Gene Simmons LoBue Tribute Build

[Ironfingers]

Be super careful if you are going to use a rasp on that excess. It looks like it could break easily if you put too much pressure on it. But it could just be the way it looks in the pic.

I would use a drum sander or angle grinder to take it down most of the way then a half-round file to blend it in.

 

[bassgod76]

Okay. I haven't really thought about a plan of attack yet. Drum sander? Is that like an oscillating one?

 

[SGD Lutherie]

Do you have a stationary belt sander?

 

[bassgod76]

Yeah, but the barrels that hold the belt are rather large

 

[Ironfingers]

I mean something like below that chucks into a drill (or drill press). The smaller size would work well. Just use light pressure sand enough to keep it from breaking off. Some 80 or 100 grit taped to a broom handle would work too if you don't mind doing it by hand. Or a dremel.

http://www.amazon.com/Abrasives-808203-Drums-Sanding-Sleeves/dp/B008SHZIY0

 

[bassgod76]

I mean something like below that chucks into a drill (or drill press). The smaller size would work well. Just use light pressure sand enough to keep it from breaking off. Some 80 or 100 grit taped to a broom handle would work too if you don't mind doing it by hand. Or a dremel.

http://www.amazon.com/Abrasives-808203-Drums-Sanding-Sleeves/dp/B008SHZIY0

I'm fairly certain my dad has these. Thanks guys.

 

[bassgod76]

I messed with body routing today. I'm really going to have to get a handle on that big bit I purchased. Once started, the bit works well. However initial contact tearout is hard to avoid.

Question: My mahogany blank is 1.75" thick. Is this too thick? If so, I'd be forced to plane it down. The problem is that my Dad's bed planer has a max width of 12". My body will be a bit over 13". With this in mind, I'd be forced to rip the piece in half, plane it down, and Re-glue it. Thoughts?

 

[Ironfingers]

1.75" is standard for Fender basses, so it's fine in that respect. It's more of a weight issue. You are using Mahogany which is heavier than ash/alder. But since it's smaller than those basses, things might even out weight wise. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but you may since you are also wearing however many pounds of costume also.

I had the exact same problem on my Telebass. I used northern ash so I wanted to plane it to 1.5" and it did not fit in the planer. I ended up using a belt sander on the back side, leaving the front side alone. I didn't want to put the face out of flat. I alternated going with the grain and then against the grain to keep it from getting tapered on one end. Then I used a hand plane to smooth it up. It came out well, but was alot of work.

You can always try a local cabinet shop. Most places will be happy to do quick pass for you. Your local hardwood dealer is another place. Most of them do millwork.

 

[bassgod76]

His punisher bass is 1.5"

 

[Musiclogic]

I messed with body routing today. I'm really going to have to get a handle on that big bit I purchased. Once started, the bit works well. However initial contact tearout is hard to avoid.

Question: My mahogany blank is 1.75" thick. Is this too thick? If so, I'd be forced to plane it down. The problem is that my Dad's bed planer has a max width of 12". My body will be a bit over 13". With this in mind, I'd be forced to rip the piece in half, plane it down, and Re-glue it. Thoughts?

You can make a planing box, just a platen for your router that rides on 2 rails so you can trim down a body

 

[bassgod76]

I will call a mill shop. That may be the easiest route.

 

[Beej]

The quickest way is to clamp two rails of even height to a flat surface, attach your body with double sided tape between the rails, bolt your router to a smooth piece of MDF or something thin but very stiff about 4 x 24" , and use the router and board gliding over the rails, to thickness the body below. The whole thing can be set up for under 20 bucks in about 15 minutes and can be re-used over and over. This is what musiclogic was describing above. When my sled broke, I set up something like this and have since never bothered repairing my sled...

 

[ThaCoast]

So what's happening with this?

 

[bassgod76]

Sorry, I've been out of town. Dropping my blank off to a mill this week for planing. It's just easier. I also got a 3/16" router bit for the edge of the front. Pics to post tonight.

 

[bassgod76]

I'm back and ready to continue.
Tonight I tried out my new router bit for the edge bevel on my pine tester. Your thoughts?

 

[Corey Y]

Are you using an ovolo profile bit for that specific effect or were you planning on smoothing out the roundover? You can use a plain roundover bit and set it up for a nearly seamless transition.

 

[bassgod76]

Are you using an ovolo profile bit for that specific effect or were you planning on smoothing out the roundover? You can use a plain roundover bit and set it up for a nearly seamless transition.

See page 24 of this thread. Around post 477, we talk about the edge/bevel.

 

[Corey Y]

See page 24 of this thread. Around post 477, we talk about the edge/bevel.

Ohhhhhh gotcha, my mistake.

 

[SGD Lutherie]

I'm back and ready to continue.
Tonight I tried out my new router bit for the edge bevel on my pine tester. Your thoughts?

Is that a regular round over bit?

If it is, you have it adjusted too low. Pull it up a little and you won't have that shelf it's making.

 

[bassgod76]

I used a roundover bit that has a slight overhang by the bearing to allow that shelving effect.
Look at the picture on the far right. It looks like some sort of shelving was done.