I've been running a 1001RB for over 15 years and have never looked back. Glad you got your issues worked out! I love this era of GK heads! I've found that with these things I can get my sound out of any cabs I pair it with.
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I've been running a 1001RB for over 15 years and have never looked back. Glad you got your issues worked out! I love this era of GK heads! I've found that with these things I can get my sound out of any cabs I pair it with.
AH350X into stacked 1048H's.
But they're apples and oranges. Let's keep this all things GK.
Love my 700RBII.
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THAT is a righteous rig! (Running a Modulus through it also!
) I had a SMX 12 band 410 combo. To your point, I am VERY MUCH looking forward to getting this 700rb resurrected! 
For anyone having the same problem with MBF fans not coming on...
I emailed Jason, he told me the Q1 (1st transistor) was changed from an MPSA06 to a 2SC4793.
Says that's likely what failed, if the fans are good.
Tested the fans, which work fine.
To be clear, the amp works, but will eventually overheat if I don't fix it. Thinking of ordering the tiny transistor and doing it myself. Should just be taki g out the board, flipping it over, and solder in the new transistor.
Anyone ever done this before?
Also, he sent me the amp schematics, if those are useful to anyone.
I emailed Jason, he told me the Q1 (1st transistor) was changed from an MPSA06 to a 2SC4793.
Says that's likely what failed, if the fans are good.
Tested the fans, which work fine.
To be clear, the amp works, but will eventually overheat if I don't fix it. Thinking of ordering the tiny transistor and doing it myself. Should just be taki g out the board, flipping it over, and solder in the new transistor.
Anyone ever done this before?
Also, he sent me the amp schematics, if those are useful to anyone.
Agree with this statement.
This is most likely unnecessary, but I've been running my two MB heads for many years with absolutely no issue. They've had a bit of bumping around too.
Well, GK tech was extremely helpful in sending me the part info and schematics; parts are inbound, ETA Thursday so I'm prepping for surgery:
Trust me - I'm a doctor!
Trust me - I'm a doctor!
Jason said he is doing warranty only. So Have to use one of his recommended or somewhere I know of. Not happy at all. Never experienced that from a company. I always had an amp fixed by the same company warranty or not.
These are hard times for everyone. They may be short staffed because of Covid-19. We're all doing the best we can. Hopefully you can get your amp fixed and get happy again.
Last year I had talked to Jason relative to my 700 repair and he said they were only working on warranty repairs. Whether it has to do with a policy of preference toward prioritizing newer product warranty repairs to encourage purchases of new models, or phasing-out repair of old product lines, over a period of time, replacement parts for older product will also be phased out. It's just how things work nowadays.
Right, that policy was implemented pre-covid.
At least component level repairs should be feasible with a good tech (if you can find one).
The following link not withstanding, a localized internet search should lead to
qualified electronic repair. TB, FB and other social media groups for musicians
can also offer suggestions. Word of mouth is always a good source. Also calling
the local GC or a known guitar tech for referral. But always start off with an
authorized factory repair facility. I just got lucky to have one local. I bowed up
on the first estimate but soon realized I was lucky to even have access to a
qualified tech, let alone parts availability. Try owning a Roland Juno G in need
of a replacement LCD....
Authorized Service Centers — Gallien-Krueger
Super stoked. Leaving work today and got the call that my 1001 has been repaired. Some reworked solder joints and some deoxit on the pots for good measure and they say she's good to go, $120+tax. Can't wait to get my workhorse back.
If anybody needs feet and/or handles for a 1001RB : For Sale - GK 1001RB II Feet and Handles - Just Pay Shipping
The overview:
UNPLUG THE AMP!
Remove the top cover of the amp and carefully pull the controller chip out of its socket.
The details:
IIRC, the most confusing part was that the top cover connects to the back of the amp where the fan vents out - those 4 screws seem unrelated, but have to be removed before you can pull the top off.
Once in, you'll be looking at the top of two circuit boards, the larger one towards the back of the amp house the power and power amp circuitry.
Up front, connecting to the knobs, is the preamp board.
Toward the back middle of the preamp board is an integrated circuit in a socket - I think it's a 16-pin IC.
For reference, I've included a picture of an 8-pin IC next to an iPhone connector. The 16-pin IC looks like an 8-pin, but is roughly the size of the lightning connector.
Good luck, be careful, and if you have ANY doubt, stop and put the amp back together.
Attachments
Well, that was a fun 24 hours.... Got my amp back last night, everything seemed good. Today, it started the same popping and static but to a lesser degree than before, so back to the shop it goes..... *sigh*
That's frustrating, I have felt your pain before.
This time I'm the shop:
Note the new components in the upper left (only need two of the three) and all the screws holding the heat sink to the board. I have to replace the two that are "shiny side up" here:
