G1's 5th build

[pilotjones]

Very nice. You should do some padauk pup covers and a padauk truss rod cover or nut.

 

[Gone]

Okay this is a really old thread, but I've been out of action a couple of years.

I started this build up again about a month ago.

I'm pretty much on the home straight:
- route pups
- drill tuner / pot / jack holes
- final sanding
- finish
- final fret prep

Quite happy with how it's going. Will probably post pics sometime.

I was wondering... I'm not really happy with the headstock. I was thinking maybe I could make a new headstock and cut a square pocket into it. Then cut the current headstock into the same square shape then slot the old stump into the new headstock. Lastly cover the joint at the back with a veneer.

Anyone ever attempted anything like this? Advisable?

Maybe it's not a great idea, but I can't imagine it's any less stable than a normal scarf joint with ears glued on and a veneer on top. It's almost like I'm cutting off the ears and adding new ears then recovering the back and front. This will allow me another go to cut the headstock shape.

 

[Gone]

Okay, I've decided to tidy up the current headstock but leave it as is otherwise.

A couple of pics of the progress:

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Now just waiting on the pickups and bridge to arrive

 

[ctmullins]

Looks great! Glad to see you're back in the saddle with this one. It'd be a shame not to finish something as lovely as that.

 

[Gone]

Pickups and bridges finally arrived

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The bass is basically together. Although when I added the single string bridges the head of one of the screws completely broke off. Wasn't even applying that much pressure.

Any tips on how to get the remainder of the screw out. Unfortunately it's flush with the wood otherwise I could probably grip with a pair of pliers.

Anyways, need to start focusing on finishing now. Away for the next two weekends. After that I've got about 2 - 3 weeks to get this done. The aim is to have it done before my wedding, but the wedding admin is beginning to take over...

 

[bmason81]

Small tap and die set you can get at Lowe's, might be your best at getting it out

 

[Snort]

Center punch the shaft, drill the screw with an appropriate size metal drill to be able to insert an easy out, use the easy out to exrtact the screw. Or if it is brass you can sometimes put a slot into the shaft and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove it. Or in the worst case drill the whole thing oversize 1/4", get some 1/4" dowel to plug the hole sand flat and redrill the screw hole. This time lubricate the screw a little with wax to save the screw from over torque.

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

This^^

 

[Gone]

Alright, I'm ready to take it apart and start finishing. Really happy with the B and the E on this 36"-34".

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[Gone]

Another question for you guys.

Whiles I was making the guitar I unfortunately dropped it whiles the truss-rod was under tension. This caused a crack in the neck around the 12th fret. This seems to be where the truss-rod is anchored at the non adjustment end. It's a headstock adjusted hotrod.

I repaired the crack and continued with my build.

I've now got the guitar basically finished. But when I tension the truss-rod it caused the crack to come back. The tighter I tension it the more the splinter begins to lift. If the truss rod is not tightened but the neck has tension from the strings it does not lift.

I'm assuming that it lifts because the end of truss-rod is pushing against it. Any ideas of how to fix this?

Is it simply enough to glue and clamp the crack or do I need to try and make sure the truss-rod is anchored better against the sides of the truss-rod slot. I could maybe try and fill the damaged area with epoxy, but will need to find a way to keep epoxy off the thread on the truss-rod. Any ideas?

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[JustForSport]

Nothing to suggest on the neck,
but I've found that automotive sheet metal screws are a lot stronger than wood screws and they can be bought in many different head shapes, thread sizes, and finishes.
Much better for bridge screws. Seems the finishes are more durable, also.

 

[pilotjones]

Another question for you guys.

Whiles I was making the guitar I unfortunately dropped it whiles the truss-rod was under tension. This caused a crack in the neck around the 12th fret. This seems to be where the truss-rod is anchored at the non adjustment end. It's a headstock adjusted hotrod.

I repaired the crack and continued with my build.

I've now got the guitar basically finished. But when I tension the truss-rod it caused the crack to come back. The tighter I tension it the more the splinter begins to lift. If the truss rod is not tightened but the neck has tension from the strings it does not lift.

I'm assuming that it lifts because the end of truss-rod is pushing against it. Any ideas of how to fix this?

Is it simply enough to glue and clamp the crack or do I need to try and make sure the truss-rod is anchored better against the sides of the truss-rod slot. I could maybe try and fill the damaged area with epoxy, but will need to find a way to keep epoxy off the thread on the truss-rod. Any ideas?

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I think your best bet may be to pry off the fretboard, remove the rod, glue the cracks, and re-rout for a proper full-length truss rod.