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General questions about Fretless conversions

Chupa

Guest
May 3, 2018
12
6
Hello all first post. I'm back in the bass fold after many years of switching to guitar. I have a German Hofner Beatle bass and a CIJ Mustang bass. I'm interested in a fretless, but I've only been playing shortscales, so my main focus has been buying another Mustang Bass probably the PJ and having it defretted.

Is this a bad idea? I want a Fender so it's either the Mustang conversion or getting a Jazz. I have a tech who's done good work on my guitar and said he's done many conversions so I figured this wouldn't be a big deal. But I want to check here to get peoples thoughts. Are conversions to be avoided? What sort of finish should I demand if I get this done? I live in Arizona, any issues with that over the long run? Just trying to cover as much ground as possible before I take the dive.

If I'm forced to go long scale I may just save up for the Jaco bass since I've wanted one since I was 14, but my main bass is now a Mustang so I figured stick with the shortscales and save some money too.
 
Welcome to TalkBass.

Members do that often enough here that it is a frequent topic of conversation. Many try to do the conversation themselves; due to both the challenge and cost. Probably the most cost effective way is to get a Squire fretless; it's not a Fender but it's very, very close.
Squier Vintage Modified Jazz Bass - 3-Color Sunburst, Fretless
 
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Since you want the short scale mustang and know you like it, I think it’s not a bad idea. When you think about it, removing th frets and filling the slots with say wood strips is very similar to what a luthier would do if they were making a fretless from scratch except they just saw the slots instead of removing frets and sawing.

Arizona is similar to Calgary I suppose: dry dry dry. I haven’t had any problems but I filled my slots with wood filler (for shame!!) . I could justify that cause I got the bass for $50. A professional job would certainly give more “mwah”
 
Hello all first post. I'm back in the bass fold after many years of switching to guitar. I have a German Hofner Beatle bass and a CIJ Mustang bass. I'm interested in a fretless, but I've only been playing shortscales, so my main focus has been buying another Mustang Bass probably the PJ and having it defretted.

Is this a bad idea? I want a Fender so it's either the Mustang conversion or getting a Jazz. I have a tech who's done good work on my guitar and said he's done many conversions so I figured this wouldn't be a big deal. But I want to check here to get peoples thoughts. Are conversions to be avoided? What sort of finish should I demand if I get this done? I live in Arizona, any issues with that over the long run? Just trying to cover as much ground as possible before I take the dive.

If I'm forced to go long scale I may just save up for the Jaco bass since I've wanted one since I was 14, but my main bass is now a Mustang so I figured stick with the shortscales and save some money too.
I would say if the bass is worth anything, which I'm guessing it is don't do it. You may well come to regret it down the road. I am in the process of having my 62 P Bass neck which was professionally "de-fretted" back int he 80's put back as close to original as I can. [costly]
 
If I were you, I'd be asking for epoxy as both the fret filler and finish over the fingerboard - that'll give you a nice hard finish, which will enhance the mwah that you get.
 
A hard poly or epoxy finish is definitely brighter than bare wood. I have a Warmouth fretless Jazz parts bass with a rosewood FB I had Pedulla do a finish on, same stuff they use on their Buzz basses, and its hard as hell. The difference in tone was immediate. I think they called it "diamondkote" or some such, and the name fits. I've had it for 30 years and it barely shows any string wear. Roundwounds will chew up a bare wood board pretty quick, but it's a mellower tone, I guess that's the tradeoff. Have you looked around for an aftermarket neck that will fit a Mustang? Might be cool to have a fretted and fretless neck you could swap out as the whim dictates. I'm sure you could get one on Stratosphere, but it won't be cheap. If you do opt for a conversion, I'd do a lined fretless with maple inlays, the plastic inlays on the Squire VM Fretless have developed a reputation for getting raised with respect to the board, though I haven't seen on with that problem personally. Makes sense, as plastic and wood don't expand/contract at the same rate.
 
We disagree, but that's part of the fun in life. To me, a wood fingerboard (I've had a few) is dull and lifeless.

It depends on what sound you’re going for. I actually like unfinished rosewood for country because it cuts through less. I do wish I could get more mwah for ballads though so I would probably be better off with an epoxied board and just adjusting the tone knob and pickup balance as desired.
 
Does this being a mustang bass impact the decision at all

Not if it's a new one. No collector value there.

I've done this, and doing it RIGHT is a fair amount of work. Anyone can do a hack job, but making it look great and play well takes time and effort. I'd estimate minimum 10 hours for someone with experience and who gives you a good result.

There are plenty of discussions about how to DIY, but if any of them you read contain the word "pliers", immediately discard that suggestion and find a different procedure.
 
Well I pulled the trigger and bought a Mustang PJ. So there is no turning back now. I toiled over this because my main bass was already a Mustang, but a longscale fretless would have been easier to acquire. I don't even own a long scale at this point. Anyways, hopefully it turns out well.
 
Well I pulled the trigger and bought a Mustang PJ. So there is no turning back now. I toiled over this because my main bass was already a Mustang, but a longscale fretless would have been easier to acquire. I don't even own a long scale at this point. Anyways, hopefully it turns out well.
Expensive way to go, but good luck with the defret. I hope you enjoy it.
 
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