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G&L Club Part 7

I posted in my old NBD thread but to recap, this week, I found about a .5" crack at the base of my L1K's neck, right by the G string. Super bummed about it. Never dropped the bass, never done any extreme weather, etc. I don't know when it happened.

Evidently G&Ls have a 10 year warranty and it's just over a year in my possession. I did reach out G&L support with a picture and they thought (as do I) that it likely wouldn't be covered under warranty. And, even if it was, I don't know if it's worth shipping (get a box, etc etc) just for the crack.

So my question would be, how do I keep it from getting worse? I can definitely feel it if I run a fingernail over it.

View attachment 3770122

View attachment 3770124
I know I'll sound like a jackass, and be the odd man out, but don't worry about it, and just keep playing that beauty.
Things will happen, no reason to get hung up on it.
 
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Always regretted selling my 1980 L-1000 when I was bitten by the Steinberger bug. Finally broke down and took the plunge with this CLF reissue. I really love it. Has all the tone I remember in the old one. Build quality is wonderful. It is the equal of my Fender AV RI favorites and my Laklands. G&L basses continue to be a great value.
View attachment 3776021
What the pho?
Never knew they made a blueburst CLF Wunkay.
That's a beauty.
 
So,
I special ordered an El Wunkay back in '14, when Rocket Music was doing a special run.
Got the bass in December of '14, liked it, for the most part, but never really sat well with me. The frets are too big, and the TR adjustment always seemed a bit "off".
Fast forward to September of '19.
I'm making a routine TR adjustment, and then it happens. The nut gives away, and the neck is no longer moving. My heart sank.
Reach out to my original dealer first, Rocket Music, and Greg refers me to G&L's repair department.
I send the bass in,
And decide to change neck specs as well.
I initially ordered it with a (now defunct) #7 neck. This didn't work for me, so I decided to change the specs to 1-5/8" nut/9.5" radius, and vintage frets. This was going to be a $200 upcharge for the spec change, as the original specs were tied to the serial number, and needed to create a new one.
Don't hear much for months, before finally getting my bass back in early February. It feels great, and I try setting it up, and the TR nut snaps off within 20 minutes of getting into it.
My heart sinks again, and I'm quite frustrated.
I immediately send an email to Memo at G&L, explaining the situation. He was very apologetic, and got a new neck started pronto.
Got it back in about two weeks, compared to the months waiting on the previous fix. Btw, the upcharge ends up getting waived.
The newest neck feels phenomenal, and the bass plays the best it ever has.
The TR adjustment felt a bit sketchy, and caused me some concern, which is reasonable, all things considered.
After a few tweaks, the TR now turns smoothly, and my concern has waned.
Overall, one of the best feeling necks I've ever laid hands on.
I'm slightly trepidatious of future G&L purchases, but I still love the brand, and the product they put out.
Hopefully, any future purchase doesn't exhibit the issues my Wunkay did.
 

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SB question. How close to a traditional P (or lb) can you get with an sb1 or sb2 WITH a tone control? I'm considering an sb but I'd sell my P to do it. I have an L2500 and JB5 and love the feel of a US G&L. I have a three bass limit so if I get an sb I'll sell my P because it overlaps the most. It would be my only four. I'm not worried about an sb2 missing the tone knob as I'll just add it. I know some say you don't need it but I want it and use it. I had an sb1 many years ago but don't have easy access to one now to try so I'm wondering what your opinion is on this IF you have experience with the sb. If I put flats on it and roll back the volume and treble a bit, will I get that classic P out of this MFD? My L2500 gets close. Will the sb get closer? For reference, my current P is one of the Guitar Center limited edition precisions with jazz neck, fully passive. I've got Aguilar pickups in it. It plays and sounds sweet so nothing wrong with it. It's probably just a combination of GAS and an appreciation for the feel of those US made G&L jazz necks on a nice body. Thanks in advance for the opinions.
 
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SB question. How close to a traditional P (or lb) can you get with an sb1 or sb2 WITH a tone control? I'm considering an sb but I'd sell my P to do it. I have an L2500 and JB5 and love the feel of a US G&L. I have a three bass limit so if I get an sb I'll sell my P because it overlaps the most. It would be my only four. I'm not worried about an sb2 missing the tone knob as I'll just add it. I know some say you don't need it but I want it and use it. I had an sb1 many years ago but don't have easy access to one now to try so I'm wondering what your opinion is on this IF you have experience with the sb. If I put flats on it and roll back the volume and treble a bit, will I get that classic P out of this MFD? My L2500 gets close. Will the sb get closer? For reference, my current P is one of the Guitar Center limited edition precisions with jazz neck, fully passive. I've got Aguilar pickups in it. It plays and sounds sweet so nothing wrong with it. It's probably just a combination of GAS and an appreciation for the feel of those US made G&L jazz necks on a nice body. Thanks in advance for the opinions.

Here's a good video that compares the SB-1 to the LB-100 (which is a pretty straight up p bass).



I have an SB-1 and I'd say it gets very close to a "traditional" p bass sound, although the MFD pickup is more aggressive and much higher output. You can also switch out the pickup in an SB-1 with whatever P bass pickup you want, since it's the exact same shape.
 
Hiya GroovyBaby.

I am the owner of two SB2s, one with tone mod, one without. I also own a Fender P.

So probably the easiest way to describe the tone to you, knowing what you have, is that an SB will get you closer to the traditional P sound than will the front pickup of your L2500. That should give you a pretty good idea of what is available, based on what you already have.

It really depends on how close you want to be. Alone, in a quiet room with no other instruments, the SB will not sound like your P. It is more aggressive. It sticks out more, tonally.

In a loud band with a drummer, it will be very close, if you set the tone to make it sound like a traditional Fender P. Close, but not 100%.

Personally, I'm of the opinion that if you want the traditional Fender P sound, get or keep a Fender P. If you want something else, something more, get the SB.

G&Ls are great at getting close to the sound of Fenders, Musicmans, etc. But they are not meant to perfectly copy these designs. And they don't, in my opinion. For me, this is a strength, I like to sound a bit different, I like the tone.

What you want is up to you!

Good luck.

John
 
So,
I special ordered an El Wunkay back in '14, when Rocket Music was doing a special run.
Got the bass in December of '14, liked it, for the most part, but never really sat well with me. The frets are too big, and the TR adjustment always seemed a bit "off".
Fast forward to September of '19.
I'm making a routine TR adjustment, and then it happens. The nut gives away, and the neck is no longer moving. My heart sank.
Reach out to my original dealer first, Rocket Music, and Greg refers me to G&L's repair department.
I send the bass in,
And decide to change neck specs as well.
I initially ordered it with a (now defunct) #7 neck. This didn't work for me, so I decided to change the specs to 1-5/8" nut/9.5" radius, and vintage frets. This was going to be a $200 upcharge for the spec change, as the original specs were tied to the serial number, and needed to create a new one.
Don't hear much for months, before finally getting my bass back in early February. It feels great, and I try setting it up, and the TR nut snaps off within 20 minutes of getting into it.
My heart sinks again, and I'm quite frustrated.
I immediately send an email to Memo at G&L, explaining the situation. He was very apologetic, and got a new neck started pronto.
Got it back in about two weeks, compared to the months waiting on the previous fix. Btw, the upcharge ends up getting waived.
The newest neck feels phenomenal, and the bass plays the best it ever has.
The TR adjustment felt a bit sketchy, and caused me some concern, which is reasonable, all things considered.
After a few tweaks, the TR now turns smoothly, and my concern has waned.
Overall, one of the best feeling necks I've ever laid hands on.
I'm slightly trepidatious of future G&L purchases, but I still love the brand, and the product they put out.
Hopefully, any future purchase doesn't exhibit the issues my Wunkay did.
That is NOT encouraging. When you say it just didn't feel right, what do you mean? Too tight? Something else?
 
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SB question. How close to a traditional P (or lb) can you get with an sb1 or sb2 WITH a tone control? I'm considering an sb but I'd sell my P to do it. I have an L2500 and JB5 and love the feel of a US G&L. I have a three bass limit so if I get an sb I'll sell my P because it overlaps the most. It would be my only four. I'm not worried about an sb2 missing the tone knob as I'll just add it. I know some say you don't need it but I want it and use it. I had an sb1 many years ago but don't have easy access to one now to try so I'm wondering what your opinion is on this IF you have experience with the sb. If I put flats on it and roll back the volume and treble a bit, will I get that classic P out of this MFD? My L2500 gets close. Will the sb get closer? For reference, my current P is one of the Guitar Center limited edition precisions with jazz neck, fully passive. I've got Aguilar pickups in it. It plays and sounds sweet so nothing wrong with it. It's probably just a combination of GAS and an appreciation for the feel of those US made G&L jazz necks on a nice body. Thanks in advance for the opinions.

I own a custom bass built around the SB-2 split coil, a (now) vintage fretless P bass, and a Mike Lull 5-string with a P pickup designed for the classic sound. Alone, in a room, you will hear a difference. That said, if you do a TB search, you'll see an old thread where a bass with the SB pickup actually was picked as the one with the MOST vintage sound. The reason for this is probably that the G&L split coil puts out more bass. In a band context, nobody will be able to tell the difference, except the engineer, who might tell you it's the best bass sound they've ever heard. I actually get this a lot. It is my favourite pickup (I have one in a custom bass). The sound just leaps off the fretboard. One thing to keep in mind is MFDs are designed to let you actually use your volume knob, so the sound is less hairy at about 50-75% than full open.

That said if you have to have 100% accurate P bass tone you might get frustrated. If you want P bass but "more" you will be thrilled. Though you could order a custom LB100 and get the G&L body you want (It's a little bigger than the SB body but I doubt it matters) and a pickup that will get you exactly there (again, run it at 50-70% of volume). I've played LB-100s in stores and really liked them.
 
SB question. How close to a traditional P (or lb) can you get with an sb1 or sb2 WITH a tone control? I'm considering an sb but I'd sell my P to do it. I have an L2500 and JB5 and love the feel of a US G&L. I have a three bass limit so if I get an sb I'll sell my P because it overlaps the most. It would be my only four. I'm not worried about an sb2 missing the tone knob as I'll just add it. I know some say you don't need it but I want it and use it. I had an sb1 many years ago but don't have easy access to one now to try so I'm wondering what your opinion is on this IF you have experience with the sb. If I put flats on it and roll back the volume and treble a bit, will I get that classic P out of this MFD? My L2500 gets close. Will the sb get closer? For reference, my current P is one of the Guitar Center limited edition precisions with jazz neck, fully passive. I've got Aguilar pickups in it. It plays and sounds sweet so nothing wrong with it. It's probably just a combination of GAS and an appreciation for the feel of those US made G&L jazz necks on a nice body. Thanks in advance for the opinions.



Instead of buying an SB-1, have you considered just buying the MFD pickup, installing it in your P, and trying it out first?

Pickup - SB-2 / SB1 MFD
 
No.
I've never done that on any bass when making a TR adjustment.
I've owned probably 24 basses, done tons of TR adjustments, and never had any issue.

Yeah, I don't think the G&L manual says to do it. I can't remember where I saw that I said to loosen the strings completely before adjusting the truss rod, but now I do that every time. I figure there's less chance of it breaking or stripping the nut if there's no tension on the neck.
 
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