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G&L Club Part 7

My guess is going to be DR as they don't have silks, have gold ball ends and you like them :)

Well, they are a little extra zingy for being this old and thought they might be SS although they feel pretty smooth.
Out to be a law; colored silk to show the manufacturer. Like the old days!
Hey you kids, get off of my lawn...
 
So I've been contemplating this shim job and I'm now thinking I need an angled shim.
The action at the first fret is fairly low. If I use a flat shim, the action at the first fret will be lower after installation and adjusting action at the higher frets. If I use an angled shim with the thicker end at the body end of the neck pocket I should have better action at the first fret when I lower the action to where I want it at the higher frets. When looking at other shim jobs on various places on the internet, it seems people are shimming this way; i.e. a narrow shim deep in the neck pocket.
This article addresses what I'm thinking.

https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/19686-guitar-shop-101-how-to-shim-a-bolt-on-neck

He makes a custom shim - I'll buy a couple of the StewMac 0.25 and 0.5 bass shims.

So I ordered the shims from StewMac on Friday afternoon - too late to ship that day. It shipped on Monday and I received them in the mail today. That's the second order in the last few weeks I've gotten from StewMac in 2 days. USPS must be slow.
I ordered the 3-pack of 0.25, 0.5 and1.0 degree shims. I used the 0.25 and that was just enough to require me to raise the E and G string saddles as all strings were close enough to the frets that they would fret out in the higher frets if I fretted anywhere above the 7th fret. The neck is <<almost>> straight according to my eyeballs and the action is nice and low. I'm going to play it a bit and re-check everything in a couple of days since I've changed the angle of the neck to the body.
It was an easy and straight forward project that took me less than an hour. I watched a couple of videos on how others did it and that was helpful and saved time. Fun stuff with great rewards!
 
How close to a P bass does an L1000 get? I've always liked the idea of them but I haven't spent too much time with one. Any insight would be appreciated!
IME, it gets the P-bass tone I hear in my head, and hear on recordings, but have never been able to achieve with an actual P.
I've got two, an '81, which you're familiar with (thanks again for the fret level!) And a '14.
The '14 is alder/rosewood, and gets closer to the P tone, but is still very much it's own thing.

One thing I've tried, which is pretty outside the box, is to lower the pickup, remove four of the pole pieces, leaving the remaining ones in a pseudo "P" layout, and then raise those.
To my ears, it emphasized the strings in a way that closer emulated a P.
 
IME, it gets the P-bass tone I hear in my head, and hear on recordings, but have never been able to achieve with an actual P.
I've got two, an '81, which you're familiar with (thanks again for the fret level!) And a '14.
The '14 is alder/rosewood, and gets closer to the P tone, but is still very much it's own thing.

One thing I've tried, which is pretty outside the box, is to lower the pickup, remove four of the pole pieces, leaving the remaining ones in a pseudo "P" layout, and then raise those.
To my ears, it emphasized the strings in a way that closer emulated a P.

Ive heard about people taking out the pole pieces before, but doesn't that take away your use of single coil mode?
 
So I ordered the shims from StewMac on Friday afternoon - too late to ship that day. It shipped on Monday and I received them in the mail today. That's the second order in the last few weeks I've gotten from StewMac in 2 days. USPS must be slow.
I ordered the 3-pack of 0.25, 0.5 and1.0 degree shims. I used the 0.25 and that was just enough to require me to raise the E and G string saddles as all strings were close enough to the frets that they would fret out in the higher frets if I fretted anywhere above the 7th fret. The neck is <<almost>> straight according to my eyeballs and the action is nice and low. I'm going to play it a bit and re-check everything in a couple of days since I've changed the angle of the neck to the body.
It was an easy and straight forward project that took me less than an hour. I watched a couple of videos on how others did it and that was helpful and saved time. Fun stuff with great rewards!

Speaking from the USPS side, we're not slow, we're just incredibly overwhelmed right now. It's like Christmas all over again... thanks to folks going nuts and over ordering online to... "stimulate the economy ".... we've been slammed for the past two months..
I know it stinks waiting, but hang in there... we're busting tail and doing the best we can... and depending the area, being incredibly understaffed and overworked doesn't help..
Be patient my friend, it'll get to you
 
Speaking from the USPS side, we're not slow, we're just incredibly overwhelmed right now. It's like Christmas all over again... thanks to folks going nuts and over ordering online to... "stimulate the economy ".... we've been slammed for the past two months..
I know it stinks waiting, but hang in there... we're busting tail and doing the best we can... and depending the area, being incredibly understaffed and overworked doesn't help..
Be patient my friend, it'll get to you

MTN - I think you mis-read my message, I got it in TWO days - That's phenomenal!!!! Whatever you guys are doing, KEEP DOING IT!
 
Speaking from the USPS side, we're not slow, we're just incredibly overwhelmed right now. It's like Christmas all over again... thanks to folks going nuts and over ordering online to... "stimulate the economy ".... we've been slammed for the past two months..
I know it stinks waiting, but hang in there... we're busting tail and doing the best we can... and depending the area, being incredibly understaffed and overworked doesn't help..
Be patient my friend, it'll get to you

Thank you for everything you do. You are out there, making sure that everyone gets essential (and non essential) things in the middle of a global pandemic. I have a lot of respect for people like yourself and your fellow workers. We are fortunate to have you.

We often praise front line health workers, with good reasons. We forget sometimes, that there are a lot of other people out there who are just as heroic, strong and deserving of our thanks, without whom our entire society would crumble. You are a part of that. Thank you, again.
 
Interested in how you'll like chromes on your MJ-4. Please report back?


Got my chromes on my MJ-4 tonight. The tone is really quite good. It's super punchy with lots of mids. With rounds I normally boost my mid output, but with chromes there wasn't any need. They're not as grindy sounding as my rounds, but if I need a bit more grit, I'd just add some with my distortion pedal.

The most surprising thing to me was how much more tension they seem to have. Bending a string takes much more effort. Is this normal with all flats or just Chromes in particular?
 
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Got my chromes on my MJ-4 tonight. The tone is really quite good. It's super punchy with lots of mids. With rounds I normally boost my mid output, but with chromes there wasn't any need. They're not as grindy sounding as my rounds, but if I need a bit more grit, I'd just add some with my distortion pedal.

The most surprising thing to me was how much more tension they seem to have. Bending a string takes much more effort. Is this normal with all flats or just Chromes in particular?

It's the chromes. They're pretty stiff.
 
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FWIW - Here's my own experience and opinion with flats, in descending order of stiffness:
Roto, Chromes, Fender, Labella, GHS, Ernie Ball, Labella DTF, TI.
I haven't tried:
DR, Dunlop, or Sadowsky.
But this is a G&L thread. There are TONS of flatwound comparison threads so don't take MY word for it :).

That's pretty good, although I'd swap GHS and La Bella, and insert EB Cobalts just ahead of the TIs. :thumbsup:
 
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I briefly had some DR flats on my M-2500, and they're flexible as flats go--much more flexible than Chromes, for example. Like many DR strings, they have round cores, which provide more flexibility. The Lo-Riders are hex core, and noticeably stiffer than the round core types.

I loved the tone of nickel Lo-Riders on my old L-1500, but due to various hand and finger issues I've completely switched over to more flexible round cores like Fat Beams (SB-2), Sunbeams (Fender Jazz), and Pure Blues (JB-5). The M-2500 now has Dean Markley SR2000s, which are flexible too, but I'm not sure if they have round cores.
 
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