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G&L: L1000 VS L2000

#42
Not really harsh.
More aggressive...yeah, might go that far.

Or, just different.

The 1500 bridge pup placement is a bit different than the 2000's.
If you have a 2000 to try, imagine it just a little fatter, as I believe the 1500 is a skosh further from the bridge.
 
#43
rnilson said:
Thanks for your contribution to this thread.....
Click to expand...

So what do you suggest I say? I just finished modding my L-2500s with single coil and global series parallel switches. These things (one fretted and one fretless) are probably THE most amazing passive basses I've ever played. And THEN you get to flip on active boost if you want it. These basses have a range of tone that truly is astounding.

So how does that stack up as a "suggestion" for someone "nerotic" about absolute simplicity in a bass. I don't want to promote a trip to analysis here. I CAN dig a simple "sweet spot" style bass like a P-bass or the L-1000. But that doesn't tend to last long with me. Pretty soon I want what it does and more besides. I don't want just one "ultimate tone" in a bass. I want as MANY "ultimate tones" as I can pull out of it.

But that's me. And you freely admit that's not you. So then WHY are you asking about basses that are just the opposite of what you really want? Hey, I've two identical basses (Not the G&Ls) with flats on one and rounds on the other. It started as a temporary thing while I was working on them and I loved it so much they've stayed that way.

So my advice, all things considered, is to forget all the knobs and switches and tone shifts and simply buy another P bass and string it with the strings you want.

That a detailed enough recommendation for ya?
 
#44
jfh2424 said:
I kinda dig the L2000, myself...

FamilyGL.jpg


John
Click to expand...

I dig that brown sunburst fretless. VERY nice.
 
#45
bassbenj said:
So what do you suggest I say? I just finished modding my L-2500s with single coil and global series parallel switches. These things (one fretted and one fretless) are probably THE most amazing passive basses I've ever played. And THEN you get to flip on active boost if you want it. These basses have a range of tone that truly is astounding.

So how does that stack up as a "suggestion" for someone "nerotic" about absolute simplicity in a bass. I don't want to promote a trip to analysis here. I CAN dig a simple "sweet spot" style bass like a P-bass or the L-1000. But that doesn't tend to last long with me. Pretty soon I want what it does and more besides. I don't want just one "ultimate tone" in a bass. I want as MANY "ultimate tones" as I can pull out of it.

But that's me. And you freely admit that's not you. So then WHY are you asking about basses that are just the opposite of what you really want? Hey, I've two identical basses (Not the G&Ls) with flats on one and rounds on the other. It started as a temporary thing while I was working on them and I loved it so much they've stayed that way.

So my advice, all things considered, is to forget all the knobs and switches and tone shifts and simply buy another P bass and string it with the strings you want.

That a detailed enough recommendation for ya?
Click to expand...

Yes thanks....:D
 
#46
Hi guys,

another G&L fan here. I own 1983 L2K but like L1K also. Since I don't have enough money to buy l1k I'm thinking of ways to wire my l2k into single coil. How can this be done and if you recommend that or just wait to raise enough money to buy one l1k.

Thanks,

Peter
 
#47
Jens1 said:
Hi guys,

another G&L fan here. I own 1983 L2K but like L1K also. Since I don't have enough money to buy l1k I'm thinking of ways to wire my l2k into single coil. How can this be done and if you recommend that or just wait to raise enough money to buy one l1k.

Thanks,

Peter
Click to expand...
There are some helpful wiring diagrams on this site. http://www.bassesbyleo.com/
 
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#49
If one is looking for an older G&L how do you check for this?

Chef said:
ski jump...yeah...

The older G&L's (and some Fender and MusicMan) have three bolt neck attachment, with a microtilt adjuster there th level the neck to the body.
If this is raised up alot, and then the attachment bolts torqued too tight, it can warp the end of the neck upwards.
This can be minimal, or tragic.
Sometimes a fret dress will fix it, sometimes you have to remove frets from like 14 on up, replane the neck and refret. Bummer.

Completely preventable if you know proper setup procedure for these.
Click to expand...
 
#50
Check to see if the microtilit is actually being used
If so, how much
Visually inspect the end of the neck
Make sure the high notes play well without frettin out
 
#51
I had an L-1000 and a Tribute L-1505 and they were two of the best basses I've ever owned (right up until some low-class, light-fingered b@$tard relieved our gear van of them in one fell swoop). The 1505 was purchased so I could ease my way into the world of 5-string basses, so it did get a lot of play, but the L-1000 was (and would still be) in my arsenal because you just can't beat that sound, IMHO. I've tried other L series basses, and they've just got too much complicated plumbing for my tastes.

I need to sock back for one of the new CLF L-1000s; if they're to be believed, with the exception of the lighter/later body style, they're alleged to be exactly as they were in their heyday.
 
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#52
Screenshot 2021-10-15 4.20.32 PM.png
I too have recently purchased a beautiful 1988 L1000 Trans Blue Fretless. I must admit, it took some un programming and reprogramming to understand this bass and how it works. I mean, yeah.. it's one pickup, but with the 3 way switch and more importantly the bass and treble cut pots.. I've been 100% programmed to run with my p and j basses with the tone pot wide open for decades. I was using this bass the same way for a couple weeks both T and B wide open and the sound was HUGE! however, where this circuitry really shines is if you start with both controls turned off 100% where you hear the natural real tone of the bass, then ever so slightly add in bass and treble(these controls are quite dynamic and subtle and have a nice arc of effect from slight to medium to full on.. Not only will this open up tonal possibilities but it shows you how ingenious Leo Fender was. These separate tone controls are magic compared to the standard fender tone cut. The subtleties available with the wider tonal spectrum of the MFD pickup and then these two passive controls is well beyond what the trad J or P can do. Now.. I have a P and a J that make sounds that I can't live without... I'm not knocking fender stuff, I love it. But, it is well worth any bassists time to really dig into a G&L Bass, particularly the L1000.. For its simplicity, It's really quite a kaleidoscope of a tonal pallet.. with a natural edge and punchiness you simply can't get from a passive P or J. It took me about 2-3 week of tweaking and playing quite a bit to discover the settings between my amp and the EQing on the bass to really appreciate voice of this instrument. It's a treasure.
 
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#54
I have used a 1k since 1983. It’s my #1 all the way. My wife has a nice light L2k that I have also come to greatly appreciate.

They are different. Get the 1k. It has plenty to keep you busy and it stomps p’s all day long and into the dark night. I keep it simple - all up 100%, pick my coil setting, play, smile.
 

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