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Double Bass General questions....yes, I checked the stickies first

Warpeg

Warpeg

Jun 20, 2005
5,428
12,494
Ohio
#1
I recently picked up my first DB and I'm loving it! However, the instrument poses some curiosities to me. I wasn't able to find answers to the below questions in the stickies or through search. Can anyone help me out?

  1. Over time, strings will stretch a bit as they constantly go flat, get tuned, repeat. Won't this action on all four strings eventually start causing the bridge to angle toward the neck, as the bridge is not fixed in place? If this is the case, can someone point me in the direction of knowing how to "reset" the bridge once this happens?
  2. If, for whatever reason, I find that the bridge has someone been knocked out of place. How can I put it back where it should be? My bass currently measures a nut-to-bridge scale length of 42.5". Is it as simple as just measuring for the proper distance and making sure that the bridge remains vertical? Are there any bridge angles that need to be maintained?
  3. String replacement - Is it fair to assume that only one string should be replaced at a time instead of removing all the strings at once?
  4. String height - I have an adjustable bridge, but I'm well aware that I am not knowledgeable enough to be messing around with it. My string height feels comfortable to me, but are there any kind of standards or guidelines one should follow when it comes to appropriate string height?
 
#2
-As a starting (and generally ending) point, I set the bridge so that the feet are centered on the inner nicks on the f holes. Note that the outer nicks are generally above the inners. The bridge should be centered between the f holes. If you have an adjustable bridge, the height of each adjuster will affect not only the string height but the side to side alignment on the fingerboard.
-Yes, the top of the bridge will tend to move toward the nut when tuning up. I gently push it toward the tailpiece. A properly cut bridge will have the angle of the feet to the tailpiece side near 90 degrees, more or less. Thus, maintain that angle from the back of the bridge to the top on the tailpiece side.
-Not all bridges are equal. Assuming yours isn't bowed, pay attention to this and it will last much longer.
-It's not a bad idea to take a new measurement of the string length, after doing the above. Check it occasionally.
-Strings should be changed one or two at a time. Keeping the pegbox neat sometimes complicates this but it's best to keep the bridge and soundpost in place. A short post will sometimes fall without tension on the top.
-String height is a personal thing. I like 5mm G and 9mm E as suitable for most players I see.
 
#3
Greg Clinkingbeard said:
-As a starting (and generally ending) point, I set the bridge so that the feet are centered on the inner nicks on the f holes. Note that the outer nicks are generally above the inners. The bridge should be centered between the f holes. If you have an adjustable bridge, the height of each adjuster will affect not only the string height but the side to side alignment on the fingerboard.
-Yes, the top of the bridge will tend to move toward the nut when tuning up. I gently push it toward the tailpiece. A properly cut bridge will have the angle of the feet to the tailpiece side near 90 degrees, more or less. Thus, maintain that angle from the back of the bridge to the top on the tailpiece side.
-Not all bridges are equal. Assuming yours isn't bowed, pay attention to this and it will last much longer.
-It's not a bad idea to take a new measurement of the string length, after doing the above. Check it occasionally.
-Strings should be changed one or two at a time. Keeping the pegbox neat sometimes complicates this but it's best to keep the bridge and soundpost in place. A short post will sometimes fall without tension on the top.
-String height is a personal thing. I like 5mm G and 9mm E as suitable for most players I see.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Greg. Are your string height measurements taken from the end of fingerboard to the bottom of the string?
 
#7
If you think the bridge is properly placed, run a pencil around each foot to leave a rectangle on the top. Then when (not "if") you bump the bridge into a door frame while going through you can easily see if it's moved and where you need to move it back to.

Removing the pencil marks is just a matter of licking your fingertip and rubbing.
 

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