I'd like them more than TIs, but I'm not all that interested in spending the money to find out.
