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Gallien krueger 1001rb and ampeg classic 810e
- Thread starter garrett-777
- Start date
I was very happy with the sound of my G-K2000RB head through my Ampeg 810E.
My guess is a G-K1001 through an 810E would be a killer setup.
(That 2000RB/810E combo was also the loudest bass setup I've ever played through.
)
My guess is a G-K1001 through an 810E would be a killer setup.
(That 2000RB/810E combo was also the loudest bass setup I've ever played through.
)
If you prefer a somewhat warm sound, I'd go with the 700rb-II, if you want literally tons of clean headroom, the 1001rb-II is tough to beat - either will work really well with an SVT810e...
I prefer the 700rb-II, as it's always been more than loud enough for any band I've ever played in - and I play in a loud 2 guitar(tube half stacks) band, yet cops a warmer tone than the 1001rb-II...
- georgestrings
I prefer the 700rb-II, as it's always been more than loud enough for any band I've ever played in - and I play in a loud 2 guitar(tube half stacks) band, yet cops a warmer tone than the 1001rb-II...
- georgestrings
I had this setup for a while. It sounded great. I got tired of moving the 165 pound SVT 810 cab by myself and eventually switched to a 115 and 410.
Yeah that's okay but surely having to do two separate lifts (one for the 4x10 and one for the 1x15) is just as much hassle? I used to use a GK 4x10 and 2x12 but I prefer one cab trip.
I run with a GK 1001RB and an Ampeg 810 and it never fails to satisfy. Yeah sure, it's heavy but its got wheels and a good hand rail. Plus, it's not hard to add two spring-loaded flipout handles to the front of the base so another band member can help with any stairs. I did that and it's so much easier to carry now.
See?
I run with a GK 1001RB and an Ampeg 810 and it never fails to satisfy. Yeah sure, it's heavy but its got wheels and a good hand rail. Plus, it's not hard to add two spring-loaded flipout handles to the front of the base so another band member can help with any stairs. I did that and it's so much easier to carry now.
See?
I run a 700rb-II into an Ampeg 810 and that setup just rips. I play in a stupid loud band and yet I keep the master at noon and the gain around 9 o'clock for most stage shows... anything more than that and I overpower everyone.
I seriously doubt you'll be disappointed
I seriously doubt you'll be disappointed
Reviving an old thread because I'm reviving a beat up old SVT 8X10 cab, but if I have to move this thing there will be no reviving this even older more beat-up bass player.
I replaced all the drivers with lighter Eminence that have neo magnets. The magnet structures and stamped steel frames are still pretty heavy. Probably saves about 30+ pounds? Still a bit more than 100 when done, I conjecture. It's still significant as the weight of each adds up fast with 8 of them.
This one has no wheels or skid plates at the moment. I hate the idea of using skateboard trucks.
So features to consider, from other threads and various places:
1) More than 2 wheels along the back 'angled' edge. But on uneven surfaces, unless they have soft rubber wheels some wheels may be off the ground and rattle. I've had this problem before, and cut some sponges into wedges to jam into wheels if they rattle. Pain in the butt. But with only 2 small narrow wheels you can't really move the bottom across grass, dirt, etc. and the skid ralis get a lot more beat up on stairs. Bigger wheels also mean that the rear has a wider track and won't ever fall over backward.
2) Much larger rubber-tired wheels along the back 'angled' edge, but not pneumatic (pain in the butt).
3) Smaller caster wheels at the front edge for moving cabinet when it is standing up and not tilted back. Will this allow it to roll off stage too easily? Will I need retractable feet or locking casters (locking against caster rotation and/or wheel rotation?)? Will I need to carry anti-roll "cookies" or some kind of wheel chocks?
4) It's possible to have more than 2 front wheels, but that makes it more vulnerable to stopping when it hits any small pebble on a floor, and possibly even tip over.
5) With some smaller wheels at the front as in #3, it's also possible to put the same small casters in the back, which would allow you to roll it sideways, for example. But that means the big main rear wheels are off the ground when in-use, and could rattle unless chosen very carefully.
6) Some tilt-back-to-move cabinets that move like a hand-truck now come with a lightweight alujminum diamond-tread kick plate for you to push with your foot against to tilt it back. Something like a block of wood mounted on the back of the cabinet would make it even easier to tilt back, but would also catch on stairs. If big wheels stick out the back, then a low block on the back could be mounted on the angle board and be protected within the profile of the wheels....and covered with aluminujm diamond-plate.
7) Multiple aluminum slider rails on the back are a possibility. Slider rails aren't really much good on stairs, especially not concrete stairs, but they do help load into an SUV etc. The more there are the less load on each, and the lighter the better.
8) There are real stair-sliders which are small rollers between plates, with an short automotive-type fan belt riding on the rollers. These things work great, and are usually found bolted onto an appliance-dolly hand truck. But they rattle A LOT and would need to be removable.
9) If each edge of the back of the cabinet had about 4 staggered wheels that overlap horizontally, then it could go down stairs with only a very slight "bump bump bump" which might actually make it a little easier to control. But again I would have to choose carefully so they don't rattle when off the ground.
10) If I don't have front casters too, but have large rear wheels, then the rubber feet in the front would need to be much larger.
11) Folding cabinet handles mounted on the bottom near the front, as someone else did in this thread, are an excellent idea, unless they rattle when gravity is pulling them down a bit while playing. If the wheels are really big you could even mount another towel-bar type handle between the front feet. They sell handicapped bars for the bathroom in many sizes, and they are really strong. A rigid front bar would be even better than folding ones, with greater control over tipping and torsion, no chance of pinching fingers, and also protects the front edge against damage.
12) Of course if I bolt too much of this junk on it will always rattle and weigh as much as it did with the original drivers. And with a bunch of wheels or big wheels it might not fit into a standard shipping AT road case. Vinyl covers area another problem if there are a lot of metal slider rails, as the rails need to protrude thru the vinyl if they are going to do anything.
13) There is a lot to be said for making a wood front cover that latches on with twist-type cam latches. And aluminum edges and beefy cast aluminum metal corners. It doesn't end up looking like a classic old SVT bottom, but it doesn't end up looking like this beat-up piece of junk every few years either.
Of course if I add all kinds of wheels and bars and sliders and front covers and vinyl covers, it will weigh more than it did originally with the heavy stock speakers.
Any and all opinions and advice would be much appreciated.
I replaced all the drivers with lighter Eminence that have neo magnets. The magnet structures and stamped steel frames are still pretty heavy. Probably saves about 30+ pounds? Still a bit more than 100 when done, I conjecture. It's still significant as the weight of each adds up fast with 8 of them.
This one has no wheels or skid plates at the moment. I hate the idea of using skateboard trucks.
So features to consider, from other threads and various places:
1) More than 2 wheels along the back 'angled' edge. But on uneven surfaces, unless they have soft rubber wheels some wheels may be off the ground and rattle. I've had this problem before, and cut some sponges into wedges to jam into wheels if they rattle. Pain in the butt. But with only 2 small narrow wheels you can't really move the bottom across grass, dirt, etc. and the skid ralis get a lot more beat up on stairs. Bigger wheels also mean that the rear has a wider track and won't ever fall over backward.
2) Much larger rubber-tired wheels along the back 'angled' edge, but not pneumatic (pain in the butt).
3) Smaller caster wheels at the front edge for moving cabinet when it is standing up and not tilted back. Will this allow it to roll off stage too easily? Will I need retractable feet or locking casters (locking against caster rotation and/or wheel rotation?)? Will I need to carry anti-roll "cookies" or some kind of wheel chocks?
4) It's possible to have more than 2 front wheels, but that makes it more vulnerable to stopping when it hits any small pebble on a floor, and possibly even tip over.
5) With some smaller wheels at the front as in #3, it's also possible to put the same small casters in the back, which would allow you to roll it sideways, for example. But that means the big main rear wheels are off the ground when in-use, and could rattle unless chosen very carefully.
6) Some tilt-back-to-move cabinets that move like a hand-truck now come with a lightweight alujminum diamond-tread kick plate for you to push with your foot against to tilt it back. Something like a block of wood mounted on the back of the cabinet would make it even easier to tilt back, but would also catch on stairs. If big wheels stick out the back, then a low block on the back could be mounted on the angle board and be protected within the profile of the wheels....and covered with aluminujm diamond-plate.
7) Multiple aluminum slider rails on the back are a possibility. Slider rails aren't really much good on stairs, especially not concrete stairs, but they do help load into an SUV etc. The more there are the less load on each, and the lighter the better.
8) There are real stair-sliders which are small rollers between plates, with an short automotive-type fan belt riding on the rollers. These things work great, and are usually found bolted onto an appliance-dolly hand truck. But they rattle A LOT and would need to be removable.
9) If each edge of the back of the cabinet had about 4 staggered wheels that overlap horizontally, then it could go down stairs with only a very slight "bump bump bump" which might actually make it a little easier to control. But again I would have to choose carefully so they don't rattle when off the ground.
10) If I don't have front casters too, but have large rear wheels, then the rubber feet in the front would need to be much larger.
11) Folding cabinet handles mounted on the bottom near the front, as someone else did in this thread, are an excellent idea, unless they rattle when gravity is pulling them down a bit while playing. If the wheels are really big you could even mount another towel-bar type handle between the front feet. They sell handicapped bars for the bathroom in many sizes, and they are really strong. A rigid front bar would be even better than folding ones, with greater control over tipping and torsion, no chance of pinching fingers, and also protects the front edge against damage.
12) Of course if I bolt too much of this junk on it will always rattle and weigh as much as it did with the original drivers. And with a bunch of wheels or big wheels it might not fit into a standard shipping AT road case. Vinyl covers area another problem if there are a lot of metal slider rails, as the rails need to protrude thru the vinyl if they are going to do anything.
13) There is a lot to be said for making a wood front cover that latches on with twist-type cam latches. And aluminum edges and beefy cast aluminum metal corners. It doesn't end up looking like a classic old SVT bottom, but it doesn't end up looking like this beat-up piece of junk every few years either.
Of course if I add all kinds of wheels and bars and sliders and front covers and vinyl covers, it will weigh more than it did originally with the heavy stock speakers.
Any and all opinions and advice would be much appreciated.
Another weirder idea...have you ever seen the biggest brawniest appliance dollies? Like for moving an enormous zub-zero fridge? The hand-truck has another fold-out section with locking arms, sort of like a really good A-type ladder might fold. That fold-out section has two more wheels which are often swivel casters. That way, once the appliance is strapped in and the hand truck is tipped over, the operator doesn't have to balance it anymore, it rides on 4 wheels. It also makes sure it will never crash all the way down while initially tipping it. Probably over-kill for an SVT and adds weight, but an interesting concept.
Which brings up another concept: forget all this stuff and make it all removable, as in: just get a really good appliance dolly with stair rollers and big wheels, preferably a really good one made of aluminum.
I think my plan is starting to solidify. I'm not going to move it that often, as I'm not a professional musician. I do want some kind of a removable front to protect the grill cloth and speakers, that I can strap on with ratchet straps, as I have plenty of ratcheting straps. I just bought a decent appliance dolly with stair roller belts and a strap to hold a refrig or SVT etc. on. I need wheels, so I'll probably get 3 non-swivel wheels (fixed-axle, not casters) for the 2 stock locations and one more in the middle. Then instead of the standard 2 or 3 skid-plates I'm thinking of using four aluminum strips with a replaceable nylon strip on top. There are also disposable nylon slider shapes available, which snap over something like a wooden or aluminum strip. Nylon ones might work a lot better than metal. Unfortunately, really big long nylon blocks are expensive. They don't need to be long to handle the stairs, but they do for lifting and sliding an SVT into an SUV, pickup truck, truck, etc.
Nylon bar with 1" wide X 3/4" tall rectangular cross-section is about $7.78 / foot. So just 2 sliders each 3 feet long would cost around $50. I would probably want more sliders on the sides too.
...and sliders that are only 3/4" high might not protect the tolex very well, unless there are at least 3 sliders.
These "slider" bars are cut from plate that's 4' long. If you have a table saw, you can save a little by buying the sheet plate and cutting it into strips yourself.
I've also considered using Corian or the similar slightly cheaper Avonite solid acrylic, but being much harder it is more likely to chip.
I think the trick is to use wide nylon strips, and the more of them the better.
I've also considered using Corian or the similar slightly cheaper Avonite solid acrylic, but being much harder it is more likely to chip.
I think the trick is to use wide nylon strips, and the more of them the better.
How much of this stuff can be bolted down right over the tolex? It's difficult to apply tolex around such things, probably easier to glue it down then cut around and pull it back off.
A much more economical way would be wheels just slightly larger than stock, and oak strips on the back covered with thinner nylon sliders. I could get away with just two 1/4" thick by 2" wide sliders on top of oak strips about 1/2" X 2" wide, and it would be a lot cheaper. With sliders that are 2" wide some counterbored flat-head screws are no longer a problem either.
On the sides of the cabinet, long oak strips without nylon sliders might work sort of like the "feet" on Orange amp cabinets. That wouldn't be great for sliding into an SUV or pickup truck, but would be fine if it was slid in on its back then rolled over onto its side.
On the sides of the cabinet, long oak strips without nylon sliders might work sort of like the "feet" on Orange amp cabinets. That wouldn't be great for sliding into an SUV or pickup truck, but would be fine if it was slid in on its back then rolled over onto its side.
